R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-02-2011, 08:56 PM   #35566
avs
Tech Master
 
avs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,144
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CHRIS CHAVEZ View Post
Hello, I have an Associated 12R5.1 that i'm having a problem with proper servo mounting. My Ko Propo 949 servo does not lay flat on the chassis. There appears to be about a 1.5mm gap between the chassis and servo. Do any of you guys have this problem? I really don't want to Shoo Goo my $110 servo to the chassis. So have any of you guys come up with any other solutions that doesn't require gluing direct to the chassis?

Thanks, Chris
hey Chris, is there a problem with the servo mounts? the 12r5 comes with aluminum mounts that seem to work fine. i have an extra pair if you want to try them.

by the way, thanks for making the Tommy's run last sunday!
__________________
Tony Shimko
avs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2011, 09:05 PM   #35567
Tech Fanatic
 
CHRIS CHAVEZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Weekend Warrior
Posts: 962
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PHI/BMI racer View Post
Don't worry if its not completely flat, I had same thing with a touring car and some servos... Just put some double sided tape under the servo to take up any impact or vibrations... worked great on the touring...
Thanks for the info.
Quote:
Originally Posted by avs View Post
hey Chris, is there a problem with the servo mounts? the 12r5 comes with aluminum mounts that seem to work fine. i have an extra pair if you want to try them.

by the way, thanks for making the Tommy's run last sunday!
Awesome, i'll be at TQ this Saturday and Sunday. see you there.
Thank you, Chris
__________________
"Dirt is for growing Potatoes"
TQ RC Racing
CHRIS CHAVEZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2011, 01:18 AM   #35568
Tech Addict
 
rc_square24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 674
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Has anyone tried the Turnigy Voltage Booster that HobbyKing sells?

My rx battery died (took more charge than nominal 220mah capacity even after use) so I wanna try using a booster.

They carry 2 kinds of boosters, one is by Turnigy (no shrink wrap) and the other with the black shrink wrap on.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=11784

Do you just hook one end up to the battery side and the other end to the BATT port on the RX?

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks!
rc_square24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2011, 01:50 AM   #35569
Tech Fanatic
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Poland, Warsaw
Posts: 772
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_square24 View Post
Has anyone tried the Turnigy Voltage Booster that HobbyKing sells?

My rx battery died (took more charge than nominal 220mah capacity even after use) so I wanna try using a booster.

They carry 2 kinds of boosters, one is by Turnigy (no shrink wrap) and the other with the black shrink wrap on.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=11784

Do you just hook one end up to the battery side and the other end to the BATT port on the RX?

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi!

I use this black shrink version, it gives 5V without problems in my pan car 200mm.

But for E12 I switch to novak, 6V is better then 5V

Regards!
m
__________________
Michal Abramowicz
http://abram.eu.org/gear_tc6.php
My setups there -> http://www.rc-setups.com
TC6!, TC5R, 12L4, 12R5.1, 10L2, 10R5, RC8T_CE_EL custom F1 chassis
http://www.wgtshop.com/
M.Abramowicz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2011, 08:12 AM   #35570
Tech Lord
 
wingracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12,633
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Hi!

I use this black shrink version, it gives 5V without problems in my pan car 200mm.

But for E12 I switch to novak, 6V is better then 5V

Regards!
m
Yeah but there seem to be some issues with Novak boosters with Tekin speedos. Some get it to work, some don't.
__________________
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
Team Shepherd USA
www.ashfordhobby.com
wingracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2011, 08:16 AM   #35571
Tech Master
 
HarryLeach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Hampton, VA, USA
Posts: 1,596
Send a message via AIM to HarryLeach
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Yeah but there seem to be some issues with Novak boosters with Tekin speedos. Some get it to work, some don't.
Removing the LVC from the Novak booster makes it a non-issue.

Doesn't help make the SmartBoost any smaller though.
__________________
Privateer racing lots of stuff.
Remember kids, racing isn't fair!
HarryLeach is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2011, 01:19 PM   #35572
Tech Elite
 
chris moore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phx AZ
Posts: 3,658
Trader Rating: 85 (99%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_square24 View Post
Has anyone tried the Turnigy Voltage Booster that HobbyKing sells?

My rx battery died (took more charge than nominal 220mah capacity even after use) so I wanna try using a booster.

They carry 2 kinds of boosters, one is by Turnigy (no shrink wrap) and the other with the black shrink wrap on.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=11784

Do you just hook one end up to the battery side and the other end to the BATT port on the RX?

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks!
I have used/use the shrinkwraped one with both a Tekin RS and Novak GTB without any issues. With a Novak esc you simply plug the esc into one end of the booster and the othre end of the booster you plug into the receiver. With the Tekin you have to fasion two wires for the pos and neg of the booster to the esc, the third terminal is not used.
__________________
Sponsered by:

CMDezigns Paint Works
https://www.facebook.com/pages/CM-Dezigns/259989190822177?ref=hl
chris moore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2011, 03:24 PM   #35573
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,920
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Hi!

I use this black shrink version, it gives 5V without problems in my pan car 200mm.

But for E12 I switch to novak, 6V is better then 5V

Regards!
m
Try the Corally Vboost

i have used mine all winter and not a single problem , puts out a nice stable 6v
sidecarphil1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2011, 05:59 PM   #35574
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 201
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
Try the Corally Vboost

i have used mine all winter and not a single problem , puts out a nice stable 6v
do you have a link for that? I can't seem to find it

-Hayden
__________________
Dirt Cheap R/C
Express Motorsports
Boca Bearings
shaggy11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2011, 08:56 PM   #35575
Tech Adept
 
speed-e's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 198
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_square24 View Post
Has anyone tried the Turnigy Voltage Booster that HobbyKing sells?
I have and it works fine. Although you will want to splurge and put an inch of heat shrink on it.
__________________
Mugen Seiki
MIP
Contrast Neo 2.5 HR, Neo X
V-Speed Engines
RadioPost
speed-e is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2011, 03:55 AM   #35576
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

rx pack imo is still the only way to go. Why run something that steps existing voltage, rather than something that leaves all available voltage for the motor? I still don't understand the advantage of boosters, other than alleviating the need to charge an RX pack.........
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2011, 10:13 AM   #35577
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,920
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shaggy11 View Post
do you have a link for that? I can't seem to find it

-Hayden
http://www.bmtuning.nl/261-Corally-1....7V-LiPos.html
sidecarphil1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2011, 10:21 AM   #35578
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 201
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

awesome, thank you
__________________
Dirt Cheap R/C
Express Motorsports
Boca Bearings
shaggy11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2011, 08:52 AM   #35579
Tech Addict
 
RevMaxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Cebu
Posts: 687
Send a message via MSN to RevMaxx
Default

if u use voltage booster 3.7V-6V, how many AMPs is needed?
RevMaxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2011, 09:02 AM   #35580
Tech Elite
 
Grenade10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 4,667
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RevMaxx View Post
if u use voltage booster 3.7V-6V, how many AMPs is needed?
Not sure it is that much, as when I use a receiver pack, I normally put back 300 - 400ma. Also look at the size of the wires to the servo and esc and they are very small so it will not flow many amps.
__________________
Darkside, Sweep, BSR, Fantom, IGT Hobbies and IGT8
Byrons Fuel, ProtoForm Bodies & Futaba Radio Gear by Choice
Founding Member of CORRC .... 5280raceway
www.darksidems.com www.igthobbies.com www.IGT8.com
Grenade10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:37 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0