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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-09-2011, 11:44 PM   #35611
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I have ran the Losi 4.8 battery that they use for the Mico-t and Micro DS for a rx pack last year. It worked for awhile till I the batteries started to not take a charge or the wiring on the battery got bad. I have tried a booster that most the guys I know ran and it worked ever since then. I hav a spare just in case it goes out, but so far so good, it has not gone bad yet.
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Old 03-10-2011, 02:41 AM   #35612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Boosters can work just fine in most applications. However they can also fail as can anything else electronic.

We still feel that a rx pack is the right answer for most people. Boosters have to draw power from the 1s pack to make their BEC power. Understand that this is the same "supply" power being used by the motor/esc.

Because of this under loads the voltage can and does bounce all over the place. Good bosters can handle this, but others cannot. This bounce is then passed right along to the radio system,servo,etc. This is how you can miss laps with your p/t, have a radio hit or DSM brown out,etc.

The rx packs setups do not do this because they're on a steady supply that the rx pack is providing.

Food for thought.
as you said, a good booster can handle changing input voltages and still give a steady output voltage.

Then your remark about the power being drawn from your main battery... well, as far as I know, you consume about 80-100mAh during a 8 minutes run. On a 5000mAh Lipo, this is 2% of the capacity. I think you loose more performance from the more heavy receiver packs...

Food for thought
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Old 03-10-2011, 04:24 AM   #35613
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Originally Posted by M7H View Post
as you said, a good booster can handle changing input voltages and still give a steady output voltage.

Then your remark about the power being drawn from your main battery... well, as far as I know, you consume about 80-100mAh during a 8 minutes run. On a 5000mAh Lipo, this is 2% of the capacity. I think you loose more performance from the more heavy receiver packs...

Food for thought
You consume 80-100 mah from the rx pack, a step-up voltage booster is probably using more than that because it is converting 3.7v into 6v. And I could care less about capacity. I'm more concerned with available current to the motor, any additional amp draw on the main pack is amperage that can't reach the motor.

Heavy rx pack? My car with a rx pack comes in at or below the minimum weight. So if I run a lighter booster, I now have to strap weight in my car. This additional ballast I now have to run offers me ZERO performance enhancement, and serves no function other than to bring the car up to weight. The rx pack, on the other hand, ensures that all available power from the main pack can be utilized propelling the car. Since I don't run a regulator, my servo is faster as well. I see these as performance gains.
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Old 03-10-2011, 06:51 AM   #35614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
You consume 80-100 mah from the rx pack, a step-up voltage booster is probably using more than that because it is converting 3.7v into 6v. And I could care less about capacity. I'm more concerned with available current to the motor, any additional amp draw on the main pack is amperage that can't reach the motor.

Heavy rx pack? My car with a rx pack comes in at or below the minimum weight. So if I run a lighter booster, I now have to strap weight in my car. This additional ballast I now have to run offers me ZERO performance enhancement, and serves no function other than to bring the car up to weight. The rx pack, on the other hand, ensures that all available power from the main pack can be utilized propelling the car. Since I don't run a regulator, my servo is faster as well. I see these as performance gains.
It really is a case of personal preference. It is possible to get good results from both.

People like to use a booster because it is fit and forget, nothing to remember to charge. Others do not mind this and want to get the absolute limit out of their cells, so use an RX pack. There is nothing wrong with this.

The one thing to remember though is that if you use a booster get a very good quality one. Far too many people buy the cheap ones and then wonder why they have problems with them. I've been using the same RC Dynamics booster now for over a year, and several Tekin RS software versions without a single problem. It's not cheap but it is about the best it is possible to get. I bought a spare and it has never come out of the packet.

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Old 03-12-2011, 09:29 AM   #35615
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Hey Guys, I started to take Video of our indoor Racing which includes some 10.5 Boosted 1/12th Racing, VTA and Slash classes

Feel free to check it out

www.youtube.com/jdeadman
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Old 03-12-2011, 11:01 AM   #35616
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Just making up my new chassis that I made that uses parts from the Corally SP12X. This one will accept the original Corally front end, plus the AE and CRC front ends too. Looking forward to running it at the last national of this year's series next weekend. Nothing too out of the ordinary, but a couple of ideas that help out a little:





Cheers, Chris.
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Old 03-12-2011, 11:05 AM   #35617
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Hey Guys, I started to take Video of our indoor Racing which includes some 10.5 Boosted 1/12th Racing, VTA and Slash classes

Feel free to check it out

www.youtube.com/jdeadman
What size is your track?
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Old 03-12-2011, 11:19 AM   #35618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
You consume 80-100 mah from the rx pack, a step-up voltage booster is probably using more than that because it is converting 3.7v into 6v. And I could care less about capacity. I'm more concerned with available current to the motor, any additional amp draw on the main pack is amperage that can't reach the motor.

