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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-05-2010, 11:21 AM   #34831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
The Futaba 9650 is a perfect fit. (Remember that it uses a 25 spline servo saver, the kit's is 23 spline.)
And it's an awesome freaking servo Highly recommended.
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Old 10-05-2010, 06:47 PM   #34832
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
I was trying not to use the aluminum spacers. The crc stuff you just loosen the screws and slide the shim in and out. No need to actually take the screws out. Much faster and easier that way.
agreed, removing the screw and reinsterting the screw thru a loose shim is a PITA. there is a set of shims similiar to the crc plastic shims for fine tuning. check out 'manutech' . AMAIN hobbies stocks them, but oddly stormer doesn't.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Kit-10R5-12R5

FYI manutech also makes a set for the CRC/L4 strut layout.
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Old 10-06-2010, 02:00 PM   #34833
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for a less pricy option consider
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7884

you can get a half dozen for the price of one TQ booster, but you need to rig your own wiring and switch if you want.
Tony - I have one of these but the instructions leave a little to be desired. How do you wire this up ? I get that the end with JST connector goes to the receiver, but how do you wire the other end (to the battery I suppose ?). I'm using a Tekin RS if that matters. Any insight is appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike
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Old 10-06-2010, 02:05 PM   #34834
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Originally Posted by inconceivable View Post
Tony - I have one of these but the instructions leave a little to be desired. How do you wire this up ? I get that the end with JST connector goes to the receiver, but how do you wire the other end (to the battery I suppose ?). I'm using a Tekin RS if that matters. Any insight is appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike
I have one and I just soldered and shrink wraped 2 short wires to the + and - pins and soldered them to the battery + and - on the ESC. Works well.
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Last edited by BCbud; 10-06-2010 at 02:11 PM. Reason: add the word "battery"
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Old 10-06-2010, 02:12 PM   #34835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inconceivable View Post
Tony - I have one of these but the instructions leave a little to be desired. How do you wire this up ? I get that the end with JST connector goes to the receiver, but how do you wire the other end (to the battery I suppose ?). I'm using a Tekin RS if that matters. Any insight is appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike
Get a servo extension, remove the white "signal" wire, cut the socket end off, and solder the red and black wires to the B+ and B- posts on the RS. Plug the other end of the extension into the booster, with the black wire on the same side as the black coming out of the voltage booster.

As soon as you plug your 1s LiPo in, the entire system is on.

I soldered a switch inline with the red servo extension wire so that I can turn the voltage booster on/off.
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Old 10-06-2010, 03:41 PM   #34836
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Originally Posted by inconceivable View Post
Tony - I have one of these but the instructions leave a little to be desired. How do you wire this up ? I get that the end with JST connector goes to the receiver, but how do you wire the other end (to the battery I suppose ?). I'm using a Tekin RS if that matters. Any insight is appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike
hi Mike, how is it going? are you racing pancars at WCRC these days?

regarding wiring, do exactly what CarbonJoe said just above. i did just the same thing with an aileron extension and a spare switch.

the general idea is to take 3.7v battery power from the +/- post's of the ESC, into the booster female end, which sends 6v out the booster male end into the receiver.

it may seem strange to pass power from one end to another of the ESC, the ESC with switch off just means that the internal BEC is unpowered, when you put the boosted voltage into the ESC's reciever plug the ESC becomes operational. (with only one slight limitation) with tekin's current software you have the option of turning the esc on, but that is only to use the voltage cutoff.
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Old 10-06-2010, 04:04 PM   #34837
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Thanks everyone for the quick info ..... I'll wire it up tonight.

Tony - Just "rediscovered" 1/12 scale and am going to TQ whenever possible. Hope to see you soon !
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Old 10-06-2010, 06:48 PM   #34838
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Thanks everyone for the quick info ..... I'll wire it up tonight.

Tony - Just "rediscovered" 1/12 scale and am going to TQ whenever possible. Hope to see you soon !
same here, the drive is sub-optimal for me but wooden boards and asphalt are too unkind to anything less than 1/8 or 1/5 gas cars (for my driving style )

i am really spoiled by reliable grip, reasonably dust free conditions and plastic boards, plus Sean is a fine fellow.

i go when i can, weekdays are near impossible, but 1 sunday a month is feasible.
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:23 PM   #34839
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Hi guys this may have been covered before if so I apologise. I am looking at racing the 12r5.1 on asphalt sometime and was wondering how different it will be to carpet that I am used to racing on. I here that db pinks all round work well, but what is the grip like compared iE better or worse and also any major chassis changes I would need to do to prepare for this. At the moment it is only an idea but an itch needing scratching if you get my point.
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Old 10-07-2010, 07:16 PM   #34840
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Asphalt will have less grip than good carpet. I haven't raced asphalt for a while, but we used to run pink rears and purple fronts. You will need to raise your ride height about a mm or so. Watch for signs (scratches) of the car dragging. Good luck.
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Old 10-07-2010, 10:04 PM   #34841
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Hi guys this may have been covered before if so I apologise. I am looking at racing the 12r5.1 on asphalt sometime and was wondering how different it will be to carpet that I am used to racing on. I here that db pinks all round work well, but what is the grip like compared iE better or worse and also any major chassis changes I would need to do to prepare for this. At the moment it is only an idea but an itch needing scratching if you get my point.
I was running asphalt untill that track closed its on-road program last yr. Double pinks all around on a prepped/good grip track is a good starting point for the lighter lipo cars. As Lonnie said(see you Sun Lonnie) the grip may be less than your used to with carpet, takes a little getting used to.
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Old 10-08-2010, 12:12 AM   #34842
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CH closed Sunday Chris. Didn't you get my PM?
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Old 10-08-2010, 08:19 AM   #34843
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No nothing in the inbox from you Lonnie, np we'll just have to reschedule to next weekend the 17th.
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Old 10-08-2010, 11:49 AM   #34844
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Hey Guys,

I gonna buy a 1/12 scale car for a small tight indoor carpet track. I'm leaning towards the Associated 12R5 since it's easy to get parts for... Any recommendations for the radio/speedo/batts/motor/tires I should use?

Anyone selling one?
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Old 10-08-2010, 12:22 PM   #34845
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Hey Guys,

I gonna buy a 1/12 scale car for a small tight indoor carpet track. I'm leaning towards the Associated 12R5 since it's easy to get parts for... Any recommendations for the radio/speedo/batts/motor/tires I should use?

Anyone selling one?
DX3s (can get new ones here for 210)
Tekin,lrp sxx esc(tekins need a booster or rx pack lrp doesn't)
tekin,lrp,sp duo1-2,murfdogg 13.5 are all excellent or a bad ass surge 19t
smc,tp,crc 1s are all top batteries,(surge 1s)
bsr,jaco,crc tires are all good
it comes down to what you can get your hands on easy enough
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