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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-27-2011, 01:26 AM   #35671
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hey racinJ - been trying to register on rcracechat.com but everything i've tried re 'RC' question box is being rejected help pls
Sorry Mikey. I registered with the RCChat website over a year ago and didn't have any issues. Not sure what may be the issue.
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Old 03-27-2011, 02:20 AM   #35672
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Hey RacinJ, TF is no longer with CH, so I wouldn't plan on a great job of track prep next week. I would plan for the worst and be happily surprized if it turns out I'm wrong.
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Old 03-27-2011, 12:41 PM   #35673
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Hi guys, ran my own designed Corally based chassis for the first time last weekend, it went OK, but needed to 'tweak' a couple of the design features to make it better. Anyway, done that now so here's a couple of pics:





The idea is that I can try out the original Corally front end, as well as the CRC and AE front ends too. I can also try out the original Corally wheels / tyres or 'US' spec wheels / tyres also.

I will let you know how it goes! Cheers, Chris.
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:37 AM   #35674
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Default 12th scale help

Hi guys

haven't run 12th in a while and staring again and am a little lost as to where i should start in terms of roll outs, could anyone help with a roll out for boosted 10.5 on large asphalt track with fairly technical but flowing infield running 1s ?

tx in advance
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Old 03-28-2011, 02:42 AM   #35675
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Chris,

The design in the top pic, is pretty tricky to setup.
As you probably allready knew.
I found, that when running on carpet, the old(er) skool front beam front end will work better and is way easier to setup.

I know, I know...not to many setup options but when running it for a while, the laptimes are flatter and the end result faster.

Maybe another thing to try in the future
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:09 AM   #35676
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Hi guys

haven't run 12th in a while and staring again and am a little lost as to where i should start in terms of roll outs, could anyone help with a roll out for boosted 10.5 on large asphalt track with fairly technical but flowing infield running 1s ?

tx in advance
Start around 60mm. I like about 67 but you have to run less boost to pull it. Lap times are better for it though.
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:25 AM   #35677
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Wow 60 mm damn ok ! Tx will take this info over to the tekin thread and see what settings the guys suggest
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Old 03-28-2011, 08:26 PM   #35678
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Sorry Mikey. I registered with the RCChat website over a year ago and didn't have any issues. Not sure what may be the issue.
Props on the avatar RacinJ. That's my favorite race car EVER....
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:04 PM   #35679
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Ian,
Grand Finale at The Gate this weekend, should be a good one.

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Old 03-28-2011, 10:14 PM   #35680
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Ian,
Grand Finale at The Gate this weekend, should be a good one.

chuck
Dad and I are working out the details. Looking about 90% sure right now Chuck.......
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Old 03-29-2011, 05:01 AM   #35681
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Ran my R12 with a HW 1S the other day (4.0T comp2 SP motor)... was geared to a 37mm roll-out (88/24, 43mm wheels). 119_MOD FW was tuned down (DRRS =1, no boot, no timing). Kit ran well and was plenty quick... however, after running the car for about 5mins, the ESC was hot to the touch (no heatsink and fan due to the low bodyshell). The motor was warm but i could hold my finger on it without getting burned....

just want to know if i'm over geared or under geared? or is it normal to have the esc run very hot (wasn't able to temp it though).

Any help would be appreciated.

thanks!
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Old 03-29-2011, 06:18 AM   #35682
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Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
Ran my R12 with a HW 1S the other day (4.0T comp2 SP motor)... was geared to a 37mm roll-out (88/24, 43mm wheels). 119_MOD FW was tuned down (DRRS =1, no boot, no timing). Kit ran well and was plenty quick... however, after running the car for about 5mins, the ESC was hot to the touch (no heatsink and fan due to the low bodyshell). The motor was warm but i could hold my finger on it without getting burned....

just want to know if i'm over geared or under geared? or is it normal to have the esc run very hot (wasn't able to temp it though).

Any help would be appreciated.

thanks!

I have only run about 5 or 6 packs in a mod 12th recently, but hot esc and cooler motor has been my experience too with an RS Pro.
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Old 03-29-2011, 06:40 AM   #35683
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Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
Ran my R12 with a HW 1S the other day (4.0T comp2 SP motor)... was geared to a 37mm roll-out (88/24, 43mm wheels). 119_MOD FW was tuned down (DRRS =1, no boot, no timing). Kit ran well and was plenty quick... however, after running the car for about 5mins, the ESC was hot to the touch (no heatsink and fan due to the low bodyshell). The motor was warm but i could hold my finger on it without getting burned....

just want to know if i'm over geared or under geared? or is it normal to have the esc run very hot (wasn't able to temp it though).

Any help would be appreciated.

thanks!
I usually run 96/23
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:00 AM   #35684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
Ran my R12 with a HW 1S the other day (4.0T comp2 SP motor)... was geared to a 37mm roll-out (88/24, 43mm wheels). 119_MOD FW was tuned down (DRRS =1, no boot, no timing). Kit ran well and was plenty quick... however, after running the car for about 5mins, the ESC was hot to the touch (no heatsink and fan due to the low bodyshell). The motor was warm but i could hold my finger on it without getting burned....

just want to know if i'm over geared or under geared? or is it normal to have the esc run very hot (wasn't able to temp it though).

Any help would be appreciated.

thanks!
My 12R5 has a MurfDogg 4t with a Tekin RS (not RS Pro) at 42 roll in Dual Mode.
Endbell at zero deg.
Motor and esc after 8mins never over 100f
Tekin internal temp light at 1st mark.
It is very smooth and has tons of rip.

This is on Hi-Bite carpet 90x45 track.
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:07 AM   #35685
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Ian, Hope you and your dad can make it. Want to talk to you about The Halloween Classic and The Indoor Champs.
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