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KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-14-2010, 10:30 PM   #35146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darrenoakley View Post
I tend to apply a thin layer of shoo goo around the areas of most impact and wheel arches,then smooth it flat with finger tip. I works really well if you do it to a new shell and dry quickly. it has totally stopped splitting of the arches on my touring car and also 12th shell. I have used the specific RC lexan repair stuff but doesn't work as well as shoo goo. If you have any splits you can reinforce them with an off cut of lexan from a shell.
Thanks for the tip!! I picked up some shoe goo from Ebay and reinforced a few of my bodies yesterday. I had plenty of cracked wheel arches and busted body mount holes but the shoe goo fixed it all up better than ever. It really helped reinforce everything so it is stronger than new and I didn't pick up any more cracks today despite plenty of walls jumping out in front of my cars Awesome tip, thanks again!!
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Old 11-14-2010, 10:55 PM   #35147
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Default Left hub coming loose?

I tried searching for this problem, but it is so hard to find specific info in these threads. Sorry if this has already been covered, I figure it has since I have 3 different cars with the same problem

I have a CRC 3.2R, 12R5.1 and 12L4 that all have the same problem keeping the left hub tight on the axle. No matter how hard I tighten the screw in the left hub, it eventually develops a little bit of side-to-side slop which ruins the handling. The faster my lap times are getting, the quicker I am working these left hubs loose.... and it is happening on all three 1/12s I am running Are there any good tricks for keeping the left hub tight on the axle?? The screw is not coming loose and it has always been tight when I checked it, but the hub will eventually move enough to cause ~1mm of play.
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Old 11-15-2010, 12:06 AM   #35148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Funky View Post
I tried searching for this problem, but it is so hard to find specific info in these threads. Sorry if this has already been covered, I figure it has since I have 3 different cars with the same problem

I have a CRC 3.2R, 12R5.1 and 12L4 that all have the same problem keeping the left hub tight on the axle. No matter how hard I tighten the screw in the left hub, it eventually develops a little bit of side-to-side slop which ruins the handling. The faster my lap times are getting, the quicker I am working these left hubs loose.... and it is happening on all three 1/12s I am running Are there any good tricks for keeping the left hub tight on the axle?? The screw is not coming loose and it has always been tight when I checked it, but the hub will eventually move enough to cause ~1mm of play.

What about making the gap in the hub alittle bigger with a dremel cutting wheel? Should allow you to apply more force to the axle.

Thats the only thing I can think of, never had the problem of the hub moving.

Shawn.
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Old 11-15-2010, 12:56 AM   #35149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer View Post
V-Dezign Carpet Ripper 4.0

anyone running this car in America?

seems to popular in Europe

Hi guys!

Not yet that I would know, so far limited marketing has been done to Europe market. More info will follow later on, working on the info during the end of this year.

v-dezign.net e-mail server has been down for some time already, please email to v-dezign@hotmail.com for further questions and info!

at Facebook you can find lots of photos and info about the latest version, reports etc

http://www.facebook.com/vdezign

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...d=223123974212
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Old 11-22-2010, 10:11 AM   #35150
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Originally Posted by radio_car_racer View Post
V-Dezign Carpet Ripper 4.0

seems to popular in Europe
Anybody tried lowering the 5 pivot balls by 0.6mm?

Something there doing in Europe on the for V-Dezign CR4 which helps improve the handling. The CR 4 uses the AE pivot balls etc
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Old 11-22-2010, 06:11 PM   #35151
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Default Bodies

I need to paint up a few bodies. I've been pretty much just running the protoform amr 12. Do 12th scale bodies affect handling as much as TC bodies? It took me a year, but I finally settled down on a TC body that I like. It took me going through at least 2 of each of the popular bodies. Suggestions?
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Old 11-22-2010, 06:29 PM   #35152
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Yes the body has a big impact on the handleing of the car. Alot depends on the level of grip, here we have a very low grip(dusty) carpet track so I've found that the HD8 is best for my car/style. If the grip is high the CRC bodies and the AMR should be good. You really should try a couple of bodies with no changes to the car and you'll see the differences.
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Old 11-22-2010, 07:39 PM   #35153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Funky View Post
I tried searching for this problem, but it is so hard to find specific info in these threads. Sorry if this has already been covered, I figure it has since I have 3 different cars with the same problem

