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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-18-2011, 07:52 AM   #35476
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
+1
My "1s" 12R5 Mod weighs about 700gr

Is this weight with or without the body??? which 1S battery please??

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Old 02-18-2011, 07:56 AM   #35477
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Originally Posted by tl2111 View Post
Paul, no need booster for this ESC is make for 1s, for 4.5T start with 32-34 rollout with mild boost no turbo yet, once you happy with the infield bottom end then start add small amount of turbo for more top speed. hope this help

I think is only you and me race s120L in OZ.
well hopefully we can change this. one more will hit the track soon, and then i guess maybe more after that. currently i have about 42mm roll out with what i have now, be similar in size of straight to Moorebank, but we have banked sweeper to turn into of the straight, so you know what it is like, makes it fast and a longer straight. ill be running kit setup for now, and just get used to driving a 12th. then will work on trying to get the most out of it. if your coming to EP Nats over this way, will have a starting point for setup i guess by then
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Old 02-18-2011, 08:09 AM   #35478
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Originally Posted by Pattojnr View Post
well hopefully we can change this. one more will hit the track soon, and then i guess maybe more after that. currently i have about 42mm roll out with what i have now, be similar in size of straight to Moorebank, but we have banked sweeper to turn into of the straight, so you know what it is like, makes it fast and a longer straight. ill be running kit setup for now, and just get used to driving a 12th. then will work on trying to get the most out of it. if your coming to EP Nats over this way, will have a starting point for setup i guess by then
if the traction is high, the little car is very similar to 8th in driving the faster it goes the better grip it generate. I ran at a small indoor track and per club rules we just use 10.5T with stock software and it seems to have good race with this format but we set our ESC Timing and Turbo almost at max value and the speed is on par with 6.5T mod software.

I will race the 12th and 8th at serpent cup. hope will see you around.
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Old 02-18-2011, 10:30 AM   #35479
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Exclamation Who Said anything about a "Mod Motor"?

Quote:
Originally Posted by avs View Post
ok, except with a mod motor maybe you will make 5minutes?
Everybody seems to miss my point!

My 1st post on this issue was a response to 2 questions about 2S LiPo packs that would fit in a 12th Scale. I have been playing with some SMC packs that will work. Another racer referenced a Yokomo pack that looks to be even better. I mentioned that with a 13.5T and Stock Spec ESC (No Boost) that my Car would reach Mod Speeds, I was Not Thinking 3.5-6.5T motors should be used!

BTW, if "Open Mod" is not really "Open", then what is it?
And how will any R&D ever happen if "Stagnation" is always the "Status Quo"?
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Old 02-18-2011, 11:13 AM   #35480
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The 1s rules have only been in place for a couple of years now...that is not stagnation...that is stability. Part of what is killing this hobby is the lack of stability. Things have been changing so fast these last few years it seems there is a new gotta have motor or ESC every week. It is just too expensive for most people to keep up with. Nothing is preventing R&D from occuring. Look at most of the advancements we are using today...most were developed outside of the existing rules and became popular enough that the rules had to be changed to adopt them. Brushless, LiPo, even the whole short course truck class were all in use and gaining popularity long before any sanctioning body added them to the rules.
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Old 02-18-2011, 02:36 PM   #35481
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Originally Posted by PHI/BMI racer View Post
Is this weight with or without the body??? which 1S battery please??

Race Ready, at the Norcal Nats last year.
Blackart Bomber body
Reedy Lipo
Tekin RS
TQ 13g Wire
TQ Booster
6.5 boosted.
Team AE 12R5 Aluminum Screw Kit
Parma\Jaco Magenta 42mm Fr, 44mm RR

weighed in at 698 on the track scale.
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Old 02-19-2011, 01:59 AM   #35482
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see post 35483
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Old 02-19-2011, 02:00 AM   #35483
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UK 12th Nationals Live

next meeting is Stocksbridge on 19th & 20th Februray

http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/BRC...51948314851514

Twitter page search for '@BRCA12thScale'


Quote:
In an effort to keep 12th scale racers and followers up to date and in the loop with news and results, the national series will now be covered online.

