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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-12-2010, 11:03 PM   #35221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF View Post
I run a 4pk, but I don't understand what the photo of the car would do for you. Please explain.
E
I think he wants a photo of the new fasst rx wired in a 12th scale.
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:10 PM   #35222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
And while I'm here does anyone have an opinion on the ManuTech Racing Lipo Plate or others like it?
The ManuTech products are top notch, produced by a grass-roots RC enthusiast. I use them myself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Owen RaCing View Post
I think he wants a photo of the new fasst rx wired in a 12th scale.
Yeah, we had him convinced (almost) that the "fast" guys are dangling it behind the car by the ESC lead to minimize unsprung weight, but ever since he caught onto our shenanigans with the "ultra-light" aluminum foil diff-rings he says we're "lying bastards".

Somebody help him out
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:38 PM   #35223
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
The ManuTech products are top notch, produced by a grass-roots RC enthusiast. I use them myself.
Ok, that's good to know. I more meant though, is this a useful/significant upgrade/tuning option and when would you use it? If it makes a difference, I'm looking at it for the RC12R5.1, and being in Australia I do a lot of tarmac racing as well as a little on carpet.
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Old 12-14-2010, 06:25 PM   #35224
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I thought seeing the someone else's idea on wiring a R614FF would not be a bad thing. With the tight tolerances underneath the 12th body, I was wondering if the good layout involves the plug n side of the receiver facing the antenna?
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Old 12-14-2010, 06:43 PM   #35225
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Anything that sticks up more than 1/2 to 5/8 inch needs to go to the center for clearance. That includes the plugs of most receivers.
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Old 12-15-2010, 09:37 AM   #35226
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.

Last edited by Josh Keller; 12-18-2010 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 12-17-2010, 11:58 AM   #35227
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I have a few questions regarding setup for a link type 12th. scale. I am about to build a Gen XL but am still working with my 3.2 Carpet Knife.

I run on an asphalt track that we clean and treat with sugar water, so the track (by 12th. scale standards) would be medium grip, but I think it hooks up pretty good. I am running basically at stock 17.5 brushless setup with no timing or esc boost. I have the newest CRC center shock with 30wt. oil in it, I'm running pink rear and magenta or purple fronts, trued to 48 and 46mm respectively. My gearing right now is 78/44 for a 3.37 roll out (not aggressive at all) I have 16awg wire to minimize any binding of the rear pod.

Here is my issue:

The car turnes one way (left) and is stuck. On the right handers it wants to spin on throttle. I know about tweak and such but no matter how I set it, I keep getting this issue. I am able to adjust the tweak screws and completely reverse the issue, but I can't find the middle.

I have checked that all of the moving parts are free. Front arms drop on their own. Rear pod with nothing connected moves free in all directions.

One thought is that since its a 3.2 and the brushless motor off set, throws things out of balance vs. the new cars with the motor weight considered, that it may be part of the problem.
Or, that the 1s battery and lighter rearend just has the car more sensitive.

Any other suggestions on how to tackle this common issue? It's hard to find any "cause and effect" articles about 12th. scale pan.

Thanks for any help!
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:15 PM   #35228
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Just right off hand....what condition is your servo AND/OR servo-saver in?
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:37 PM   #35229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danthrc View Post
I have a few questions regarding setup for a link type 12th. scale. I am about to build a Gen XL but am still working with my 3.2 Carpet Knife.

I run on an asphalt track that we clean and treat with sugar water, so the track (by 12th. scale standards) would be medium grip, but I think it hooks up pretty good. I am running basically at stock 17.5 brushless setup with no timing or esc boost. I have the newest CRC center shock with 30wt. oil in it, I'm running pink rear and magenta or purple fronts, trued to 48 and 46mm respectively. My gearing right now is 78/44 for a 3.37 roll out (not aggressive at all) I have 16awg wire to minimize any binding of the rear pod.

Here is my issue:

The car turnes one way (left) and is stuck. On the right handers it wants to spin on throttle. I know about tweak and such but no matter how I set it, I keep getting this issue. I am able to adjust the tweak screws and completely reverse the issue, but I can't find the middle.

I have checked that all of the moving parts are free. Front arms drop on their own. Rear pod with nothing connected moves free in all directions.

One thought is that since its a 3.2 and the brushless motor off set, throws things out of balance vs. the new cars with the motor weight considered, that it may be part of the problem.
Or, that the 1s battery and lighter rearend just has the car more sensitive.

Any other suggestions on how to tackle this common issue? It's hard to find any "cause and effect" articles about 12th. scale pan.

Thanks for any help!
Good day!

I run a 3.1 Carpet Knife with lipo and 17.5 brushless with boost. I have 1/4 oz weight on the rear pod on the spur gear side forword as far out as it will go to help compinsate for the inballance. The car works realy well and I have no turning problems.

Things I would check....Make shure you do not have a bent king pin. Make shure your front lower armes are the same hight ( they do bend after a couple of hits). Check all bearings. Check your front springs for size and play.
Make shure your front upper arms are moving free and the pins are not bent.
Check rid hight to mke sure the chassies is not rubbing on a turn.

Hope this helps.
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:54 PM   #35230
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Servo saver seems to be okay although I will check. Servo is the Futaba digital, can't remember the numbers but its one of the common ones.

I will check the weight balance, bearings, springs and arms again to see if I can spot anything.

I have been runing my tweak springs (white) all the way up and have had the car pretty balanced. Yesterday when I was testing and had this problem, I could reverse the issue by screwing the right spring (looking from behind the car) all the way in and leaving the left one alone.
But from there, I could never work them to a balanced point. Kind of crazy.

Oh, ride height was pretty much 4mm all the way around.
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Old 12-17-2010, 03:06 PM   #35231
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Also check the pivot football for binding and play.
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Old 12-19-2010, 01:45 PM   #35232
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Default 12r5 front adaptors

anyone know who made or where to get the front adaptor blocks that allowed you to mount the new style 12r5 front suspension arms onto an old school spaced and screw sized chassis? Old school and reactive caster having the same spacing with the 8-32 screw size as compared to the spacing difference and metric screws used on the new 12r5 front suspension system.

Thanks,
Alex
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Old 12-19-2010, 02:53 PM   #35233
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Hyperdrive racing makes them.
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Old 12-19-2010, 11:28 PM   #35234
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I think you are looking for these:

http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...oducts_id=1929
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Old 12-20-2010, 02:44 AM   #35235
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Is it normal to put in 230-240mah in a 220mah li-fe receiver pack after one run? My RS is being cut off quite a few times and I'm thinking the rx pack may be acting up since it had never put in that much on one charge.

Its an IP/Protek pack thats only a couple months of use on maybe 4 race days, storage charged at 3.9v/cell when not in use. It doesnt look swollen or anything abnormal.
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