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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-10-2010, 06:54 AM   #35086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHI/BMI racer View Post
Read carefully people... Not a voltage booster for the ESC a voltage booster to the transponder... It makes sure it gets voltage when battery is running low so you don't get a missed lap... Anyway get the novak one, I been running it for 4 years still going strong.
You can order from RC-mushroom although a lot of places have it... Maybe give Novak USA a call...

If you are concerned about low voltage to the transponder towards the end of a run, would you not also have less voltage for the servo as well? That is why most run a receiver pack, which then powers the servo and transponder, leaving all the voltage in the 1s lipo for the motor. Just seems to make more sense.

My 2 cents
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Old 11-10-2010, 10:01 AM   #35087
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Default LiFe Rx packs

Does anybody have a good source for LiFe Rx packs? >200mAh would be good.
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Old 11-10-2010, 10:36 AM   #35088
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Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
If you are concerned about low voltage to the transponder towards the end of a run, would you not also have less voltage for the servo as well? That is why most run a receiver pack, which then powers the servo and transponder, leaving all the voltage in the 1s lipo for the motor. Just seems to make more sense.

My 2 cents

Good point but not from my experience... The transponder needs less voltage then the servo so if the servo is acting up the battery is dumped big time... been there done that... the problem with the transponder is that for those last few laps when the motor is drawing so much from the battery it might draw it away from the transponder and make you miss the lap... As I mentioned happened to me before I dumped but close to it. Receiver pack or booster is personal preference and I have seen it work both ways... I prefer the booster but will be upgrading to the new LRP SXX V2 with the booster built in

Good luck

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Old 11-10-2010, 11:32 AM   #35089
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Just a quick tire question for the 12th scale gurus on this thread! If I'm looking for more general rotation through a corner is it better to go to a softer tire on the front or a harder compound on the rear? Under what conditions would you favour one approach over the other?

Thanks in advance for your ideas!

Cheers,
Mike
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Old 11-10-2010, 11:33 AM   #35090
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Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike View Post
Just a quick tire question for the 12th scale gurus on this thread! If I'm looking for more general rotation through a corner is it better to go to a softer tire on the front or a harder compound on the rear? Under what conditions would you favour one approach over the other?

Thanks in advance for your ideas!

Cheers,
Mike
YES, or you could change your set-up a little bit. You may just want to ask Ian Ruggles (lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program)
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Old 11-10-2010, 11:39 AM   #35091
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?????....nevermind, sorry to have bothered you.
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Old 11-10-2010, 11:44 AM   #35092
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What I mean is:

You can use a softer tire up front --- Sometimes you will get loose through the run.

You can use a harder tire in the rear --- Typically not the way to go.

You can change your set-up --- Thinner lube in the dampner tubes, softer front springs, harder top spring, more camber in the front, etc, etc, etc.
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Old 11-10-2010, 02:43 PM   #35093
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Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
There's nothing wrong with the Queen's English

Though SlowerOne speaks it far more accurately than me

Trev
Nothing wrong with it at all. It's just that over here so many people only speak Bush's American
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Old 11-10-2010, 02:52 PM   #35094
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
I still say, if you want to reduce your diff maintenance and increase your reliability; run a thrust bearing. If you are bent on having the silkiest diff and don't mind keeping a constant eye on it; use the cone washer.

Brian
There speaks someone who knows, and to whom one should listen carefully. Thanks, Brian.

Quote:
Originally Posted by avs View Post
what do you mean by ball race? i presume thrust race means a thrust bearing (like splapmaster), but 'ball race' means what? are you referring to the thrust bearing with races replaced with flat washers?
Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
He means using the ball bearing in the outer part of the hub as the thrust, the way most of the cars like 12R5 etc come. He's just hard to understand sometimes because he speaks the Queen's english
You guys, what are you like!

Quote:
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ah-so! thank you for translating, Egnlish is my second language.
As George Bernard Shaw said "England and America are two great nations separated by a common language"

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
There's nothing wrong with the Queen's English

Though SlowerOne speaks it far more accurately than me

Trev
Cor blimey guv, what a gent you are!! For those in the land of the five time zones, that needs to be said by Dick Van Dyke using that crazy cockney accent he failed to pull off in the film Mary Poppins - horrendous!!

