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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-29-2010, 11:02 PM   #35026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mauromj View Post
Im really not sure. I would test it with a 2s battery, but I dont have one at the moment. Well it works with the red wire out, Ill just run it like that I guess!
I just thought of something:

Maybe the SP LPFv2 switch cuts out 'everything' including the power and the signal when it is in the 'OFF' position. (Because in SPv2, they moved the setup button to where the switch is, so there must be a micro circuit on the switch itself)

Since option 2 works for you, then don't worry about it. Just go out and have fun!
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Old 10-30-2010, 09:28 AM   #35027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whynot View Post
When I put my ch12 out for the first time it was really hard to drive, You say it is taking a severe beating have you tried the spacers on the front end that jason had made up. He done some testing and figured out a way to settle the car down alot and he ended up with his best lap times when he done so. I would look into that if i was you so you dont have to continue testing the durability lol. My son and I ended up going back to the gen xl before jason came up with a way to settle the car down. out of the box the crc is alot easier to drive and the ch12 is very aggressive and edgy. It is a really nice car and great build.
I've found the CH12 easy to tune and driving with the RS Pro in "spec mode" was fairly easy, but once I copied some of the Tekin team drivers setup sheets I was in big trouble. The CH12 has hung on like a champ as I've been slamming it into the walls. The amount of speed I can carry through the corners is hard to get used to. The awesomeness of the thing is distracting. . . I am too busy smiling.
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Old 10-30-2010, 06:46 PM   #35028
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Hey guys, I need some advice for the rear end setup on a 12r5.1 in 17.5 nonboosted.
Last week Black fronts/ Grey rears were hooked up(CRC carpet), but the layout was changed and now 2x Pink front/Magenta rears were hooking up(a whole second faster).
My trouble comes still with the rear end. Going into a corner and throughout the beginning of turn in, the rear end slides or skips out. It causes the diff to slip and results in slowing down.
Now, not all the turns are point and shoot and going a little wide to carry speed had helped out, but occasionally through the sweeper it would essentially 'skip' to the left, other turns it would 'skip' to the right.
With the Grey rears the rear end would slide out, with Magentas it would skip or hop over. I had guys telling me anything from full pod droop, no front camber, go back to Grey tires etc etc and nothing worked. In fact some suggestions were so out of left field I didn't bother trying them.

In essence, I'd get 3/4 of the way through a turn and then the rear end would hop over, turning me the last 1/4 of the turn.

Thanks guys
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Old 10-30-2010, 08:01 PM   #35029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew-01 View Post
Hey guys, I need some advice for the rear end setup on a 12r5.1 in 17.5 nonboosted.
Last week Black fronts/ Grey rears were hooked up(CRC carpet), but the layout was changed and now 2x Pink front/Magenta rears were hooking up(a whole second faster).
My trouble comes still with the rear end. Going into a corner and throughout the beginning of turn in, the rear end slides or skips out. It causes the diff to slip and results in slowing down.
Now, not all the turns are point and shoot and going a little wide to carry speed had helped out, but occasionally through the sweeper it would essentially 'skip' to the left, other turns it would 'skip' to the right.
With the Grey rears the rear end would slide out, with Magentas it would skip or hop over. I had guys telling me anything from full pod droop, no front camber, go back to Grey tires etc etc and nothing worked. In fact some suggestions were so out of left field I didn't bother trying them.

In essence, I'd get 3/4 of the way through a turn and then the rear end would hop over, turning me the last 1/4 of the turn.

Thanks guys
Have you tried a Yellow or White Rear tire?
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Old 10-30-2010, 08:08 PM   #35030
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I'm not so convinced that's its a rear tire issue; it would be nice if you told us your complete setup....
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Old 10-30-2010, 08:33 PM   #35031
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Tires:
F-43mm 2x Pink
R-45mm Magenta

Front end
3.5mm ride height
.20 springs(30k diff fluid)
3 shims behind wheel(wider front track)
.5-1.0 camber
3.25 caster
5 reactive caster
front upper arms moved in 2mm(longer upper link)
.5 toe out

Pod
3.5mm ride height
Blue side springs-no preload
Gold center spring
25wt in both side and center shock

Rear end
172mm wide
3.5mm ride height

746grams
ssx esc - no timing
x12 motor
4600 reedy
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Old 10-30-2010, 08:36 PM   #35032
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Years ago, our 12Ls used to do something like that because they were dragging on the track. You can try raising the front and rear ride height to see if it improves. Other options include stiffer center spring, stiffer side springs, or increase cross damper oil weight.
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Old 10-31-2010, 02:35 AM   #35033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew-01 View Post
Tires:
F-43mm 2x Pink
R-45mm Magenta

Front end
3.5mm ride height
.20 springs(30k diff fluid)
3 shims behind wheel(wider front track)
.5-1.0 camber
3.25 caster
5 reactive caster
front upper arms moved in 2mm(longer upper link)
.5 toe out

Pod
3.5mm ride height
Blue side springs-no preload
Gold center spring
25wt in both side and center shock