I have a CRC 3.2R, 12R5.1 and 12L4 that all have the same problem keeping the left hub tight on the axle. No matter how hard I tighten the screw in the left hub, it eventually develops a little bit of side-to-side slop which ruins the handling. The faster my lap times are getting, the quicker I am working these left hubs loose.... and it is happening on all three 1/12s I am running Are there any good tricks for keeping the left hub tight on the axle?? The screw is not coming loose and it has always been tight when I checked it, but the hub will eventually move enough to cause ~1mm of play.
I find that the clamping hub's little allen bolt often doesn't do a good job of applying force to squeeze the hub on the axle if the bolt is installed dry. It seems to help if you put a dab of grease on the underside of the bolt's head. Somehow, adding a little lube to this area allows you to get more pulling force on that bolt without straining either the threads in the hub or the allen recess in the bolt. Obviously you don't want any of this lube on the axle or the inside bore of the hub. But some lubricant on the pinchbolt itself does seem to help it to thread in easier and to squeeze the clamping hub tighter on the axle. Since i've been doing this, my clamping hubs have been staying put. Also adding a little lubricant to the bolt seems to help to make both the hub and the little pinchbolt last indefinitely.
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:00 PM   #35154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Funky View Post
I tried searching for this problem, but it is so hard to find specific info in these threads. Sorry if this has already been covered, I figure it has since I have 3 different cars with the same problem

I have a CRC 3.2R, 12R5.1 and 12L4 that all have the same problem keeping the left hub tight on the axle. No matter how hard I tighten the screw in the left hub, it eventually develops a little bit of side-to-side slop which ruins the handling. The faster my lap times are getting, the quicker I am working these left hubs loose.... and it is happening on all three 1/12s I am running Are there any good tricks for keeping the left hub tight on the axle?? The screw is not coming loose and it has always been tight when I checked it, but the hub will eventually move enough to cause ~1mm of play.
I think if the hub is not tight it will spin on the axle.

The side, or end play issue you point out is from the bearing, and bearing holders seating into the pod.

Over-tightening of the hub will only loosen the hub on the axle more over time, it does not have to be that tight to do it's job, hence the small screw used to lock it down.

This of course is just from my experience with the R5, perhaps other brands have an issue ?
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:25 PM   #35155
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I think my hub problem was related to a tweak issue. I didn't know how to adjust tweak so when I was setting up the cars, I just screwed down both sides until they looked even Luckily another member on this site explained it to me in a PM and after checking (and fixing) the tweak, I didn't have a problem with the hubs coming loose. All 3 cars were hooking pretty sharp in one direction before fixing the tweak. I think this combined with a ton of traction was slowly working them loose over time. I ran all day sunday and the hubs didn't loosen up once.
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Old 11-23-2010, 03:39 PM   #35156
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Hello

A question regarding tires:

Are BSR tires similar or even equal to CRC?
Particularly pink and magenta

Thanks...
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Old 11-23-2010, 03:56 PM   #35157
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Yes....John @ BSR does the foams for Frank @ CRC.
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Old 11-23-2010, 09:02 PM   #35158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Yes the body has a big impact on the handleing of the car. Alot depends on the level of grip, here we have a very low grip(dusty) carpet track so I've found that the HD8 is best for my car/style. If the grip is high the CRC bodies and the AMR should be good. You really should try a couple of bodies with no changes to the car and you'll see the differences.
I knew that was coming. Thanks. I'll give a few a shot.
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Old 11-23-2010, 09:11 PM   #35159
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Seriously, if your track doesn't have a lot of grip start with a Parma Speed 8 HD. If you're in the middle try a Protoform Speed 12 or a Parma EE-1, if you have lots of bite go Protoform AMR or CRC R8C. But like Chris said try at least 2 because they are different and you will like one more than the other.
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Old 11-27-2010, 12:19 PM   #35160
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UK 12th Nationals Live

next meeting is Tamworth on 11th & 12th December

Quote:
In an effort to keep 12th scale racers and followers up to date and in the loop with news and results, the national series will now be covered online.

From the Tamworth national onwards you'll be able to visit pages on Facebook and Twitter to see what's going on if you're not at the meeting!


On the facebook page there will be round by round updates including images of the qualifying lists as well as notable occurrences and things that happen worth mentioning. Following each meeting you'll also be able to see photos, videos and reports from the event.

To access the facebook page, Click Here


Twitter will be used in a similar way, but due to its more basic nature it'll be limited to short text updates on the movers and shakers in each round and the finals.

To access the Twitter page search for '@BRCA12thScale'

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