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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-25-2011, 07:11 AM   #35536
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Thanks for all the replies; I'll definitely pick up one of the three mentioned here.
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Old 02-25-2011, 07:18 AM   #35537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
The 9650 doesn't have metal gears. It makes no difference, as it is a KILLER 12th scale servo. I have two seasons on mine, still centers perfectly, and is more than strong and fast enough. I have in the past, used the JR3650, and the KO 951.

My current set-up utilizes a 2s lipo rx pack. I find the lighter and slightly slower Futaba to suit my driving and car set-up better than the KO. I haven't tried a 3650 on 2s power, but I know others that have and say it works very nicely.

These are the ONLY three currently available servos I'd consider putting in a 12th scale car.
HKS makes a metal gear servo that is physically identical to the futaba 9650. the 9650 with these replacement gears is popular for cyclic control on 500 size helicopters.
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Old 02-25-2011, 07:23 AM   #35538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avs View Post
HKS makes a metal gear servo that is physically identical to the futaba 9650. the 9650 with these replacement gears is popular for cyclic control on 500 size helicopters.
Interesting but the Kimbrough servo savers we almost all use are so soft that I have never seen a 1/12th break a servo gear. Burn some up yes but never break.

I actually wish they would make a stiffer one.
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Old 02-25-2011, 07:30 AM   #35539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Interesting but the Kimbrough servo savers we almost all use are so soft that I have never seen a 1/12th break a servo gear. Burn some up yes but never break.

I actually wish they would make a stiffer one.
run the medium servo saver. alot have gone to the medium because it seams to hold better and last longer
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Old 02-25-2011, 07:41 AM   #35540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Interesting but the Kimbrough servo savers we almost all use are so soft that I have never seen a 1/12th break a servo gear. Burn some up yes but never break.

I actually wish they would make a stiffer one.
agreed, although i did switch out the gearset to try reduce the lash between the servosaver and output splines. the metal output splines were just a little tighter fit. i didn't notice a performance benefit, but it did increase peace of mind.

that was with the small white futaba specific model, i have since started using the medium general purpose model. it centers better but it needs some reliefs ground to fit in the short radius holes. (the short holes are very close to the middle holes of the small servo)
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Old 02-25-2011, 07:55 AM   #35541
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One thing to note is, the ko I believe is the only one that is cert to run on a 2s lipo rx pack. But I have seen guys run the Futaba one for years with no prob
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Old 02-28-2011, 04:37 PM   #35542
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Awhile back I had a link to a site that was like a quick guide to what the different adjustments in 1/12th did like raising the shock or moving the mount forward...I'm looking to find that or another one that I can use as a quick reference guide. Anyone know which one I am referring to? Not Mark Payne's blog...as good as it is it is a bit too long and detailed for what I am looking for.
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Old 02-28-2011, 04:54 PM   #35543
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Here it is.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Rich Chang 1-12 troubleshooting-tips.pdf (13.4 KB, 380 views)
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:01 PM   #35544
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And, while Rich Chang's guide above seems widely considered THE 1/12 guide (I've had a laminated copy in my race kit for several years now) here's another one I picked up somewhere. It comes at the "challenge" from the aspect of "the car is doing this, what should I do" rather than Rich's "if you change this the car should...".

See what works for you. I can't attest to the accuracy of info in this second sheet but a quick scan says it makes sense what I looked at.

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File Type: doc 1-12 setup guide.doc (33.0 KB, 605 views)
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:11 PM   #35545
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Thanks Scott, Richard's is the one I was looking for. The question I had on his setup guide was the difference between higher and flatter as typically by higher most people mean raising only the front mount which would also make it flatter...so by higher does he mean raise both ends of the shock?

Also what isn't covered on either of these is the affect of moving the shock mount location more forward or more rearward. Can anyone refresh me on this?

Thanks
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:17 PM   #35546
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Looking for a little help, can you guys point me in the direction of a good 1s ESC for my 12r5.1. I plan on running a 5000 3.7V 40C LIPO with a 17.5 motor. Any help would be great.

Thanks
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:22 PM   #35547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHOCKED View Post
Looking for a little help, can you guys point me in the direction of a good 1s ESC for my 12r5.1. I plan on running a 5000 3.7V 40C LIPO with a 17.5 motor. Any help would be great.

Thanks
Boosted or no boost?

Boosted, you need a Tekin.
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:25 PM   #35548
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If you are racing where they require a stock spec profile for 17.5 (no electronic timing boots) then right now the most hassle free is going to be the LRP SXX V2 since you do not need to use a booster or a receiver battery pack to power the receiver. I think Speed Passion also has one out that doesn't need a booster or RX pack but I'm not sure on that. And soon the Viper Vtrax1 will be released and that one also will not need a booster or RX pack. If your club allows electronic timing your probably going to want the Tekin RS.
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:34 PM   #35549
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Perfect thanks! It is a stock class @17.5 so I will not need boost.
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:54 PM   #35550
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Here's a whole thread on just this 1/12 Scale 1s esc

Quote:
Originally Posted by SHOCKED View Post
Looking for a little help, can you guys point me in the direction of a good 1s ESC for my 12r5.1. I plan on running a 5000 3.7V 40C LIPO with a 17.5 motor. Any help would be great.

Thanks
I went with the Xerun 120a 1s - Which I think is the samething as the Team Orion Vortex R10 Pro due out in April...
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