R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-22-2003, 08:13 AM   #3481
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 864
Default lem2

The "plastic things" you mentioned are the bearing carriers for the rear axle. Associated has those in 4 different sizes, that is there are 4 different heights of the axle in the motor pod. They are intended to give you the ability to adjust the height of the rear of your car to match the front or to carry the rear of the chassis at a pre-determined height from the racing surface. That is the best way to make the adjustments you refered. Good luck and good racing.
davidl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2003, 08:19 AM   #3482
Tech Elite
 
lem2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: OC
Posts: 3,061
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default Thanks DavidL

Thanks, sorry been sick the past 2 days, (rain drenched due to RC,better save the equipment first before yourself!!!)
and nothing to do except tinkering the cars!!! Thanks Again and Peace!!!
lem2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2003, 09:53 AM   #3483
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 3,105
Trader Rating: 62 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
one more thing: I use CRC lower motor pods...
hi lem2 did you order the CRC stuff online? im interested in getting those for my rc12. are they blue or silver anodized? can you run the rear tires to the rim when you use the lowest setting? hopefully, i can run a couple more battery packs per set of rear tires (against throwing the used donuts away) and itll pay for itself over a few weeks.
marvi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2003, 10:07 AM   #3484
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Newville,Pa
Posts: 2,152
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

You can order them here- http://www.teamcrc.com/teamcrc.cgi?p...=4702273_36141

or your LHS can order them for you the part nubers are :

4140- red annodized-$49.99
4141- blue onnodized-$49.99
4142-polished silver (natural)-$44.99
__________________
G's RC Raceway- Best off-road track on the east coast...period!!!

Pitman for Team Dallas Austin...
IMPACTPLAYR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2003, 11:24 AM   #3485
Tech Elite
 
trackdesigner71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Lynchburg/Portsmouth, VA
Posts: 4,978
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to trackdesigner71 Send a message via Yahoo to trackdesigner71
Default

Hey IMPACTPLAYR YGM
trackdesigner71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2003, 02:15 PM   #3486
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 427
Default

hey is it posible to buy a conversion or parts to make the associated car like the yokomo ssg car
.just wondering?
jiggamacdaddy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2003, 06:28 PM   #3487
Tech Elite
 
lem2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: OC
Posts: 3,061
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by jiggamacdaddy
hey is it posible to buy a conversion or parts to make the associated car like the yokomo ssg car
.just wondering?
yes its a direct fit, people use it mainly to change the battery position, bec, its more centered. Peace!!
lem2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2003, 07:10 PM   #3488
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 427
Default

can i get the part numbers for the ssg parts?
jiggamacdaddy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2003, 11:12 PM   #3489
Tech Addict
 
Jimmyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 705
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Finsy
Hi Jimmyd,

i dont think we've met...not i did not go for the RM race...the understeer that i experience is at MS track with both greens and Kawada Long life tires...


this is kawada tires right

please advice on what you used at MS

thanks
The MS track has very strange traction. It will make all pan cars undertseer badly be it 1/12 ,1/10 or F1. The only way to get accepatable handling there is to stiffen up the rear pod considerably. I think you should try the stiffest side springs on your car.
Jimmyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2003, 11:43 PM   #3490
Tech Adept
 
Finsy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 123
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Jimmyd
The MS track has very strange traction. It will make all pan cars undertseer badly be it 1/12 ,1/10 or F1. The only way to get accepatable handling there is to stiffen up the rear pod considerably. I think you should try the stiffest side springs on your car.
Jimmyd -

I notice that too...had to use soft front/medium rear for my F103 there to make it hook up...by the way the L rubber/long life foam is it from Kawada(Rotor??)
Finsy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2003, 12:01 AM   #3491
Tech Addict
 
Jimmyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 705
Default

Yes. kawada.
Jimmyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2003, 12:06 AM   #3492
Tech Adept
 
Finsy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 123
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Jimmyd
Yes. kawada.
Thanks buddy......
Finsy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2003, 04:29 PM   #3493
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 32
Default Getting started

Hello everyone,

I'm new to 1/12 scale and would appreciate some advice. I've learned some already just by reading this post. I've built a 12L3 which is mostly stock (added inline front axles and alum. servo mounts). I'm ready to go, but need some guidance regarding gearing and ride height. Specifically, are there certain advantages to using a certain spur size? Do I need several spur gears and related pinions, or one spur and a few pinion gears? I printed out the rollout conversion that was posted here several pages back, so that will help. I spoke to a guy that runs at Mimi's in Maryland, and he said that rollout for stock should be around 48. I have a set of full TRC foams (purple and grey) and running a Monster stock motor. I know that rear ride height is adjustable by way of kit inserts, but it appears that the only way to adjust the front is by adding more spacers.

Mike D. - I especially invite your input because I know that you
know Mimi's very well, race 1/12, and have probably had a 12L3 along the way. Also, Mike does it help the performance of your Keyence to add their motor capacitors or are the ones that come premounted sufficient.

Thanks,
John
John Robb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2003, 05:03 PM   #3494
Tech Regular
 
DPowell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 454
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

John,
Welcome to the forum. You are going to enjoy 1/12 scale.
On tire sizes and gears, you will get a wide variety of opinions.
I like to start with 1.90" rear tires and 1.80" front tires and adjust the ride height to about .140". Of course, as the tires wear, you will have to readjust your ride height. This will give you a starting point.
On the gearing, I like to stay slightly to the small side on the spur(96 or 98), this gives you more room for the pinion. The monster motor likes to be geared at least a couple teeth lower than other motors due to its RPM characteristics. Find out what other people are doing and gear yours similar.
Good luck and stay in touch.

D.P.
DPowell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2003, 06:39 PM   #3495
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 593
Default Just my $.02

I gear real close to a rollout of 40 or 41 for stock with a P2K2. Monster will like about the same or a little lower. You will get many opinions. This is on a smooth carpte road course 100 X 40 or like that.

Yes adjust your ride height as the tires wear. You will get the hang of it, the thing I needed and still need is time on the track.

Ride height at my track is a minimum of 1/8 and I stay close to that.

I always use a 100 or 98 spur. Pinions in the low twenties to thirty will suit you well.

All My opinion

Have fun
David Root
David Root is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:05 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0