Heavy rx pack? My car with a rx pack comes in at or below the minimum weight. So if I run a lighter booster, I now have to strap weight in my car. This additional ballast I now have to run offers me ZERO performance enhancement, and serves no function other than to bring the car up to weight. The rx pack, on the other hand, ensures that all available power from the main pack can be utilized propelling the car. Since I don't run a regulator, my servo is faster as well. I see these as performance gains.
what rx pack are you using and do you use Velcro to switch them out?
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Old 03-12-2011, 12:45 PM   #35619
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What size is your track?
Really Small Don't know the exact but I would say 50x80' I'll measure on monday night
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Old 03-12-2011, 12:56 PM   #35620
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Just making up my new chassis that I made that uses parts from the Corally SP12X. This one will accept the original Corally front end, plus the AE and CRC front ends too. Looking forward to running it at the last national of this year's series next weekend. Nothing too out of the ordinary, but a couple of ideas that help out a little:





Cheers, Chris.
looks nice mate , who made your chassis and how did you make the CRC front end fit ???

cheeRS Phil
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Old 03-12-2011, 01:04 PM   #35621
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Really SmallI would say 50x80'
Seriously? Small? "Really Small"???!!!

Dude, you need to race on an ACTUALLY "small" track.

Our track is 40 X 65 (slightly more than half the area you describe), and it's a MONSTER compared to our bretheren in Great Falls who race weekly on a track that is 24 X 45...less than half the area of ours.

The track you're describing is a very good-sized indoor track.
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Old 03-12-2011, 01:47 PM   #35622
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Hey all, just starting to get into 12th scale, looking to run in our local 17.5 boosted class. For an avg size indoor carpet track, what's a good starting rollout? I need to order a range of pinions to play around with.
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Old 03-12-2011, 01:54 PM   #35623
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i agree that size would be nice to have close to me.. im at a 25 by 50 size track also running mod were doing 6.5 7.0 laps and stock 6.9to 7.3... you seriously cant blink or lose any thought... and for the guy who says they can see and feel the difference in servo speed.. man you must be a world champ...i have race 1/12 for 15yr and have been sponsored by manybcompany and run noe run for the following below.. and i just switch to the tq booster from a suggestion from eric from ea motorsports and i cand see a diff on a super small track.. act i think you can betterbalance the car out by placing you own weigh were needed
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Old 03-12-2011, 02:18 PM   #35624
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what rx pack are you using and do you use Velcro to switch them out?
The Dynamite 180 mah pack in my 12ther, and My WGT has a Power Push rx pack. Both have worked flawlessly. As cheap as the dynamite's are, I saw no reason to swith them out. Easier to just tape one in each car and be done with it.
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Old 03-12-2011, 02:34 PM   #35625
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i agree that size would be nice to have close to me.. im at a 25 by 50 size track also running mod were doing 6.5 7.0 laps and stock 6.9to 7.3... you seriously cant blink or lose any thought... and for the guy who says they can see and feel the difference in servo speed.. man you must be a world champ...i have race 1/12 for 15yr and have been sponsored by manybcompany and run noe run for the following below.. and i just switch to the tq booster from a suggestion from eric from ea motorsports and i cand see a diff on a super small track.. act i think you can betterbalance the car out by placing you own weigh were needed

My car's balanced 50/50 left to right with the rx pack. And as for feeling the difference in servo speed, I'm not a World Champion, but I've been doing this for 25 years, and made an A-main or two at a few Major events. I'm sponsored by those listed in my sig, and actually used to run for one of your current sponsors too. The difference in speed between the JR and Futaba is not that great, possibly imperceptible. The KO is significantly faster. Try a Futaba 9650, then pull your car in and strap in a KO951, and if you can't tell the difference then something is wrong. At the IIC, Snowbirds, or Cleveland, when the traction is super high, you can feel ANY change, whether it be a minute change in droop settings on the front kingpins, a 5 wt. difference in oil, or servos of different speeds. 12th scale performance at the highest level is determined by fractions of a mm, as well as fractions of a second. Every little bit counts.
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