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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-08-2010, 10:53 AM   #35056
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Make sure you are using a nylon nut and not an aluminum lock nut. Without the spring washer in there the flex of the nylon becomes your spring. The adjustment is very fine because of not having a spring so it may just be that you are not used to it.
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Old 11-08-2010, 01:18 PM   #35057
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I know this is a very specific long shot but I'm going to ask anyways. Does anyone have a T-bar car setup with a 1s NON-saddle pack LiPo, LRP SPX and a 1s LiPo Rx pack? If so, could you please post a pic for me? I'm struggling with how to lay everything out on my chassis. It's an L4 with the main pack on the right side. Thanks in advance!
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Old 11-08-2010, 01:35 PM   #35058
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Originally Posted by kdempsey View Post
Hi,

Has anyone fitted and used this updates shaft from Serpent?

http://serpent.com/product/411250/

I have and cant set the diff to work correctly it is either really tight or way to loose with the slightest bit of ajustment? I have built it up without thrust bearing as they say and just using collar, spring washers and nut.

If anyone could tell me what I am doing wrong or even show me a picture if theirs that would be cool. I'll post a picture of mine when I get home tonight.

Thanks

Keith
the serpent diff uses a belleville washer, a pair actually. they look like washers but they are cupped, they need to be stacked so that there holes are in contact and the outer rings are seperated. (look at the serpent manual again and you will see what i mean0 this should create a spring effect that makes the diff less touchy.

this approach is pretty common, CRC and AE also used belleville washers in their diffs, but just 1.
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Old 11-08-2010, 06:22 PM   #35059
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I don't understand the rush to eliminate the thrust washer. If you use a good one like Corally or Slapmaster, and build it right, it will last nearly forever and it is only a few extra grams of weight. When you tighten a diff cone against the bearing in the hub, you are asking the bearing to do a job it isn't designed for, and guaranteeing you will have to replace it frequently to maintain a smooth diff.
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Old 11-08-2010, 06:34 PM   #35060
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Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
I don't understand the rush to eliminate the thrust washer. If you use a good one like Corally or Slapmaster, and build it right, it will last nearly forever and it is only a few extra grams of weight. When you tighten a diff cone against the bearing in the hub, you are asking the bearing to do a job it isn't designed for, and guaranteeing you will have to replace it frequently to maintain a smooth diff.
While the thrust bearing does increase longevity the trade-off is that itadds drag. A diff built without a thrust bearing will be "freer"
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Old 11-08-2010, 06:53 PM   #35061
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Default thrust bearing

For those who already have a slapmaster thrust bearing and have found it to add more drag than you like, it spins much more freely and works great if you flip the two slapmaster washers so that their flat surfaces touch the caged balls rather than the machined-in groove side. With the flipped flat washers, my thrust bearing equipped diff now spins just as free as it did when I used a regular diff cone riding on the outer bearing. The more "normal" diff cone setup (without a thrust bearing) does ask that plain outer bearing to do a job that it doesn't like. Time will tell how long this revised slapmaster assembly will last. After a full weekend of running mod, it stayed super smooth and totally free. Seems like that was a good suggestion that Brian posted a while back.
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Old 11-08-2010, 07:37 PM   #35062
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Darn how did I miss that post! I'll have to go back and find it.
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Old 11-08-2010, 07:51 PM   #35063
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
While the thrust bearing does increase longevity the trade-off is that itadds drag. A diff built without a thrust bearing will be "freer"
And last just as long if its properly maintained. But I check over my entire car after every race day; nothing else to do while I wait 2 weeks to run again, lol.
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:01 PM   #35064
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Questions?? PLEASE RESPOND

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Originally Posted by Dave De Voe View Post
how much is the average drop in rollout going to timing?form what i have been hearing it is about 10mm or 5 teeth on the pinion less. is this the "rule of the thumb"?


I'll ask again
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:26 PM   #35065
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My diff is free. it will turn against the drag of the motor. And the diff will do it's job even with a bit of drag. Spinning diffs are overrated. In most cases the only difference between a "free" diff and one with a bit of drag is a slight difference in rear bite, very slight.
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:35 PM   #35066
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Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
My diff is free. it will turn against the drag of the motor. And the diff will do it's job even with a bit of drag. Spinning diffs are overrated. In most cases the only difference between a "free" diff and one with a bit of drag is a slight difference in rear bite, very slight.
Depends on the layout. A superfree diff is indispensible on a track with several 180's.
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Old 11-09-2010, 01:23 AM   #35067
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Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
My diff is free. it will turn against the drag of the motor. And the diff will do it's job even with a bit of drag. Spinning diffs are overrated. In most cases the only difference between a "free" diff and one with a bit of drag is a slight difference in rear bite, very slight.
I used to think that as well as I used to only run on asphalt. After running carpet a few times now I was quite surprised how much of a difference it made there.
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Old 11-09-2010, 02:48 PM   #35068
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Originally Posted by Dave De Voe View Post
how much is the average drop in rollout going to timing?form what i have been hearing it is about 10mm or 5 teeth on the pinion less. is this the "rule of the thumb"?
I usually drop 6-7 teeth and then go up from their depending on temp. I drop that many just to make sure i dont burn anything up.
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Old 11-09-2010, 02:49 PM   #35069
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Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
My diff is free. it will turn against the drag of the motor. And the diff will do it's job even with a bit of drag. Spinning diffs are overrated. In most cases the only difference between a "free" diff and one with a bit of drag is a slight difference in rear bite, very slight.
In a class where tenths count because you're losing them for eight minutes, not five, very slight isn't good enough. A free, but slip-free diff is an essential component of a good handling 12th car.

Thrust races make the diff stiff and 'lazy'. There is nothing wrong with the ballrace used as a thrust race providing the diff is glass smooth and has absolutely no slip at all. They last much longer if you have a belleville washer between the nut and the thrust cone, as this takes the side knocks when you hit the boards.

I have run Corally thrust races for ages, and couldn't believe the improvement in turn in and power out from corners when I switched back to a ballrace. The ballrace must be very clean - no grease or oil - and then have one drop of synthetic oil in it to help with friction on the cage. Any grease or thick oil and the ballrace will slip, meaning you have to do the diff up tighter.

Here's the definitive diff-building advice from the man himself - Dave Irrgang.

http://www.teamirsrc.com/techtips.html

One last tip - make sure to use a steel ballrace, and not a ceramic one. The ceramic ones have to be done up tighter as they slip more due to the ceramic coating. HTH
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Old 11-09-2010, 03:35 PM   #35070
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Good thing Bodine wasn't using a ballrace in Vegas. Otherwise he may have really blown everyone out of the water.
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