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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-13-2010, 06:27 AM   #34906
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Originally Posted by WildManDriving View Post
On asphalt what is the difference in lap times between 1/10 touring car and 1/12 pan car? Pan cars look extremely fast in video's.
When the grip is high enough, the past 2 events ive run my 1/12 and Modified car at (2009 Aus Nationals and 2010 South Australian Titles) My 1/12 and Tourer have done the same lap time This was 3.7V on both equation in the 12th. Its more to do with the corner speed in 1/12

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Old 10-13-2010, 08:14 AM   #34907
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Originally Posted by Funky View Post
I apologize if this has been asked already, I have tried searching, but there are a million different answers that come up.

I have a RC12R5.1 and RC12L4. The L4 body is not too bad, but the R5.1 body is trashed. Both cars could use a new body. Is there a standard body that most people run on 1/12 scale pan cars (similar to the Mazda Speed6 that many Touring cars race with)? I was thinking about the Protoform Speed 12, but I wasn't sure if this was a good choice. Unfortunately I have the first 1/12 scale cars at my track so there is nobody there to ask.

I am still pretty rough on the track, so I would like a body that can handle some abuse without splitting after the first mishap
I tend to apply a thin layer of shoo goo around the areas of most impact and wheel arches,then smooth it flat with finger tip. I works really well if you do it to a new shell and dry quickly. it has totally stopped splitting of the arches on my touring car and also 12th shell. I have used the specific RC lexan repair stuff but doesn't work as well as shoo goo. If you have any splits you can reinforce them with an off cut of lexan from a shell.
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Old 10-13-2010, 10:53 AM   #34908
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Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
With harder side springs the car will "feel" easyer but tent's to lift it's rear wheels faster. Try running softer side springs and also a softer center spring.
The softer side springs will make the care lift it's wheel less easy. The softer center spring will slow down the weight transfer and there fore lift the wheels also less easy. But softening the side springs will make a set-up changes and maybe loose some reaction. If you don't like that make the side tubes a litte stiffer.
Also try to drive les camber at the front wheels (1deg) and try putting some sticky stuff on the front susp shafts (under the front springs). This will also slow down the weight transfer. Less but not least put the battery in front (if not already there) and just try to "corner" easyer, try some steering curve (-10%).
I assume you have already widend the front end (168mm / 169mm) and glued the front tires?

Good luck!

Best Regards
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Robert
Thanks! I will try softer springs. So I guess this means that harder springs would be better for less traction? That seems weird. I hadn't tried widening the front end or gluing the front tires or any of that yet, but perhaps I'll try that too if needed.
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Old 10-13-2010, 11:29 AM   #34909
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Thanks! I will try softer springs. So I guess this means that harder springs would be better for less traction? That seems weird. I hadn't tried widening the front end or gluing the front tires or any of that yet, but perhaps I'll try that too if needed.
Start with the tires and front end ;-) This will do a lot more then the springs!

Your "think wise" is good about the springs. In general: Softer spring, more traction, stiffer spring more reaction. Although it's a pancar with (as far as I understand from your post) a lot of grip. Some physic laws don't just work anymore (because of both!). Making the side spring softer will make the car "lean" more, instead of flippin' over or lifting it's wheels because of a too hard side spring.

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Old 10-13-2010, 05:28 PM   #34910
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Was wondering if anybody has been using the lrp sxx v2? ifso how does it compete with the tekins? does the steering get enough without a booster or lipo or life batteries?
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Old 10-13-2010, 05:39 PM   #34911
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Originally Posted by mdwaeracer View Post
Was wondering if anybody has been using the lrp sxx v2? ifso how does it compete with the tekins? does the steering get enough without a booster or lipo or life batteries?
If you are using a 3.7V LiPo, you need a receiver pack or booster to supply 6V to the receiver, servo and transponder (if you are using one).
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Old 10-13-2010, 05:41 PM   #34912
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hmm lrp claims no booster or lipo needed?
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Old 10-13-2010, 06:01 PM   #34913
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Originally Posted by mdwaeracer View Post
hmm lrp claims no booster or lipo needed?

It is fairly new but I wounder how long it will take for others to do the same?

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Old 10-13-2010, 06:15 PM   #34914
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The Havoc 1s has been doing it for about a year now. Which REALLY disappointed me when the Kinetic didn't have the same feature. No excuse for that really. Unlike the Tekin, etc, it didn't come out until 1s racing for pan cars was the norm, and it ain't like the Kinetic is small or anything...
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Old 10-13-2010, 07:01 PM   #34915
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Has anyone tried the LRP SPX TC? Does it need the bosster/ rec.pack for the power?
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Old 10-13-2010, 10:25 PM   #34916
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Originally Posted by PDX-Spike View Post
If you are using a 3.7V LiPo, you need a receiver pack or booster to supply 6V to the receiver, servo and transponder (if you are using one).
LRP SXXv2 supports 1s operation WITHOUT booster or receiver pack. 3 of my friends are using it already. The esc is very competitive.
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Old 10-14-2010, 12:06 AM   #34917
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Originally Posted by BIG DADDY8 View Post
Has anyone tried the LRP SPX TC? Does it need the booster/ rec.pack for the power?
Have a regular SPX, not a TC, but as far as I know,they are identical internally. Mine needs a RX pack for 1S.
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Old 10-14-2010, 12:08 AM   #34918
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Originally Posted by PDX-Spike View Post
If you are using a 3.7V LiPo, you need a receiver pack or booster to supply 6V to the receiver, servo and transponder (if you are using one).
LRP states: "Twin BEC: Constant 6V/3A output with 3.0V to 7.4V batteries. No receiver battery with 1S LiPo needed. "

I am currently using and dont need a receiver pack
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Old 10-14-2010, 05:12 PM   #34919
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Thats nice to know. is it keeping up with the Tekin?
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Old 10-14-2010, 05:31 PM   #34920
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Originally Posted by mdwaeracer View Post
Thats nice to know. is it keeping up with the Tekin?
Would you dump your Tekin for an LRP that doesn't require a $25 (or cheaper) receiver pack, or would you just get a pack and save the $$$?
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