When we say we are "mad about a flat", we mean we are very keen on a new apartment and you mean you are mad about having a nail in your tyre (sorry, tire!). OK, I'll get my coat...
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Old 11-10-2010, 03:13 PM   #35095
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I realize this question will be dependent upon a number of factors, however I'm looking for a better general understanding of how a 1/12 scale should react overall (on carpet). Specifically, I feel that I have to wait a little too long in most corners to get back on throttle. Many setup and tire changes have had various affects on this (good and bad), however it just always seems this way. I've been racing 1/12 scale for the past year or two so I know what my car can do, however I'm not totally sure what it "should" do. As a general rule of thumb is a well setup car able to get on power in the turns early and often ? Maybe another way to say this is, if the car were perfect could you almost drive full throttle the entire track ? I do realize this would not be the fastest way around the track, but hope you get my point. Or, am I just expecting too much from the car ? This could be the case as it is by far the most fun car I've driven over the years. Thanks !
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Old 11-10-2010, 03:31 PM   #35096
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Different cars will demand different driving styles to get the best, but rule of thumb, higher cornering speeds will give faster laps. Always be weary of the pay off..... ie getting on the throttle harder may feel faster, but if it puts you on the wrong line for the next corner etc, it will not be faster.

It sounds like you have an on power push going on? First question would be front tires.....

Remember to be weary of the pay off of having more on power steering. Usually for me, it means more off power steering too, and usually that means mine starts to hook on the front tires on entry. I like a car that pushes a little and slowly make small changes to get just enough corner grip. Reason.... the car can then make really nice FAST arcs through a corner, and my car exits SO much faster than the cars who take much tighter 'point to point' driving lines. This has other positive effects, lower temps, more room to gear up etc etc etc.

Not sure if that answered your question or not, but reply with some more info and we will see what we can suggest.
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Old 11-10-2010, 03:35 PM   #35097
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Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1 View Post
Does anybody have a good source for LiFe Rx packs? >200mAh would be good.
Forget LiFe, check this one out:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=HBZ1017
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Old 11-10-2010, 03:46 PM   #35098
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Hi guys, there seems to be quite alot of talk regarding missed laps due to transponder's not sending out a decent signal due to low voltage. I reckon that this could be overcome by placing the timing loop in a better position, ie, not where cars are travelling under full, or almost full acceleration. If the loop is at a place where the throttle is not open (going into a slower corner for example), then the full voltage will be available to power the transponder and hopefully no more missed laps! Only an idea chaps!!
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Old 11-10-2010, 06:22 PM   #35099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike View Post
Just a quick tire question for the 12th scale gurus on this thread! If I'm looking for more general rotation through a corner is it better to go to a softer tire on the front or a harder compound on the rear? Under what conditions would you favour one approach over the other?

Thanks in advance for your ideas!

Cheers,
Mike
I'm of the mindset that rotation is generally a result of set-up at the rear of the car.

If the track has decent bite, sometimes a harder tire will actually limit rotation. In most instances a Yellow rear will offer more rotation, and also more forward bite than a grey rear. At the Halloween Classic this year, I started on Yellow rears. The car rotated well, but had an on-power push at corner exit. I switched to Grey rears, and lost a bit of rotation, but the car gained exit steering because of the reduction in forward bite. Consequently the car was smoother and easier to drive.

Thinner tube lube, stiffer shock spring, and stiffer side springs can also increase rotation. My first choice is usually to reduce dampening, next I'll change the spring. If these two options don't give me the feel I'm looking for, I'd then try different tires.
If the new tires get the car "out of the carpet" then the goal has been met. If not I'll then change to stiffer side springs.

This is all assuming that you have enough front-grip to carry the car through the corner. If the car turns-in well, and washes out mid-corner,(which would obviously limit rotation), either the front springs are too stiff, or there's not enough camber.
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Last edited by CypressMidWest; 11-10-2010 at 06:35 PM.
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Old 11-11-2010, 12:16 AM   #35100
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Are you absolutely certain that this product is better than a LiFe? If so, tell us why it is better.
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