From the Tamworth national onwards you'll be able to visit pages on Facebook and Twitter to see what's going on if you're not at the meeting!


On the facebook page there will be round by round updates including images of the qualifying lists as well as notable occurrences and things that happen worth mentioning. Following each meeting you'll also be able to see photos, videos and reports from the event.

Twitter will be used in a similar way, but due to its more basic nature it'll be limited to short text updates on the movers and shakers in each round and the finals.

To access the Twitter page search for '@BRCA12thScale'
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Old 02-19-2011, 06:53 PM   #35484
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...
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Last edited by WIITA; 02-20-2011 at 01:27 PM.
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:21 PM   #35485
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Hi, I am going to try to get into 1/12. I have been racing touring cars for several years so I am not a newb to rc. I really like the top rebel but like the gen xl and the x11 link also. any pros and cons? also i will be running 17.5 blinky with my lrp spx stock spec. Will i need a booster? also can you recomend a starting rollout with an eXpress d3 motor and this esc.

Thanks in advance,
Hayden
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Old 02-19-2011, 09:38 PM   #35486
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I just picked up a used CRC T-Fource really cheap but now I need a servo and an esc to run the brushed motor it came with. Can anyone recommend an inexpensive servo and esc? Doesn't need to be great as this is my first time with this type of car and I'm sure it will be abused a bit during my learning curve.

Thanks!!
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Old 02-19-2011, 11:30 PM   #35487
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Originally Posted by shaggy11 View Post
Hi, I am going to try to get into 1/12. I have been racing touring cars for several years so I am not a newb to rc. I really like the top rebel but like the gen xl and the x11 link also. any pros and cons? also i will be running 17.5 blinky with my lrp spx stock spec. Will i need a booster? also can you recomend a starting rollout with an eXpress d3 motor and this esc.

Thanks in advance,
Hayden
If you like going it alone, get the car you like best. If you want to be one of the guys, get one some of the other racers in your area are running, so they can help if you have a problem. You might also check to see if your hobby shop supports a certain brand, otherwise you will be mail ordering parts. Unless your version of the SPX is the very latest one you will need a booster or receiver pack. Rollout depends on your track, a long fast track could use 100-105, a small technical track might go as low as 70-75. Ask somebody at your track what they are running and go from there. Good luck and have fun!!
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Old 02-19-2011, 11:48 PM   #35488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delawareguy View Post
I just picked up a used CRC T-Fource really cheap but now I need a servo and an esc to run the brushed motor it came with. Can anyone recommend an inexpensive servo and esc? Doesn't need to be great as this is my first time with this type of car and I'm sure it will be abused a bit during my learning curve.

Thanks!!
You should be able to pick up an LRP Quantum from someone, and the Futaba 9650 is a hard value to beat. You might want to think about a Cirtix type combo, brushless motor and basic speedo cheap. Most manufacturers have something of the sort. Be sure you get a new servo saver for your servo. Remember, have fun!!
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Old 02-20-2011, 03:39 AM   #35489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landau View Post
yokomo has 2 cell lipo battery(7.4V 2800mAh) as same size as 1 cell lipo which we are useing for 12th.

http://www.teamyokomo.com/jpn/partsl...yb_p228be.html

apart from Yokomo Japan can you get these in the online shops anywhere?
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Old 02-20-2011, 05:52 AM   #35490
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Quote:
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apart from Yokomo Japan can you get these in the online shops anywhere?
RC Adviser Champ. E-mail to: champ_international@yahoo.co.jp
E-mail orders will able to be accepted.
http://www.rc-champ.co.jp/Champ_Inte...onal_index.htm

Yokomo parts is #YB-P228BE

Air Mail by Japan post Office will be $3 or $4 USD.
Express Mail will be costs 1200JPY ($15 USD).

However they can not ship to oversea because of IATA regulation.
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