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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-20-2010, 06:31 AM   #35236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_square24 View Post
Is it normal to put in 230-240mah in a 220mah li-fe receiver pack after one run? My RS is being cut off quite a few times and I'm thinking the rx pack may be acting up since it had never put in that much on one charge.

Its an IP/Protek pack thats only a couple months of use on maybe 4 race days, storage charged at 3.9v/cell when not in use. It doesnt look swollen or anything abnormal.
That amount of charge is not normal at all. 30-50 mah is more like it. The LiFe battery nominal voltage is 3.3v per cell, 6.6v for 2s. Peak cutoff should be 7.2v for 2s. Storage charge could be in the 3.3-3.5v per cell range, but not 3.9v. Sounds like you have been charging your LiFe pack with Lipo settings. Regardless, sound like you need a new receiver pack
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:35 AM   #35237
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I know of other people who had this problem with their Tekins, its not just you. I would ask this on the Tekin thread but from memory one fix was to turn the switch to OFF when using a receiver pack.
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Old 12-20-2010, 07:53 PM   #35238
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what are some of the tricksu doto theride height adjustersto free theup with out making the bearings wobble
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Old 12-20-2010, 08:05 PM   #35239
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Find a 3/8" reamer (NOT a 3/8 drill bit!!) and run it through all the bores of the adjusters. Sizes them PERFECTLY to the bearings, they'll fit snugly but don't "snap" which compresses the bearings. The old Associated adjusters are from OLD molds and REALLY REALLY need this treatment, but even the IRS adjusters benefit noticeably from this treatment.

I bought my reamer forever ago from Niftech, but any industrial supply company can probably provide one.

THEN use some sort of marker (I've heard of folks using White Out, I used a silver paint pen) and mark the adjusters so they're easier to read. Becomes important as your eyes begin to go to crap like mine.
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Old 12-20-2010, 08:14 PM   #35240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Find a 3/8" reamer (NOT a 3/8 drill bit!!) and run it through all the bores of the adjusters. Sizes them PERFECTLY to the bearings, they'll fit snugly but don't "snap" which compresses the bearings. The old Associated adjusters are from OLD molds and REALLY REALLY need this treatment, but even the IRS adjusters benefit noticeably from this treatment.

I bought my reamer forever ago from Niftech, but any industrial supply company can probably provide one.

THEN use some sort of marker (I've heard of folks using White Out, I used a silver paint pen) and mark the adjusters so they're easier to read. Becomes important as your eyes begin to go to crap like mine.
Although I'm sure there are cheaper ones out there, but is this like the ream you are talking about?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#center-reamers/=a8jkg7

Part #2989A19

Last edited by JustMe2; 12-20-2010 at 08:18 PM. Reason: added part #
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Old 12-20-2010, 09:07 PM   #35241
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First item listed, bottom listing:

http://www.victornet.com/subdepartme...8%22/1780.html

Straight flute, high-speed steel, chucking reamer. I hold it and the adjuster by hand and slowly turn it in.

I've dealt with Victor before, have a great assortment of tools, shipping was reasonable and quick. I bought all my taps for 1/12 (ESPECIALLY 8-32RH for IRS lower arms which WILL break at screw holes unless tapped). They even have the left hand (can't remember exactly the size, but it's REALLY odd) for the titanium screw-in front axles into the steering blocks. Creates less distortion when you cut threads for the axle itself, then run a 1/8" reamer (which Victor also has) through the steering block so it doesn't stick on the kingpin. Etc.

4-40, 2-56, wish I could remember 'em all. Got 'em in my "building" kit.
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Old 12-20-2010, 11:22 PM   #35242
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Yokomo r12
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Old 12-21-2010, 11:51 AM   #35243
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What is the common cause for lap times to fall off after about 4 min. into a run. I am running Tekin esc and Ballistic 17.5. It is a open boost/turbo class on a small tight carpet track. My rollout is about 78mm. The track size is about 50X30ish.
I am thinking my esc is overtimed or running to tall of a gear.
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Old 12-21-2010, 12:02 PM   #35244
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Originally Posted by Mugen10 View Post
What is the common cause for lap times to fall off after about 4 min. into a run. I am running Tekin esc and Ballistic 17.5. It is a open boost/turbo class on a small tight carpet track. My rollout is about 78mm. The track size is about 50X30ish.
I am thinking my esc is overtimed or running to tall of a gear.
try knocking down the boost a bit. I don't run 17.5 so I have no specific advise but with 10.5, this happens anytime I go too high on the timing.
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Old 12-21-2010, 03:26 PM   #35245
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For me 9 times out of 10, lap time reduction is caused by a change in the grip of the car. To determine if its motor/esc or grip levels go run until you feel/hear the clap times fall off. Then resauce and immediately wipe off. Go back out and run and see if the times change. For me I can almost always get back to within a tenth of my original hotlap just y resaucing. If it is still slower then you can look into overtimeing overboosting issues.
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Old 12-21-2010, 08:19 PM   #35246
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Originally Posted by Mugen10 View Post
What is the common cause for lap times to fall off after about 4 min. into a run. I am running Tekin esc and Ballistic 17.5. It is a open boost/turbo class on a small tight carpet track. My rollout is about 78mm. The track size is about 50X30ish.
I am thinking my esc is overtimed or running to tall of a gear.
What is the motor temp right off the track? Motor overheating or handling issues can cause falloff. What are your speedo settings? On short tracks, you may want to try a lower rollout.
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Old 12-22-2010, 02:44 PM   #35247
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The Kimbrough #114 Servo-saver for Futaba, does anyone make this in BLACK?
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Old 12-22-2010, 03:41 PM   #35248
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Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
The Kimbrough #114 Servo-saver for Futaba, does anyone make this in BLACK?
Not Kimbrough but here you go
http://www.rctech.net/forum/8378277-post139.html
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Old 12-22-2010, 08:39 PM   #35249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
are you sure? it looks like a kimbrough (# 201)
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Old 12-22-2010, 08:46 PM   #35250
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That is a Kimbro...but it is the mid sized servo saver not the small one. The extra length is going to make the steering more twitchy.
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