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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-04-2003, 08:17 PM   #3556
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I was going to take a speed controler out of one of my TC's and was not sure what one I should use,I also have a V12 GM,I was running an LRP 7.1 in my 12L3 but it is a bit on the big side and I wanted to down size my radio gear on my CRC,The track I race at all they run is stock,heck I cant even talk anyone into running 19 turn.. I was even thinking about using an LRP sport..just not to sure on that one.
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Old 08-04-2003, 08:31 PM   #3557
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I think taking the Quantum Comp out of one of your touring cars is your best bet. The quantum sport would be fine for stock though. But if you have the quantum comp too, it would probably do a better job.
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Old 08-05-2003, 11:55 AM   #3558
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I strongly encourage LRP Quantum Competition users to either utilize a 5 cell receiver pack or a large capacitor with this speedo. It has worked for me. I use the capacitor, 1000 microfarad @ 35VDC, when running stock motors and the 5 cell battery pack with modified motors. When using the receiver pack, I only use the switch on the pack to activate the system.

The receiver pack ensures enough voltage in the speedo, the receiver and servo for proper operation. The capacitor holds enough voltage during heavy acceleration to help the same 3 components operate with glitching. Radio interference on 4 cells is difficult to contain.

The next thing regarding inter-car radio interference is to locate the negative wire to the speedo from the main battery as far away from the radio antenna as you can. Also, make that wire as short as possible.
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Old 08-05-2003, 12:10 PM   #3559
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How close are your 12th scales to the weight limits for major races? (I am at work so you will have to forgive the lack of any actual numbers) I was thinking back to the last large race I was at... (NORRCA carpet something or other)... I recall my 12th scaler being well over weight. I was running a 12L3 at the time. But I remember being heavy enough that I could not even imagine what I would need to do to get down to the limit. The guy next to me had the similiar issue and was running a CarpetKnife. So my question to you guys out there is... what are the running weights of your cars and do you have trouble getting down to the weight limits at big races? If everyone has this problem, I wont worry about it. But if you can get your car that light, fill me in on some of the stuff you guys do to them. I should be receiving my speedmerchant soon for the fall season and I would like to be as light as possible
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Old 08-05-2003, 05:41 PM   #3560
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My CK is about 3 oz over last time I was teched. I have changed speedo's since then.

On the battery thing, I saw a nice post about adding ONE AAA battery to your system so a full 6 volts gets to the reciever with out the weight or trouble of a rechargable 5 cell pack.

Hook the - of the AAA to in series to the + side of the pack and the + side to the + side of the reciever. Leave the Speedo switch off and you have 6 volts on a 4 cell system. 4.8 + 1.5 = 6.3 This will help your servo go faster (If you need that) and reciever run on a full 6 volts which will help reception a lot especially at long distances when you floor it.

I hope this helps
David Root
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Old 08-05-2003, 05:49 PM   #3561
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Does anyone know what the ROAR legal minimum weight limit is? I'm just wondering how much over weight my CK is. One thing you can do for keeping your car light, is to get a light weight body. And also not to do a thick coat of paint. If you can stand to have your car one color, than do a one color paint job if you want the lightest body. Silver, black, and red all cover well so you won't need a lot of coats to cover well.
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Old 08-05-2003, 07:18 PM   #3562
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Default 29 Oz.

Where I race, its 29 oz mimimum and 1/8 ground clearance. they have a scale and a 1/8 rod they run under the car to make sure you are within the limits.

How is the CRC going DX6?
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Old 08-05-2003, 08:24 PM   #3563
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ROAR made a mistake in this year's rulebook reguarding 12th scale weight (as well as some other things that i wont go into). they converted from oz to grams incorrectly so its 711g, however it should be 811g or close to that. my car was 830 at the paved nats (w/ the 2003 rulebook) while at the carpet nats a few months prior with the same exact chassis and electronics was only an OZ overweight (the 2002 was used at the 2003 carpet nats since the 03 rulebook wasnt out yet, go figure, lol). however i was told that ROAR was not going to change it, however 2003 is basically over for ROAR sanctioned 12th scale races, except for regionals, so it should not be a big deal.

A lightweight body is a must for 12th scale, however ontop of that... run a quantom esc (or a keyence or GM), and old style front end and stock AE bulkheads for all cars that apply. My Rev. 3 has the dress kit, foam bumper, alum braces for the old style front end and IRS rear bulkheads, so its not exactly on a diet, lol, however its not that much over to really make a difference.
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Old 08-05-2003, 08:38 PM   #3564
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Default Re: 29 Oz.

Quote:
Originally posted by David Root
Where I race, its 29 oz mimimum and 1/8 ground clearance. they have a scale and a 1/8 rod they run under the car to make sure you are within the limits.

How is the CRC going DX6?
I love this car. It's so much fun to drive, and its so quick. I haven't been able to race against anyone else at my track, so I've just been practicing with it. But I'll be able to race with it tomorrow probably. Or atleast practice with some other 1/12th scale cars. Even if a bunch of people at my track say that the Carpet Knife isn't any good. I still like it, and how could it not be good if its won big races? But most of the things people say, they are just kidding around.
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Old 08-05-2003, 09:24 PM   #3565
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How does a tri shock set up compare to a single shock set up???
It seems that a tri shock set up would stiffen up the car, with less side to side flexing, but if you didnt have a little flexing wouldnt you lose some traction? And i dont know if this is a big deal, but wouldnt the extra 2 shocks add a considerable amput of weight?? My switch blade has the ability for a tri shock set up, and am wondering if there are any benafits.

thanks
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Old 08-05-2003, 09:29 PM   #3566
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Are you asking me that question switch blade? Because the carpet knife doest have three shocks. only one and damper tubes.
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Old 08-05-2003, 09:37 PM   #3567
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no.......the question wasnt for a perticular person i just am asking in general........sorry i guess i didnt specify
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Old 08-05-2003, 10:00 PM   #3568
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Ok, thanks for clearing that up. I think the only time someone would use the 3 shocks on a 1/12th scale would be on an oval car.
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Old 08-06-2003, 04:09 AM   #3569
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Default Carpet Knife has 3 shocks

The damper tubes are shocks, just no coil springs on (or in) them. The springs are on the sides of the chasis. BASICLY it is a tri shock car because it has NO T-Bar.
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Old 08-06-2003, 04:20 AM   #3570
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And is better..
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