Rear end
172mm wide
3.5mm ride height

746grams
ssx esc - no timing
x12 motor
4600 reedy
Things to check:
- Make sure main chassis is level and not higher toward the rear.
- If the rear pod droop is less than 1mm, try increasing it to 1 to 1.5 mm.
- Make sure diff/spur gear is tight; you should not be getting slip anywhere on the track, but make sure the differential action is free. Too much drag in the differential action can cause the problem you describe.
- It sounds like maybe the front tires are really digging in...43mm 2x pink fronts create a lot of bite. If you don't already you should try putting CA on your front tire sidewalls to limit front tire outside edge rollover in the corners. Also make sure the edges have a small radius on them, not a sharp corner.
- When you check camber, push out gently on the top of the tire to make sure you are getting an accurate reading. This takes out any play in the suspension. You may want to try 1 to 1 1/4 degrees of camber to smooth out the front end through the corner.
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Old 10-31-2010, 05:16 AM   #35034
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Andrew,
your set up looks normal. You may want to try pink rears instead of magenta for low grip and yellow rears instead of grey once the grip comes up.

You may also want to try removing the shims behind the front wheels and spacing out the lower a-arm instead. Shimming the wheel makes the jacking effect due to caster more pronouced which can lift the inside causing snap oversteer you describe. Widening the car at the lower a-arm doesn't do that. You may have to place shims between the front wheel and nut to take up the slack.



Good luck,
Etienne
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Old 11-03-2010, 12:07 AM   #35035
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Guys, thank you very much for your help and advice. I'll be sure to write these suggestions down to try out at the track.

A side note, per a 12r5.1, when assembling the upper arms and attaching the ball ends. If the upper ball end is at an angle, is that effectively changing the caster?

I included a screen shot below to better explain.



Here the upper ball end is essentially flat with the steering block, if it were tilted for/aft, would that be effecting the travel thus inducing/reducing caster?
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Old 11-03-2010, 12:35 AM   #35036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew-01 View Post
Guys, thank you very much for your help and advice. I'll be sure to write these suggestions down to try out at the track.

A side note, per a 12r5.1, when assembling the upper arms and attaching the ball ends. If the upper ball end is at an angle, is that effectively changing the caster?

I included a screen shot below to better explain.



Here the upper ball end is essentially flat with the steering block, if it were tilted for/aft, would that be effecting the travel thus inducing/reducing caster?
The ball end itself will not change the amount of caster you have, the clips that you put in between the upper arm and caster block does that (ones that clip onto the upper hinge pins).

I think the upper ball ends ideally should just be positioned parallel to the top of the ball that is inside it (i.e. perpendicular to the kingpin angle if viewed form the side). If not it might hinder the arm movement.

Heres another question.

On my 5.1, the balls are pretty tight inside the eyelets, are they removable once snapped in? Will replacing with the coated steel balls from AE relieve the problem? Any other tips on freeing them up?
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Old 11-03-2010, 12:40 AM   #35037
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Originally Posted by rc_square24 View Post
The ball end itself will not change the amount of caster you have, the clips that you put in between the upper arm and caster block does that (ones that clip onto the upper hinge pins).

I think the upper ball ends ideally should just be positioned parallel to the top of the ball that is inside it (i.e. perpendicular to the kingpin angle if viewed form the side). If not it might hinder the arm movement.

Heres another question.

On my 5.1, the balls are pretty tight inside the eyelets, are they removable once snapped in? Will replacing with the coated steel balls from AE relieve the problem? Any other tips on freeing them up?


Thanks for that. Regarding the eyelets, I use the CRC ball end 'popper' and pop them in and out till they're free.

CRC:
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7718876

Left hander-rc has a few:
http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=48
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Old 11-03-2010, 03:41 PM   #35038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_square24 View Post
The ball end itself will not change the amount of caster you have, the clips that you put in between the upper arm and caster block does that (ones that clip onto the upper hinge pins).

I think the upper ball ends ideally should just be positioned parallel to the top of the ball that is inside it (i.e. perpendicular to the kingpin angle if viewed form the side). If not it might hinder the arm movement.

Heres another question.

On my 5.1, the balls are pretty tight inside the eyelets, are they removable once snapped in? Will replacing with the coated steel balls from AE relieve the problem? Any other tips on freeing them up?

There's a few things you can do...

A. Pop them in and out several times with the pivot ball tool
B. With a kingpin in the pivot ball in the arm/eyelet, squeeze the arm/eyelet with a pair of pliers. It seems to set the ball and free it up.
C. If it is not a new front end, clean everything with a q-tip and motor spray.

I have tried every type of pivot ball for the AE and CRC front end, and the easiest no hassle way has alays been the plastic balls. They always seem to be smoother, and in the AE they lasted forever for me.
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Old 11-04-2010, 05:21 AM   #35039
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RC12 5/5.1R

what's the part number for the full front end kit?
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Old 11-04-2010, 07:35 AM   #35040
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