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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 02-01-2011, 08:10 AM   #35401
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Originally Posted by Serzoni View Post
trued to 46mm
thats big,are you on carpet
Jamie W
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Old 02-01-2011, 08:17 AM   #35402
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Old 02-01-2011, 08:20 AM   #35403
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i do run full size bsr outdoor since the traction is up and down,do you stay off the pipes
Jamie W
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Old 02-01-2011, 08:34 AM   #35404
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For the most part, yes. I've never had a problem with the BSRs tearing or chunking at all. Like I said, the TRC's were great, but after the first run I noticed that they were starting to separate, so I put a thin bead of CA on them right where the rim and tire meet each other. At the end of the second run, they were peeling even worse (including some chunking).
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Old 02-01-2011, 08:44 AM   #35405
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maybe a bad batch,me i would try one more set and if it does it again dont go back go with what has worked in the past
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Old 02-01-2011, 09:39 AM   #35406
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The 3 sets of TRCs I tried didn't peel in the least. I did get one small chunk but that could have been from hitting something rather than the glue giving up.
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Old 02-01-2011, 12:19 PM   #35407
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Something also to confirm on the tire separation is what tire sauce were you using.

BSR had an issue with the glue on it's oval tires in the pink, dbl pink back a year or so. If you changed what you used, no issues and they have since changed the glue.
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Old 02-01-2011, 12:29 PM   #35408
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I've been running black/purple can Paragon. If the track is really slick I'll use sunscreen. I've never had a BSR tire tear/chunk (both 12th and 10th scale)
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:09 PM   #35409
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My observations on glues and chunks:

Many brands like Jaco and apparently the new TRC's have gone to CA. This makes for a very strong bond so no problems there but there is another issue. With the softer rubbers like yellow, pink, magenta, etc., the CA soaks into the foam a bit and makes it very brittle. The foam can actually tear right at the transition from foam with no CA in it and where the CA has soaked in. What you end up with is a torn edge but you still see foam on the wheel. This doesn't seem to be as much a problem with the harder rubbers like purple, black, lilac, etc.

Many other brands like CRC, BSR, etc. still use some sort of contact or rubber cement. When done right, I believe this is better as it does not make the foam brittle. The only problems is that if it isn't applied liberally enough, you can easily have a thin spot and if it is near the edge, it will chunk easily. If this happens, there will be little or no rubber left on the wheel. Also it can be weakened by some traction compounds.

So like everything else, it's a compromise.
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:20 PM   #35410
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With Tires especially Jaco's (Which is the only tires our store stocks) I always check each rim for any area's that pull up or are loose and repair them with Contact cement. Making sure to wait min 15 min after coat. if I need wiggle room a tiny bit of thinner to make it moveable and presto.

Now I also Like to get Donuts Either BRS or Others and cement them to the rims I like ( Old Skool BSR's) or hot bodies. With Contact Cement and they last a lot longer in the chunk department

Mind you no matter what you do to the tires hitting a sharp object like a railing or wall will take it's toll no mater what. especially at 45mph
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:46 PM   #35411
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Another thing to watch out for is breaking traction. When the car slides, then suddenly hooks-up again, it puts a tremendous strain on the sidewall of the tire. This can cause even the best glue joint to separate, or the foam to tear away from the glue.

I've seen many cases where a car looks decent overall, and is running fair lap times, but will sometimes break traction at the rear end, snap around the corner, then square up. That is incredibly rough on the outside rear tire, and I've seen instances of EVERY brand of tire peel/chunk under those circumstances.
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Old 02-02-2011, 01:20 AM   #35412
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I'm not sure what CRC uses to mount their foam...but when I tried to mount my own on CRC rims and dunked them in the lacquor thinner the rims softened so I doubt they are using some sort of contact cement.
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Old 02-02-2011, 08:06 AM   #35413
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I believe that T.M. Tires still uses contact cement as well and it seems to work great.

An odd thing that we have been seeing lately are how some tires actually separate from the middle of the rim as if there wasn't any glue underneath but the T.M.'s have been very good with not doing this. As for the chunking issues, it seems that this can happen to everyone's tire, and as others have already noted, especially with particular compounds.

All in all, everyone (CRC, T.M., Jaco/Parma, BSR, TRC, RC4 Less, etc.) is making a quality product but it is interesting how different traction compounds (JTG, Paragon, SF, etc.) and different racing surfaces seem to be affecting the glues that different manufacturers use for their tires.

The best thing I have found for diminishing chunking is to really round off the edges, especially on the rears; this seems to help with what Ian brought up about the "slide and grab" condition that can occur in normal club type bite.
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Old 02-02-2011, 10:21 AM   #35414
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The other thing I found that really helped me with chunking is to have a set of tires for each run. This way I do not run a set of tires without checking for separation of the foam from the rim. Before the next race day I will re-glue any tires that are lifting as part of the tire truing process.
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Old 02-02-2011, 12:17 PM   #35415
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hello everybody.

Is the Speed Passion speedo competitive on 10,5T 1S lipo (12th scale, sp V3 motor)? Does anyone has a setup he wants to share?

I've been looking around and there is a bunch of new softwares from SP and HW. Should i stick with sp softwares or the new adjustability of the HW's is worth giving it a try?

I will be racing this week end and i would love not to start too far away of something that works.

thanks in advance for the help.

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