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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-24-2003, 06:03 AM   #3496
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Default

I normally run 3-4mm of ride height. i also run a 100 or 98 tooth spur gear and never really adjust it (it just depnds what the hobby shop has in stock, lol). the only time i have really changed my spur was for the paved nats a month ago, since i didnt want to run a giant 100tooth pinion, lol, i ended up going to a 86 tooth spur and a 33 pinion (it was a large track to say the least)

but always keep track of your ride height and tweak! (thats really all you have to do to at the track, since diffs and shocks and tubes can go a few weeks without maitnence).
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Old 07-24-2003, 07:47 AM   #3497
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Default Re: Getting started

Quote:
Originally posted by John Robb
Hello everyone,

I spoke to a guy that runs at Mimi's in Maryland, and he said that rollout for stock should be around 48. I have a set of full TRC foams (purple and grey) and running a Monster stock motor.
Thanks,
John

That was about what I have been running at Mimi's.

I geared both STK and 19T around 46~48 roll out.

And 10X1 around 34~37 roll out. But I usually dumped on the MOD, doesn't know how to drive it yet lol: .....I'm working on it though.

Mike D take me to MOD school this indoor season please!:
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Old 07-24-2003, 08:01 AM   #3498
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Default Re: Getting started

Quote:
Originally posted by John Robb


Mike D. - I especially invite your input because I know that you
know Mimi's very well, race 1/12, and have probably had a 12L3 along the way. Also, Mike does it help the performance of your Keyence to add their motor capacitors or are the ones that come premounted sufficient.

Thanks,
John
John - 12L setup for Mimi's : trailing front axles (stock kit parts), reactive front end, castor shims - one front and one back, 18 or 20 springs depending on traction, 30 wt oil in shock, associated green spring, .075 t-bar, 3 screws on t-bar/pod, associated diff lube on damper discs, Jaco Purple front at 44mm, Jaco Grey rear at 49mm, ride height 3.5-4 mm front and rear, Paragon full rear, 1/2 to 3/4 inside front.

Spur gear size doesn't note make a noticable difference. I use either a 96 or 98. You need to add washers under the front arms to lower the ride height. I would gear a monster stock at mimi's at about 45-46 rollout.

As far as motor cap's... you can use any standard cap on motors that dont have surface mounts. DO NOT add cap's to motors with surface mount cap's.
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Old 07-24-2003, 08:04 AM   #3499
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Default Re: Re: Getting started

Quote:
Originally posted by komkit
That was about what I have been running at Mimi's.

I geared both STK and 19T around 46~48 roll out.

And 10X1 around 34~37 roll out. But I usually dumped on the MOD, doesn't know how to drive it yet lol: .....I'm working on it though.

Mike D take me to MOD school this indoor season please!:
Komkit - I think I geared my 10 turn at about 40 rollout. It is a big track. I just run a big gear and don't hammer the throttle. It's smoother on the infield and faster on the straight.
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Old 07-24-2003, 08:29 AM   #3500
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D. Powell, D. Root, Stormperson, Komkit, and Mike D. -

Looks like I'll be in great shape with you alls advice. Mike D. - thanks for the specifics on the car. When I become consistent I'll try the IRS conversion. Now I can get rolling and have some fun.

John
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Old 07-24-2003, 09:19 AM   #3501
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Default Tire Choice

Carpet:

Jaco (purple front/ Gray rear)

What compounds are best for carpet from the other tire manufacturers?

TRC???

Thanks
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Old 07-24-2003, 01:55 PM   #3502
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TRC: Grey rears or Granite rears, Purple fronts or Cyan fronts
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Old 07-24-2003, 02:00 PM   #3503
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Default Tire diameter

To David Powell and others,

Is there a standard difference between the diameter of the front and rear tires. D. Powell you gave the example of 1.80" fronts and 1.90" rears. Would that .10" difference be the standard even as the diameter decreases due to wear? Does it have anything to do with your preference for the amount of weight transfere under breaking and cornering?

John R.
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Old 07-24-2003, 02:37 PM   #3504
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I just run em, I am a cheap (#&*^(&#. As they wear, I adjust for ride height. I run em until I can't make minimum height any more, then put on new CRC tires that are already trued.

David Root
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Old 07-24-2003, 06:03 PM   #3505
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John,
You can't count on the .10" difference that I mentioned to remain constant as the tires wear. Some track configurations may cause the fronts to wear faster, others may cause the rears to wear faster. The amount of traction compound used and driving style will contribute to tire wear as well. One problem that I have run into is deciding at what point to change the rear ride height adjusters. There is a .050" difference from one setting to the next but tires don't wear in .050" increments. One adjuster may make the car too low and another may make it too high.

Doug
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Old 07-24-2003, 06:55 PM   #3506
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Thanks DRoot, DPowell

It's too bad that smaller increments in rear ride height aren't possible. I'm guessing that's when cutting the tires comes into play. I was just courious whether the difference in diameter made much of a difference in handling.

John
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Old 07-24-2003, 07:25 PM   #3507
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Default Re: Re: Re: Getting started

Quote:
Originally posted by Mike D
Komkit - I think I geared my 10 turn at about 40 rollout. It is a big track. I just run a big gear and don't hammer the throttle. It's smoother on the infield and faster on the straight.

That was the hardest part

That's why I often dumped, don't have the throttle's skillz.
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Old 07-24-2003, 08:35 PM   #3508
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Well is John Robb running mod, 19T or stock. So that's Uneke, Geppetto, Komkit, Isaac and John running 12th scale?

Mike D. I am personally handing you my IRS 12th. I need the spacers under the T-bar. The rear pod is higher than the main part of the chassis. You're gonna set me up anyway right? Anyway I don't need the aggressive steering that you like. Stock will probably do me just fine.
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Old 07-24-2003, 09:06 PM   #3509
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Default Side springs on 12L3?

Anyone tried converting 12L3 to crc six pack side springs and tube setup? Does it work???
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Old 07-24-2003, 11:14 PM   #3510
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Default Re: Side springs on 12L3?

Quote:
Originally posted by Jimmyd
Anyone tried converting 12L3 to crc six pack side springs and tube setup? Does it work???
I only did the damper tubes convertion, looks promising, still have to tune it more.
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