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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-25-2003, 03:11 AM   #3511
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what effects should i see/feel when using the 0deg caster block or 10deg blocks??

thanks
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Old 07-25-2003, 05:17 AM   #3512
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Isaac
Well is John Robb running mod, 19T or stock. So that's Uneke, Geppetto, Komkit, Isaac and John running 12th scale?

I'll run what ever the people run. I'll try to run MOD once in a while.

My guess 1/12th 19T will be the class to be in this season. I still gonna keep running YRX-12WE, its has been very good to me. I might have to put the thick chassis on once the traction comes up.

But right now Isaac - eat my tires dust
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Old 07-25-2003, 06:21 AM   #3513
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Isaac: [trash talk'n] The only thing left for you to do is to get Mike D. to drive it for you!!! [/trash talk'n]

It would be nice if we could get Mark T. out also.
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Old 07-25-2003, 07:37 AM   #3514
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Isaac,

I'm going to be at The Track when possible practicing during the rest of the summer. I will start out running stock, and based on my ability to drive the car properly, I may be ready for 19T for the indoor season. Watching you guys run 19T it looks fast and fun. Mod is definately out. That's a whole different level of control!!!

Any ideas on setting voltage threshold for GP3300's on Pulsar for 4 cells?

I'm trying the Ascari body. Hopefully it handles well.

John
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Old 07-25-2003, 07:54 AM   #3515
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Quote:
Originally posted by Isaac
Well is John Robb running mod, 19T or stock. So that's Uneke, Geppetto, Komkit, Isaac and John running 12th scale?

Mike D. I am personally handing you my IRS 12th. I need the spacers under the T-bar. The rear pod is higher than the main part of the chassis. You're gonna set me up anyway right? Anyway I don't need the aggressive steering that you like. Stock will probably do me just fine.
Isaac - Bring it by Laurel on Sunday. The TCS race has 140 entries and I know I will have time to work on it. As far as setup, I never run my 12th aggressive on carpet. 12th scale is all about consistency for 8 minutes and that is too hard to do for a whole run with a touchy car.
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Old 07-25-2003, 10:25 PM   #3516
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How much lower should I gear my 19t Chameleon motor from my P2k? I want to try my 19t motor in my 1/12 and see if I can handle it. I need more speed .
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Old 07-26-2003, 05:42 AM   #3517
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I think I gear my C2 the same as stock. It goes faster and accelerates better, but I can't handle it very well. I put a 13 X 2 in it, and in a parking lot, I can't get to top end geared with a rollout of about 36 on a 100' straight.

1/12 starts in October around here.

David Root
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Old 07-26-2003, 09:17 AM   #3518
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Quote:
Originally posted by Finsy
what effects should i see/feel when using the 0deg caster block or 10deg blocks??

thanks
ne1??
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Old 07-26-2003, 10:19 AM   #3519
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Quote:
Originally posted by Finsy
what effects should i see/feel when using the 0deg caster block or 10deg blocks??

thanks
Hi Finsey,

Looks like everyones busy so I'll take a shot at your question....

The 10 degree blocks are what come with the Associated 12L3 (the car I have) and this front end is used on alot of other cars as well. The 10 degree blocks give a fairly aggressive steering throughout the whole corner. The 0 degree blocks slow down the aggressiveness of the steering and make the car easier to drive. The trade-off that I've noticed is that the car will not have the same corner speed in the last two/thirds of a given corner.

I used the 0 degree blocks for about a year at my track so that my mind could keep pace with the incredible speed of these little cars. As my skill has increased, I have gone back to the 10 degree blocks for more steering and responsiveness.

Hope this helps..... LC SoCal Raceway
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Old 07-26-2003, 12:31 PM   #3520
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Quote:
Originally posted by Graphitedust
Hi Finsey,

Looks like everyones busy so I'll take a shot at your question....

The 10 degree blocks are what come with the Associated 12L3 (the car I have) and this front end is used on alot of other cars as well. The 10 degree blocks give a fairly aggressive steering throughout the whole corner. The 0 degree blocks slow down the aggressiveness of the steering and make the car easier to drive. The trade-off that I've noticed is that the car will not have the same corner speed in the last two/thirds of a given corner.

I used the 0 degree blocks for about a year at my track so that my mind could keep pace with the incredible speed of these little cars. As my skill has increased, I have gone back to the 10 degree blocks for more steering and responsiveness.

Hope this helps..... LC SoCal Raceway
Hi! I rebuilt my 1/12 L3 using the 0 degree blocks, I have not tried it yet, but since I am new to 1/12 would it be better starting with this before going to the 10degree blocks? Been to SoCal once when I was visiting!! Great atmosphere there and the guy behing the counter was really helpful!! Peace!!!!
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Old 07-26-2003, 01:58 PM   #3521
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Smile My Take on 10 blocks

What the angled block does: As the front suspension compresses, it reduces caster by 2 dagrees at full travel.

More Caster makes the car more stable and less darty or tiwchy. As caster decreases, the car has more turn in.

The 10 blocks decrease caster as you load the suspension. SO when you first turn or going straight you have more caster......A good thing. As the chasis rolls and puts weight on the outside tire, the caster decreases by a total of 2 dagrees which gives you more agressive steering and more turn in......A good thing when you are turning. So you can have your cake and eat it too.

I use 10 blocks on my 1/12 and 0 blocks on my 1/10 pan car. I will try switching them both just to see how they act and react.

SOOOO the 10 blocks are more agressive like Graphite dust said.


Getting Fired up about 1/12 season!!
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Old 07-26-2003, 02:46 PM   #3522
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Default A little more on 12th scale caster blocks

I have to agree that the 0 degree caster blocks give the car a more softer turn-in feel, especially on high bite carpet like at my track. You will usually find the novice 1/12 scaler using these as this is what we recommend as a starting point until they get used to the feel of the car.
Being as that the 10 degree blocks DO give you reactive caster, this is great again on high bite carpet for inside passing as your car will hold a tighter line.
Most of the pro's are running the setup with:
10 degree blocks
Shims to the front (Yes, both of them)
3.5mm ride height all the way around.

or

Some just use the "Old Skool" front end with no spacers or shims.
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Old 07-26-2003, 10:11 PM   #3523
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graphitedust/david root/speedytc3 - thanks a lot guys for your input

Last edited by Finsy; 07-26-2003 at 10:17 PM.
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Old 07-27-2003, 10:07 AM   #3524
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Default Thanks Guys

for enlightening me regarding the 0degree blocks! have not tried it cause as you know we had a small rebellion here by dis-gruntled officers and soldiers in the Armed Forces!!! hehehehe
all is well now so happy racing!!!!! Peace to all Men!!!
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Old 07-28-2003, 09:59 AM   #3525
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Default Re: Thanks Guys

Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
for enlightening me regarding the 0degree blocks! have not tried it cause as you know we had a small rebellion here by dis-gruntled officers and soldiers in the Armed Forces!!! hehehehe
all is well now so happy racing!!!!! Peace to all Men!!!

Your welcome! By the way, whats the latest in the Philippines? Whats the story with the disgruntled soldiers?
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