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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-26-2010, 02:48 AM   #34996
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
Which is the best ype of shock ?? The corally type or tye bladder type ??

I find the corally a bit difficult to build and then after a day of running it is full of air

I am used to the bladder typedue to my touring car experience and i race a T3 so i know Xrays quality is awsome

Thanks again Phil
Wanna try my Associated shock? I'm at the Mach track saturday.

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Old 10-26-2010, 06:40 AM   #34997
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
Which is the best ype of shock ?? The corally type or tye bladder type ??

I find the corally a bit difficult to build and then after a day of running it is full of air

I am used to the bladder typedue to my touring car experience and i race a T3 so i know Xrays quality is awsome

Thanks again Phil
Try a CRC or Hotbodies shock
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Old 10-26-2010, 07:39 AM   #34998
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Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
Wanna try my Associated shock? I'm at the Mach track saturday.

Robert
Are you racing on sunday too ??

Me , Pieter and joey are there
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Old 10-26-2010, 07:47 AM   #34999
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Quick question,

If I run a lipo receive pack (7.4v 200 mah losi) directly to the reciever, wouldn't I need a HV servo or regulator?

I see people using the JR micro servos with these packs no problem, just worried my new KO won't hold up. Thanks!
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Old 10-26-2010, 07:54 AM   #35000
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Originally Posted by Andy Z View Post
Quick question,

If I run a lipo receive pack (7.4v 200 mah losi) directly to the reciever, wouldn't I need a HV servo or regulator?

I see people using the JR micro servos with these packs no problem, just worried my new KO won't hold up. Thanks!
check with robert at KO, but I believe that he said that 2s was fine for ko rx and servos
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Old 10-26-2010, 07:56 AM   #35001
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Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
Try a CRC or Hotbodies shock
Better make it CRC.....you can't find the HB shocks
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Old 10-26-2010, 10:31 AM   #35002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellowtaro View Post
I have a CRC Generation X. Do i have to use CRC tires due to offset issues? What tires and wheel can i use? Thanks.
I presume you are asking about rear tires. Use shims on the axle to set the rear track width. I use both CRC and Jaco tires. More shims are needed for Jaco rears than the CRC because the wheel offset for each is different.

The maximum rear width specified by ROAR is 172 mm. Use the centering hole on the rear pod to make sure each side is equal. A setup board works great for setting the width.
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Old 10-27-2010, 09:47 AM   #35003
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Default steering

My car "stops" in the corners as if it understeers or the overall grip is too high. I have tried everything but maybe is thinking that the steering travel is too much.

I use the Hudy pan car setup system and I have 25% steering travel meassured with this system - can any of you let me know how much the top drivers have?

The cars stops so much as it looks like the speedo uses motor break, but I use 12.5mm rotor and the speedo is set without motor break but a lot of roll.

I have also tried to gear up the motor.
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Old 10-27-2010, 06:34 PM   #35004
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Not enough information here--- what tires? What car? What springs? What caster? What surface are you running on?
Sounds like your bite is WAY TOO HIGH!!!
Don't think your steering is the problem.
FYI
T
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Old 10-28-2010, 12:44 AM   #35005
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Originally Posted by timmig View Post
Not enough information here--- what tires? What car? What springs? What caster? What surface are you running on?
Sounds like your bite is WAY TOO HIGH!!!
Don't think your steering is the problem.
FYI
T
Tires are Jaco Pink in the rear and dbl pink front (front side with glue). Car is Xray Link with pretty much standard setup. Carpet flat surface, with medium/high grip. Caster is close to highest.

I need to find approx 0.2 sec compared to the fast guys (lap times are low 10 sec/high 9 sec).

I use CS High grip additive.
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:03 AM   #35006
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Originally Posted by PH View Post
Caster is close to highest.
what does this mean. ar the king pins leaned all the way back or are the standing straight up?
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Old 10-28-2010, 10:29 AM   #35007
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Default what to choose?

here is a question i would like your opinion too. i'm thinking of trying something different for a chassis. i have ran associated for years and have had great success with them, however i want to try something different.

i am currently torn between the copper12 and the crc, what are some opinions out there, now before you answer please take in mind i dont want to get into the whole this is better (ford vs. gmc) debate. i would like a more detailed answer if you have time please.

to give you some back ground, we run on crc carpet which is laid down indoors over some bumpy asphalt. the surface is not glass smooth. it has some character but lots of grip!!!!!

please let me know your thoughts in relation to the question and why you think x would be better

thanks again
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Old 10-29-2010, 08:53 AM   #35008
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The new front end on the CH12 is better for bumps, it has the most travel of any pan car as far as I know. The double wishbone design is simply more adjustable and more adaptable. I have not owned a CRC but I do have the CH12 and I can tell you it will take a beating. I have not raced for over 20 years, I just picked up a CH12 this fall and dropped a 13.5 in. Believe me, this thing has been taking a severe beating and doesn't mind one bit.
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Old 10-29-2010, 02:43 PM   #35009
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[QUOTE=pmes;8138704]The new front end on the CH12 is better for bumps, it has the most travel of any pan car as far as I know. The double wishbone design is simply more adjustable and more adaptable. I have not owned a CRC but I do have the CH12 and I can tell you it will take a beating. I have not raced for over 20 years, I just picked up a CH12 this fall and dropped a 13.5 in. Believe me, this thing has been taking a severe beating and doesn't mind one bit.[/QUOTE

When I put my ch12 out for the first time it was really hard to drive, You say it is taking a severe beating have you tried the spacers on the front end that jason had made up. He done some testing and figured out a way to settle the car down alot and he ended up with his best lap times when he done so. I would look into that if i was you so you dont have to continue testing the durability lol. My son and I ended up going back to the gen xl before jason came up with a way to settle the car down. out of the box the crc is alot easier to drive and the ch12 is very aggressive and edgy. It is a really nice car and great build.
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Old 10-29-2010, 03:20 PM   #35010
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With our new front end there is alot of adjustment that you have to tune to different traction conditions. As with any 1/12th car, if the setup isnt right, it will be very edgy and hard to drive. I have helped guys tune there CRC, SpeedMerchant,AE,and X Ray 1/12th cars that were having nothing but hard times. What i always find is the setup is off or something is drastically wrong. All of the cars including ours handle exceptionally well when set up right. Flip side is they can be an absolute handfull if they are wrong.

Our double wishbone suspension is different than what you see available on other cars. It has alot more adjustment and can be fine tuned as you can adjust rollcenter, camber gain, static caster, static camber,droop,track width,and also adjust ride height without shimming the arms. Tire wear is much better also as the tires do not scrub like they do on a strut front end. All of the parts are machined with exception to the upper arm and steering blocks which are injection molded. There is no filing or reaming needed. It goes together just right.

As far as handling goes, Our car works extremely well as does the CRC car. The choice of car isnt going to make you win or lose as they are all high end race cars. It will come down to which one you like better to be honest. Some people like that the CRC car is more common at there local track so they go with that one. Some people like the quality, adjustability, and durability of our car so they go with ours. Its all personal preference. One way or another, if you get any of the cars set up correctly, you will be happy with anything out there. They are all great cars.
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