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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-28-2010, 09:33 AM   #35176
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Actually, I know a couple of guys who put Chevy engines in an Aston Martin and a Jaguar. And lot of people would have loved to put GM electrics in place of their Lucas bits. Do you know why the Brits drink warm Beer? Lucas refrigerators. Joseph Lucas, Prince of Darkness.

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Old 11-28-2010, 12:12 PM   #35177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drillit View Post
Hi there, I just had the same thing happen to my Xray (X10). I found most of the Xray owners are discussing this on the Xray forums, give this link a try, it should take you right to the 12th section.http://forum.teamxray.com/viewforum....315901a0b0d11d 10th or 12th scale, they ALL are having this problem, and as you will find, they talk about the aluminum axle not being any better? It just bends instead of breaking! (so they say) I hope Xray gets this fixed. I'm sure they will.

Good Luck
Mark
It seems that the problem is the way the threaded part is fixed to the graphite shaft. Some people have here just re-glued the threaded bit back to the shaft and the axle works again.

The option is to use something stronger ie. rear axle from other manufacturer. I know CRC takes Xray axle so it should work the other way too.
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Old 11-28-2010, 01:21 PM   #35178
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Default Serpent S120 Writeup on On Point Bits

Hi All

I got some time this weekend to update http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/
with info on the On Point Racing parts for the Serpent S120L.

Hope it's of interest.

Cheers

Mark
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Old 11-28-2010, 01:31 PM   #35179
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That's an awesome write up
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:08 PM   #35180
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I'm from Australia where there is no spec motor class for 1/12. I want to try and get one going, because not having a feeder class is hurting numbers.

I know Stock 12th used to be popular in the brushed motor days, even with 4 cell, but what's the story now with 1S?

Which spec motor do the sanctioning bodies use for 1S 12th? Is it 17.5 or something a little quicker?
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:41 PM   #35181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
I'm from Australia where there is no spec motor class for 1/12. I want to try and get one going, because not having a feeder class is hurting numbers.

I know Stock 12th used to be popular in the brushed motor days, even with 4 cell, but what's the story now with 1S?

Which spec motor do the sanctioning bodies use for 1S 12th? Is it 17.5 or something a little quicker?
Yes , It is 17.5
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:51 PM   #35182
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To incorporate the largest possible community for the 1/12 class, we race the following 4 motor / battery combinations together. We have found, like others, that these 4 combinations are competitive with each other. Of course, each has their own advantages and disadvantages, but we see these combinations all making the A-mains regularly. Motor Type / Size Battery Type
27T Brushed 4-cell NiMH / NiCD
19T Brushed 1S (3.7v) Li-Poly
17.5T Brushless 4-cell NiMH / NiCD
13.5T Brushless 1S (3.7v) Li-Poly

There is no limit on the size of the packs used. Li-Poly packs must be hardcase per ROAR rules.
Copied from Mushroom Bowl Rules
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Old 12-02-2010, 12:02 AM   #35183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lapper View Post
To incorporate the largest possible community for the 1/12 class, we race the following 4 motor / battery combinations together. We have found, like others, that these 4 combinations are competitive with each other. Of course, each has their own advantages and disadvantages, but we see these combinations all making the A-mains regularly. Motor Type / Size Battery Type
27T Brushed 4-cell NiMH / NiCD
19T Brushed 1S (3.7v) Li-Poly
17.5T Brushless 4-cell NiMH / NiCD
13.5T Brushless 1S (3.7v) Li-Poly

There is no limit on the size of the packs used. Li-Poly packs must be hardcase per ROAR rules.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDOUBLEDAY View Post
Yes , It is 17.5
A lot of (but not all) Australian tracks where 12th is raced are outdoor pavement tracks that are designed for 10th scale. As an entry level class, is 1S 17.5 still going to be enjoyable on these size tracks? Or would 1S 13.5 be closer to the mark? Remember, most racers trying this are going to be new to pan car racing.
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Old 12-02-2010, 01:20 AM   #35184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
I'm from Australia where there is no spec motor class for 1/12. I want to try and get one going, because not having a feeder class is hurting numbers.

I know Stock 12th used to be popular in the brushed motor days, even with 4 cell, but what's the story now with 1S?

Which spec motor do the sanctioning bodies use for 1S 12th? Is it 17.5 or something a little quicker?
The UK, and also most of Europe use 10.5 1S for stock class.

I will have to admit though that there is little difference in speed between this and modified.

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Old 12-02-2010, 01:30 AM   #35185
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Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
The UK, and also most of Europe use 10.5 1S for stock class.

I will have to admit though that there is little difference in speed between this and modified.

Trev
Thanks, that's the type of information I need. If this is going to be a feeder class, then 10.5 is too quick. So, either 13.5 or 17.5.
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Old 12-02-2010, 03:13 PM   #35186
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For people trying out 1/12 for the first time, I would say 17.5 on a smaller track , and 13.5 on a bigger track
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Old 12-02-2010, 05:47 PM   #35187
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Wuts some of the best 13.5 motors for 1/12? Is it the Lrp ?
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Old 12-02-2010, 06:23 PM   #35188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by younghovaa View Post
Wuts some of the best 13.5 motors for 1/12? Is it the Lrp ?
Personal preference,tekin,duo,sp,lrp,murfdogg take tor pick
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Old 12-02-2010, 07:42 PM   #35189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
Thanks, that's the type of information I need. If this is going to be a feeder class, then 10.5 is too quick. So, either 13.5 or 17.5.
Hi mate. Troy decided to run a 17.5 one night at Windsor against everyone else with their 10.5's. It was surprising just how competitive he was with it. We both agreed afterwards, that in our opinion, 17.5 open esc is a good entry level class for 1/12th.
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Old 12-02-2010, 07:58 PM   #35190
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I like the duo3s , Murfdoggs are good .
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