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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-08-2011, 09:32 AM   #35596
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Quite true, things were different back when we ran 1200 cells . Overall I do think that the booster is easier but I also see the benifits of the rx pack. I guess if I had the time to go to big races I would switch as it could make that very slight difference.
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Old 03-08-2011, 11:27 PM   #35597
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Sneha Natura
Formulation infrastructure is the logical forward integration to provide quality Natural product proprietary formulations in the following segments:

* Antiarthritic
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Old 03-08-2011, 11:29 PM   #35598
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Chondroitin Sulphate, Sodium Potassium, Chondroitin Sulphate India.
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Old 03-09-2011, 07:00 AM   #35599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
And point taken in this regard. I guess as an experienced racer I tend to take these things for granted. I can also tell you though, that I have seen a less experienced racer ruin a speedo because of the wiring involved in running a booster. Of course after we hit the GP3300 era, we didn't have to worry about any of this untill we switched to LIPO.....Hmmmm.
the argument goes both ways i think.

I have see new racers with booster that never even get on track and waste the whole day to find a faulty booster. i ahve seen boosters that work on the bench and when put on the track, the car does not even roll. I have seen boosters that fail and take out rx. the list goes on.

to each his own. i am a EE by education and to me. a battery is a battery, but a booster is a circuit and well, you know when a battery has fails, but to know when a circuit has failed is sometimes black magic
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Old 03-09-2011, 07:42 AM   #35600
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So get yourself a good 1S esc with built in booster, and forget about an external booster or receiver battery...
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Old 03-09-2011, 07:59 AM   #35601
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M7H View Post
So get yourself a good 1S esc with built in booster, and forget about an external booster or receiver battery...
When one of them passes me, I just might do that.
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:29 AM   #35602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
When one of them passes me, I just might do that.
its hard when 99% of them are tekin
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:36 AM   #35603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
When one of them passes me, I just might do that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
its hard when 99% of them are tekin
lol

Hey Randy, Quote of the day!!!
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Old 03-09-2011, 10:20 AM   #35604
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i have always said to BE THE BEST YOU NEED TO BEAT THE BEST
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:18 AM   #35605
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Boosters can work just fine in most applications. However they can also fail as can anything else electronic.

We still feel that a rx pack is the right answer for most people. Boosters have to draw power from the 1s pack to make their BEC power. Understand that this is the same "supply" power being used by the motor/esc.

Because of this under loads the voltage can and does bounce all over the place. Good bosters can handle this, but others cannot. This bounce is then passed right along to the radio system,servo,etc. This is how you can miss laps with your p/t, have a radio hit or DSM brown out,etc.

The rx packs setups do not do this because they're on a steady supply that the rx pack is providing.

Food for thought.
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Old 03-09-2011, 05:56 PM   #35606
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Hi, new to 1/12. Are diffusers and other underchassis aerodynamic aids allowed? I checked th IFMAR rule and could not find info.

Thanks.
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Old 03-09-2011, 06:07 PM   #35607
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I don't believe there are rules against them...but they are not used because the performance gains are off-set by losses in other areas. I know in 1/10th scale pan some manufacturers messed around with it but gave up. In 1/12th there is even less room to make anything work.
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Old 03-09-2011, 06:12 PM   #35608
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Default Novak Smart Booster

Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
Removing the LVC from the Novak booster makes it a non-issue.

Doesn't help make the SmartBoost any smaller though.
How do I remove the LVC from the booster?

Thanks Bob
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Old 03-09-2011, 07:56 PM   #35609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rccartips View Post
Hi, new to 1/12. Are diffusers and other underchassis aerodynamic aids allowed? I checked th IFMAR rule and could not find info.

Thanks.
Several of us experimented with this years ago. You can gain significant down force with this, but the trade off of course is hugely increased drag. Each track has a different balance point where you get the right down force for the least drag, which requires a lot of experimenting to find. Tight tracks reap more benefit than open ones and it's hard to make it crash proof.
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Old 03-09-2011, 10:11 PM   #35610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_square24 View Post
Has anyone tried the Turnigy Voltage Booster that HobbyKing sells?

My rx battery died (took more charge than nominal 220mah capacity even after use) so I wanna try using a booster.

They carry 2 kinds of boosters, one is by Turnigy (no shrink wrap) and the other with the black shrink wrap on.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=11784

Do you just hook one end up to the battery side and the other end to the BATT port on the RX?

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks!
I switched over to one of these at the Snowbirds this year to try it (mainly to save weight versus the rec pack) and it has worked fine thus far. I ran it there most of the week, here at home a few runs and a full weekend at the Grand Slam race and it was fine there too. As long as I dont have any issues with failures I wont be going back to a receiver pack!

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