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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-06-2011, 10:31 AM   #35581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RevMaxx View Post
if u use voltage booster 3.7V-6V, how many AMPs is needed?
It depends on the loaded at the time of the servo. My booster is capable of 2amps, and I havent had any issues. The TQ Hobbies booster can do 3 Amps.

Shawn.
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Old 03-06-2011, 10:05 PM   #35582
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Congrats to Simo Ahoniemi and Hupo Honigl for their Euro Champs wins in Montbrison, France! Way to go TEAM CRC........
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Old 03-07-2011, 08:57 AM   #35583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
Not sure it is that much, as when I use a receiver pack, I normally put back 300 - 400ma. Also look at the size of the wires to the servo and esc and they are very small so it will not flow many amps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
rx pack imo is still the only way to go. Why run something that steps existing voltage, rather than something that leaves all available voltage for the motor? I still don't understand the advantage of boosters, other than alleviating the need to charge an RX pack.........
Cypress, what are you normally drawing out of the rx pack? I normally pulled about 70-80mah with the tekin switch off. Is that what guys are normally pulling? And if so would that really effect anything substantial if going with the booster?

Grenade, do you usually leave the tekin switch turned on while running to
pull 300-400mah out?
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:02 AM   #35584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIITA View Post
Cypress, what are you normally drawing out of the rx pack? I normally pulled about 70-80mah with the tekin switch off. Is that what guys are normally pulling? And if so would that really effect anything substantial if going with the booster?

Grenade, do you usually leave the tekin switch turned on while running to
pull 300-400mah out?
Yes, switch is on for the 1/12 scale on an 8 min run.

My car is the same speed, laps ....... with the booster and since I have one ESC that has never seen a receiver pack and not failed, think it is a very safe way to go.

I have watched some of my life packs peak at up to 7.4 volts and believe that is why I've had the failures that I have had. So if I were to run a receiver pack (Lipo or LiFe) I would also run a voltage regulator (or diode's) to reduce it.
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:41 AM   #35585
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I guess there are 2 camps on this subject.

fwiw.
I've been running the TQ Booster for about a year and a half now.
Spent a day testing with a life rec pack, which used an average of 70ma per 8 min run.
Going back and forth between rec pack and booster, saw no difference in laptimes, or feel.
This was with a Tekin RS 13.5 boosted. Also on occasion with a 6.5 boosted.

Perhaps my Futaba BL-Digital servo is not as hungry as some servos ?
And Servo speed is more than enough for sure.
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Old 03-07-2011, 01:02 PM   #35586
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Anyone interested an older Corally sp-12g2? Also, I still have the rc12L club racer (graphite), good old time.
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Old 03-07-2011, 01:51 PM   #35587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
rx pack imo is still the only way to go. Why run something that steps existing voltage, rather than something that leaves all available voltage for the motor? I still don't understand the advantage of boosters, other than alleviating the need to charge an RX pack.........
This past weekend we had a new racer show up ready to race his new car with a rec pack. He turns on the car and humm nothing to the rear wheels, confused the first question asked is the rec pack charged. Yes he says but still no motor, so we pulg in the hotwire to check all the settings. Everything is ok and should be working fine, after ten minutes of fustration he puts the rec pack on the charger only to find that the pack was not charged as he thought it was . As a result of all this he missed his heat, now while you as an experienced racer might not make this mistake had he been using a booster he would not have missed his heat. This is just a real example of an advantage to using the booster
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:04 PM   #35588
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where can i get ride height spacers in the US
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:12 PM   #35589
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Here you go Jamie
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7718842
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:15 PM   #35590
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thank chris,i found some from IRS as well
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:16 PM   #35591
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Yea but I like the CRC ones better as you dont have to take the screws all the way out.
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Old 03-07-2011, 03:22 PM   #35592
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i was looking at that to
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Old 03-07-2011, 04:56 PM   #35593
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
where can i get ride height spacers in the US
Another Option:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...im-Kit-10L-CRC
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Old 03-08-2011, 12:41 AM   #35594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIITA View Post
Cypress, what are you normally drawing out of the rx pack? I normally pulled about 70-80mah with the tekin switch off. Is that what guys are normally pulling? And if so would that really effect anything substantial if going with the booster?

Grenade, do you usually leave the tekin switch turned on while running to
pull 300-400mah out?
I always run switch off, since in 17.5 or 13.5, you never get anywhere near the cutoff. I usually pull 50-70 mah out of the pack. That's out of the pack, but I would assume that you'd need to pull more current from the main pack to convert up to 6v, than you'd take out of 7.4v rx pack. I guess since I've been doing this since the dark days of 1200mah batteries, I tend to lean toward the conservative in the realm of power delivery. I've always been told by the fast crowd I run with that ANY current not available for the motor in a SPEC motor class is power wasted.

I have two full seasons on one RS PRO, one 9650 servo and one 7.4 rx pack. I know this isn't the recommended set-up as Tekin put up a thread about that, but I have yet to experience a single problem, (knock on wood).
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Old 03-08-2011, 12:47 AM   #35595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
This past weekend we had a new racer show up ready to race his new car with a rec pack. He turns on the car and humm nothing to the rear wheels, confused the first question asked is the rec pack charged. Yes he says but still no motor, so we pulg in the hotwire to check all the settings. Everything is ok and should be working fine, after ten minutes of fustration he puts the rec pack on the charger only to find that the pack was not charged as he thought it was . As a result of all this he missed his heat, now while you as an experienced racer might not make this mistake had he been using a booster he would not have missed his heat. This is just a real example of an advantage to using the booster


And point taken in this regard. I guess as an experienced racer I tend to take these things for granted. I can also tell you though, that I have seen a less experienced racer ruin a speedo because of the wiring involved in running a booster. Of course after we hit the GP3300 era, we didn't have to worry about any of this untill we switched to LIPO.....Hmmmm.
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