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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-27-2010, 05:32 PM   #35161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer357 View Post
in this particular case it is the speedo. Version 104 is supposed to rectify the issue that causes him to get pulled out of every corner with a lower start rpm to the speedos timing maniputlation.
Right now the powerband doesn't really come in soon enough.

I know Noavk will get the software dialed in and then he will be right where he needs to be....
I am having the trouble finding the ESC timing and Motor timing so that I can use boost. I also don't really understand the boost from conflicting information I have gotten. Does it come on imediatly after the delay no matter what RPM or go through the timing/RPM ramp set points then boost on. I am under the impression that it comes on no matter what timing or RPM after the set 100-500ms delay. For instance say I have the timing at 40* and a ramp of 2000-4500. It will come on full boost even at 1900RPM if I have exceeded the delay. Do I have it right? IF so then that is just horrible and going full timing all the way through the RPM range is no different than a fixed timing esc. I hope I am wrong but I need to know and I need help. I am running my Kenetic 2s in my 1/12 with a 1s lipo, Ballistic 17.5. 1.66" diameter tires. I bought the Kenetic 2s in case this thing is a joke but would be a suitable esc and an upgrade from the GTB's in the SC10/T4.

Thanks for the help
Jeremiah
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Last edited by ThrottleKing; 11-27-2010 at 05:32 PM. Reason: revision
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Old 11-27-2010, 06:46 PM   #35162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Funky View Post
I think my hub problem was related to a tweak issue. I didn't know how to adjust tweak so when I was setting up the car.
How do we adjust tweak, I believe my car needs adjusting. Though first I need to replace the standard 12awg wire.
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Old 11-27-2010, 07:14 PM   #35163
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Mark talks about a CRC car here but the principles apply to all:

http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/se...a%2012th%20Car

These days balancing has almost replaced tweaking. If you balance the car exactly, it should be nearly perfectly tweaked. Which he explains.
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Old 11-27-2010, 08:26 PM   #35164
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t-bar less
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Old 11-27-2010, 08:32 PM   #35165
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Anyone have experience w/ the MMP esc? I posted this on it's own but nobody seems to know or at least noticed it..

I setup my crc gen-x 10le with a mmp standard version and disabled the BEC and was running a novak smart booster to get the voltage up and to take care of the LVC duties. Well when i pull the throttle, it starts and then immediatly cuts out. I've tried several things with no luck even wired in the esc's bec again and just left it off as novak normally instructs. I did rewire in a 2s config and the motor ans esc work fine..

Any thoughts, something I may have missed. I would really like to not have to buy another ESC.
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Old 11-27-2010, 09:56 PM   #35166
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I have not tried this myself, but there is a post somewhere here on RCTech showing how to disable the LVC on a smartboost. I found when using timing advance etc in the current crop of escs, that the amp draw was too much for the Novak SB to handle, so it brown'd out.

PM me your number and I can txt you the picture.
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:20 PM   #35167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
I have not tried this myself, but there is a post somewhere here on RCTech showing how to disable the LVC on a smartboost. I found when using timing advance etc in the current crop of escs, that the amp draw was too much for the Novak SB to handle, so it brown'd out.

PM me your number and I can txt you the picture.
Thanks for the offer.. I'll just drop in a tekin, snagged one on the sale forum. I have the same rs pro w/ novak sb in my 1/12 gen-xl so it shouldn't be an issue anymore.. I just hope it arrives by Thursday so I don't miss my race
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:20 PM   #35168
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Hello all

I have start playing my 1/12 link car recently and the rear shaft was bended and broken. This happened earlier when I was played my link car at the 3rd ride.

Would like to know if you have experienced this before? Btw, I noticed that Xray have a rear shaft made of Alunimium (37 5011). Have you use it before? Would it be long lasting when compare to the graphite shaft (37 5010)? Thanks !
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Old 11-27-2010, 11:02 PM   #35169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildManDriving View Post
How do we adjust tweak, I believe my car needs adjusting. Though first I need to replace the standard 12awg wire.
Pretty easy process assuming that both sides of the front end are acting the same. If one frt spring has sacked out, it will be hard to get the car to tweak correctly. If the frt end if good, just put a penny on the top of the front tires and lift the front end with an Xacto knife at the center point of the chassis. The side with the penny that falls first needs more weight so you losen the oposite side spring, or tighten the same side, a little until the pennys fall at the same time.

Or you could use one of these.............



Just so happens that it's for sale too:

Xray, Assoc. Tekin RS, LRP..Retiring and it's all got to go.
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Old 11-27-2010, 11:05 PM   #35170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveL View Post
Pretty easy process assuming that both sides of the front end are acting the same. If one frt spring has sacked out, it will be hard to get the car to tweak correctly. If the frt end if good, just put a penny on the top of the front tires and lift the front end with an Xacto knife at the center point of the chassis. The side with the penny that falls first needs more weight so you tighten the oposite side spring, or losen the same side, a little until the pennys fall at the same time.

Or you could use one of these.............



Just so happens that it's for sale too:

Xray, Assoc. Tekin RS, LRP..Retiring and it's all got to go.
Shameless retiring troll!
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Old 11-27-2010, 11:09 PM   #35171
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quarters is the best way to set tweak IMO.
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Old 11-27-2010, 11:15 PM   #35172
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You caught me Andrew.
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Old 11-28-2010, 07:58 AM   #35173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikuro View Post
Hello all

I have start playing my 1/12 link car recently and the rear shaft was bended and broken. This happened earlier when I was played my link car at the 3rd ride.

Would like to know if you have experienced this before? Btw, I noticed that Xray have a rear shaft made of Alunimium (37 5011). Have you use it before? Would it be long lasting when compare to the graphite shaft (37 5010)? Thanks !
Hi there, I just had the same thing happen to my Xray (X10). I found most of the Xray owners are discussing this on the Xray forums, give this link a try, it should take you right to the 12th section.http://forum.teamxray.com/viewforum....315901a0b0d11d 10th or 12th scale, they ALL are having this problem, and as you will find, they talk about the aluminum axle not being any better? It just bends instead of breaking! (so they say) I hope Xray gets this fixed. I'm sure they will.

Good Luck
Mark
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Old 11-28-2010, 08:34 AM   #35174
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Just about any rear axle will work. Try one from an Associated 12R5.
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Old 11-28-2010, 08:54 AM   #35175
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Oh come now, you wouldn't use just any ol chevy or ford parts on that there Bentley, would you? haha
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