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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-08-2010, 01:11 PM   #34846
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
DX3s (can get new ones here for 210)
Tekin,lrp sxx esc(tekins need a booster or rx pack lrp doesn't)
tekin,lrp,sp duo1-2,murfdogg 13.5 are all excellent or a bad ass surge 19t
smc,tp,crc 1s are all top batteries,(surge 1s)
bsr,jaco,crc tires are all good
it comes down to what you can get your hands on easy enough
Thanks, buddy.

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Old 10-08-2010, 02:12 PM   #34847
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Hey Guys,

I gonna buy a 1/12 scale car for a small tight indoor carpet track. I'm leaning towards the Associated 12R5 since it's easy to get parts for... Any recommendations for the radio/speedo/batts/motor/tires I should use?

Anyone selling one?
Not an R5, but looks like a great deal HERE
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Old 10-08-2010, 04:14 PM   #34848
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Not an R5, but looks like a great deal HERE
I have a better deal, crc gen x rolling chassis for $80 bucks... LMK...
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Old 10-08-2010, 04:27 PM   #34849
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Not an R5, but looks like a great deal HERE
i would suggest the DX3R, i have one, really like it. i know at least person that had troubles with the DX3S. the telemetry optioned receiver was problematic for him.

also, i have a GenXL in good shape with some parts, ($125+shipping) LMK.
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Old 10-08-2010, 06:29 PM   #34850
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No nothing in the inbox from you Lonnie, np we'll just have to reschedule to next weekend the 17th.
You have PM, I hope. Lonny
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Old 10-08-2010, 06:31 PM   #34851
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Got that one Lonnie, responded
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Old 10-09-2010, 09:59 AM   #34852
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You have PM, I hope. Lonny
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Got that one Lonnie, responded
Where's my PM. I know I havn't rced in a while but I'd still like to know when you guys are trying to make it happen (feeling left out)
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Old 10-09-2010, 11:34 AM   #34853
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When on a straight and putting the power on the car pulls to one side. It only does this with lower turn motors and tracks completely straight at normal speed. This to me would say it's the diff slipping but it is hard to turn when I hold the spur and one wheel so presume it is tight enough. Anyone else exspereanced this problem in 12 th ? When I say lower turns I mean 10.5 as I was running 17.5.
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Old 10-09-2010, 11:48 AM   #34854
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Are your tires at the same diameter?
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Old 10-09-2010, 12:10 PM   #34855
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I've had this problem recently. It was an itchy trigger finger!
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Old 10-09-2010, 12:12 PM   #34856
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Originally Posted by darrenoakley View Post
When on a straight and putting the power on the car pulls to one side. It only does this with lower turn motors and tracks completely straight at normal speed. This to me would say it's the diff slipping but it is hard to turn when I hold the spur and one wheel so presume it is tight enough. Anyone else exspereanced this problem in 12 th ? When I say lower turns I mean 10.5 as I was running 17.5.
It should be impossible to turn - totally tight. Any slip you can exert with your hand needs to be eliminated. A good diff build will be smooth as glass and tight as a drum. It isn't usually the diff that causes the car to take of at an angle, it's usually an uneven width of the rear axle from side to side (not centred) or the same problem when comparing front and rear track - the rear track is offset compared to the front.

After that there are scores of small things it could be, so best find one of us at a meeting and we'll sort it out. HTH
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Old 10-09-2010, 01:39 PM   #34857
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Tomorrow will be my first runs ever with a 1/12th scale car.... I can't wait!!!
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Old 10-09-2010, 01:50 PM   #34858
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Originally Posted by darrenoakley View Post
When on a straight and putting the power on the car pulls to one side. It only does this with lower turn motors and tracks completely straight at normal speed. This to me would say it's the diff slipping but it is hard to turn when I hold the spur and one wheel so presume it is tight enough. Anyone else exspereanced this problem in 12 th ? When I say lower turns I mean 10.5 as I was running 17.5.
Your rear axle could be spaced incorrectly or could be too tight. There needs to be a little play in the rear axle or you will bind the rear bearings which are both on the same side of the diff.
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Old 10-09-2010, 03:28 PM   #34859
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It should be impossible to turn - totally tight. Any slip you can exert with your hand needs to be eliminated. A good diff build will be smooth as glass and tight as a drum. It isn't usually the diff that causes the car to take of at an angle, it's usually an uneven width of the rear axle from side to side (not centred) or the same problem when comparing front and rear track - the rear track is offset compared to the front.

After that there are scores of small things it could be, so best find one of us at a meeting and we'll sort it out. HTH
Ah then I first need to tighten my diff. I am on the south coast in the UK so chances are I wont be at a meeting near you guys. Will get one of my local club guys to check it though.
Just triad to get my diff tighter but it just strips the thread on the plastic diff nut on the 12r5.1 I have spares so have got it as tight as I can but still not perfect.
Thanks for the replys though.
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Old 10-09-2010, 03:52 PM   #34860
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Ok got it on the setup board

The rear measurement from dead centre of the chassis to the outer edge of the rear foams is bang on 85mm both sides including 2 shims that come as part of the kit. They are not binding on the bearings as when I built the kit I had this problem and sorted it then,there is a very small gap just enough for it to not bind but not slop, with no pinion the rear wheel spin as free as the fronts. so dont have a clue. The next thing I will do is true down my foams a bit so to make sure they are all even and the same size. Fronts are 84mm from centre to edge. Its not a major problem but something that could be on a bigger track. Open to any suggestions
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