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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-12-2010, 08:56 AM   #35131
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in this particular case it is the speedo. Version 104 is supposed to rectify the issue that causes him to get pulled out of every corner with a lower start rpm to the speedos timing maniputlation.
Right now the powerband doesn't really come in soon enough.

I know Noavk will get the software dialed in and then he will be right where he needs to be....
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Old 11-12-2010, 11:06 AM   #35132
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If you have a kinetic 1s, spektrum receiver and ko servo the lipo is plug and play. The point is get the right setup and you can do it.
No, the point is, you still haven't answered my original question.

"Are you absolutely certain that this product [LiPo receiver pack] is better than a LiFe? If so, tell us why it is better"

Why would someone choose a LiPo, along with the extra hardware that is needed on many systems, instead of a LiFe? Don't say it's because you need a different charger. My LiFe charges just fine with my LiPo charger.
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Old 11-12-2010, 11:36 AM   #35133
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Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
Got a question about diff rings- the 'indentation' that forms on the rings from the balls, is that desirable or should that be sanded out?
It should be sanded out. Effectively, the balls a burnishing the surface of the washer. After a prolonged time, they will create a groove in the washer. The burnished surface is slippery, and so the diff is more inclined to slip under power, especially with ceramic-coated balls (Yeah, I said that too!! )

Irrespective of the use of a thrust race or cone washer in the outboard side of the diff, the burnishing of the rings encourages the diff to slip, and then it burnishes the rings more, and then it slips, and then... Providing the diff is kept tight with no slip, it will last longer.

As relevant to a smooth diff is the c**p that gets between the diff balls and their holes in the spur gear. This rapidly creates a 'grease' that drags on the balls and makes the diff 'sticky'. Often, simply cleaning out the diff balls and their holes in the spur gear will restore a diff to good condition.

Lastly, be sparing with the grease. It is only there to provide a lubrication between the ball and its plastic hole - it has no other function. It isn't there to lubricate any of the steel parts - if it was then the diff would slip all the time!!!
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Old 11-12-2010, 12:17 PM   #35134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
It should be sanded out. Effectively, the balls a burnishing the surface of the washer. After a prolonged time, they will create a groove in the washer. The burnished surface is slippery, and so the diff is more inclined to slip under power, especially with ceramic-coated balls (Yeah, I said that too!! )

Irrespective of the use of a thrust race or cone washer in the outboard side of the diff, the burnishing of the rings encourages the diff to slip, and then it burnishes the rings more, and then it slips, and then... Providing the diff is kept tight with no slip, it will last longer.

As relevant to a smooth diff is the c**p that gets between the diff balls and their holes in the spur gear. This rapidly creates a 'grease' that drags on the balls and makes the diff 'sticky'. Often, simply cleaning out the diff balls and their holes in the spur gear will restore a diff to good condition.

Lastly, be sparing with the grease. It is only there to provide a lubrication between the ball and its plastic hole - it has no other function. It isn't there to lubricate any of the steel parts - if it was then the diff would slip all the time!!!
Thanks buddy. I guess I shouldn't have said 'groove', lol. There's no groove in my diff rings; that's just the first word that came to mind.
But you are absolutely right, a small thin film of grease on the balls (ewww!!) is all you need. I build up a pretty sweet diff and I use ceramic balls w/Shuie diff grease. And more often than not a simple cleaning of the spur gear holes leaves you with a crunch-free diff.
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Old 11-12-2010, 04:00 PM   #35135
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Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
I know this is a very specific long shot but I'm going to ask anyways. Does anyone have a T-bar car setup with a 1s NON-saddle pack LiPo, LRP SPX and a 1s LiPo Rx pack? If so, could you please post a pic for me? I'm struggling with how to lay everything out on my chassis. It's an L4 with the main pack on the right side. Thanks in advance!
Bueller....?
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Old 11-12-2010, 04:48 PM   #35136
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Questions??

I have a neube question......

I just got a RC12R5 My First carpet car....
and the setup that was recommended to me has the front wheels set at 2 degrees camber.
I also just got an Ofna tire truer,
which has adjustments for angle cuts up to 2 degrees

BUT I was told that I should cut my front tires straight not at an angle,
Is that the "accepted" wisdom??????

It just seems to me that I would get better contact, increased traction & longer tire wear if I cut them at an angle.

So is it straight or angle????????
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Old 11-12-2010, 04:52 PM   #35137
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The 4-dot (****) timing on the LRP X-12 motors, anyone know what actual number that works out to be? Also what about these 1s rotors, are you guys adding more teeth to the pinion with them/what are you guys rollout with them on a 90' X 45' track?
One more question- with running spec (no boost) classes, is it a good idea to run close to maximum motor endbell timing?
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Old 11-12-2010, 05:41 PM   #35138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silversam View Post
I have a neube question......

I just got a RC12R5 My First carpet car....
and the setup that was recommended to me has the front wheels set at 2 degrees camber.
I also just got an Ofna tire truer,
which has adjustments for angle cuts up to 2 degrees

BUT I was told that I should cut my front tires straight not at an angle,
Is that the "accepted" wisdom??????

It just seems to me that I would get better contact, increased traction & longer tire wear if I cut them at an angle.

So is it straight or angle????????
cut them with no taper. in gross terms the camber is set to get even tire wear. think contact patch condiiton in the corner, with caster camber and body roll combined. people do finetune for driving style but if they get very uneven wear then things are likely off elsewhere.
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Old 11-12-2010, 06:16 PM   #35139
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Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
Bueller....?
Just substitute a receiver pack for the booster.





this works but the car will be better with a saddle pack
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Old 11-12-2010, 07:57 PM   #35140
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Originally Posted by PDX-Spike View Post
No, the point is, you still haven't answered my original question.

"Are you absolutely certain that this product [LiPo receiver pack] is better than a LiFe? If so, tell us why it is better"

Why would someone choose a LiPo, along with the extra hardware that is needed on many systems, instead of a LiFe? Don't say it's because you need a different charger. My LiFe charges just fine with my LiPo charger.
If you want a faster transit time from your servo while maintaining linearity, get the lipo.
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Old 11-13-2010, 12:21 AM   #35141
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Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
The 4-dot (****) timing on the LRP X-12 motors, anyone know what actual number that works out to be? Also what about these 1s rotors, are you guys adding more teeth to the pinion with them/what are you guys rollout with them on a 90' X 45' track?
One more question- with running spec (no boost) classes, is it a good idea to run close to maximum motor endbell timing?
Anyone? Bueller?
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Old 11-13-2010, 12:25 AM   #35142
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Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
Just substitute a receiver pack for the booster. this works but the car will be better with a saddle pack
Thanks OD, that's just what I needed to see to get the wiring sorted. I know the saddle packs are the correct choice with a T-Bar car but as I'm on a budget and 2 LiPo fell into my lap for the price of one saddle pack, I couldn't really turn it down. Besides, if I am able to get out and race a lot this winter I'll be picking up a DB12RR so I won't need the saddles
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Old 11-13-2010, 06:24 AM   #35143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
The 4-dot (****) timing on the LRP X-12 motors, anyone know what actual number that works out to be? Also what about these 1s rotors, are you guys adding more teeth to the pinion with them/what are you guys rollout with them on a 90' X 45' track?
One more question- with running spec (no boost) classes, is it a good idea to run close to maximum motor endbell timing?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
Anyone? Bueller?
the 4 dot is i believe 40 and i have seen setups with max motor and no timing esc
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Old 11-14-2010, 02:22 AM   #35144
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Hi guys,

Looking to seek some valuable inputs from the gurus here,

Im looking to get back in to RC , looking at a pre-owned AE12R5 but they have the new 5.1 out for lipo n brushless

Would the handling differ alot between the R5 n R5.1 if I used brushless n 1s lipo ? ... except prolly the motor mounting would be a little bit harder to excess

Thanks guys
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Old 11-14-2010, 09:25 AM   #35145
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Originally Posted by Vesa View Post
For those who are interested in upgrade kits for 1/12, V-Dezign Carpet Ripper 4.0 version will be out soon. Email me vesa@v-dezign.net for more info, pricing and availability. Also US distributor is wanted! Check also www.v-dezign.net Reports below and more will be updated to the website soon!
V-Dezign Carpet Ripper 4.0

anyone running this car in America?

seems to popular in Europe
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