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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-01-2010, 11:48 AM   #34771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motomanpat View Post
Hey Mr Spike lol

Thanks for your insight! I ran a couple 11.8s but that is off the pace by about 1 second a lap so I will be trying to have as much fun as possible at the race My car feels like it is getting pulled around by a rubber band attached to the car in front of me my temp has been low on all electrics.
What motor are you running? Has Dave looked at it?
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Old 10-02-2010, 12:06 AM   #34772
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I am always ready to learn. I am always looking for a mountain guru to sit at their feet and learn Jedi ways.

For example...

When it comes to rear traction for 1/12th in general, what 6 geometry, set up changes do you feel improve traction the most. I always seem to be looking for more rear traction at my local track and another set of eyes/opinion on the situation would be awesome. I am trying to improve my cars' (AE, SM, CRC) balance without removing steering, which may be drivable but slower...

I ask because I have seen two particular car brands excel on our track, and despite a couple years of solid week in and week out testing and trying ALL KINDS of changes, I can't seem to improve car A to meet the rear traction developed by cars B or C. (which in turn allows me to dial in more steering, which results in a faster car). The easy answer is to run car B or C at my track, but I don't want to take the easy way out, I want to learn.


Narrower rear axle width
Softer Center Spring/Oil
Larger Rear tires
Higher ride height (rear slightly lower than front)
Softer side springs
Thicker side dampening
Softer rear tires (I'm down to whites now)
Move body back
Move weight on chassis forward
Speed8 HD body
Top rear of center shock positioned closer to center pod pivot
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Old 10-02-2010, 02:12 AM   #34773
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I found going to a harder rear Tyre gave me more rear grip. I know its against what you think will work, but what i think is happening is that the car isnt trying to steer from the rear as the sidewall of the tyre flex's as it would with a softer Tyre. I could be really wrong thoughWhites are very soft, maybe go to Pinks? A softer side spring could give you more rear grip as long as the side to side movement isnt to soft cousing the car to be too reactive.

This was on Asphalt though, ive never run on Carpet before.

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Old 10-02-2010, 02:36 AM   #34774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
When it comes to rear traction for 1/12th in general, what 6 geometry, set up changes do you feel improve traction the most. I always seem to be looking for more rear traction at my local track and another set of eyes/opinion on the situation would be awesome. I am trying to improve my cars' (AE, SM, CRC) balance without removing steering, which may be drivable but slower...

1.Narrower rear axle width
2.Softer Center Spring/Oil
3.Larger Rear tires
4.Higher ride height (rear slightly lower than front)
5.Softer side springs
6.Thicker side dampening
7.Softer rear tires (I'm down to whites now)
8.Move body back
9.Move weight on chassis forward
10.Speed8 HD body
11.Top rear of center shock positioned closer to center pod pivot
All depends on what you're looking for.....
1. Will reduce the cars tendency to rotate, and will reduce exit steering on power
2. Will give you more forward bite, reducing exit steering on-power
3. Will add side bite, making the car slightly more stable, but more prone to chunking
4. Rake will make the car turn-in less aggressively off power
5. will add side-bite untill you reach the point of diminshing return by going too soft.
6. Slows weight transfer, will make the car less reactive
7. Whites are in general too soft, good forward bite, but lacks side bite. try yellow or grey
8. I never do this, as it really only affects the car at high speeds
9. slows longitudinal weight transfer. You don't really give up overall steering, but you will lose some turn-in
10. If you're normally running Speed 8's this body offers more grip everywhere.
11. I'd actually move the forward mounting point further forward if possible, though I haven't played with this adjustment in years.


HTH.....
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Old 10-02-2010, 04:58 AM   #34775
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I was wondering why most 1/12 scale cars I see have the solid fibreglass antenna rods with the antenna wrapped around them, instead of the flexible tubes used on TCs?
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Old 10-02-2010, 05:11 AM   #34776
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its a roll over antenna
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Old 10-02-2010, 05:15 AM   #34777
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
its a roll over antenna
What does that mean and why for 1/12 1/10 on roads only and not TCs?

Also when I cut my speed12b body, theres a piece that looks like a flap on the rear bottom of the mould, what is it for?

Thanks for answering my questions as I'm new to 1/12.
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Old 10-02-2010, 05:27 AM   #34778
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Originally Posted by rc_square24 View Post
What does that mean and why for 1/12 1/10 on roads only and not TCs?

Also when I cut my speed12b body, theres a piece that looks like a flap on the rear bottom of the mould, what is it for?

Thanks for answering my questions as I'm new to 1/12.
It stops the car from sliding upside down and the fiberglass antenna can flip the car back onto its wheels.
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Old 10-02-2010, 06:55 AM   #34779
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AND the roll-over antenna is ONLY allowed in 1/12 per the rules (ROAR and, I believe, IFMAR), they are specifically banned in other classes. Hence no touring cars.
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Old 10-02-2010, 08:58 AM   #34780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
All depends on what you're looking for.....
1. Will reduce the cars tendency to rotate, and will reduce exit steering on power
2. Will give you more forward bite, reducing exit steering on-power
3. Will add side bite, making the car slightly more stable, but more prone to chunking
4. Rake will make the car turn-in less aggressively off power
5. will add side-bite untill you reach the point of diminshing return by going too soft.
6. Slows weight transfer, will make the car less reactive
7. Whites are in general too soft, good forward bite, but lacks side bite. try yellow or grey
8. I never do this, as it really only affects the car at high speeds
9. slows longitudinal weight transfer. You don't really give up overall steering, but you will lose some turn-in
10. If you're normally running Speed 8's this body offers more grip everywhere.
11. I'd actually move the forward mounting point further forward if possible, though I haven't played with this adjustment in years.


HTH.....
Thanks
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Old 10-02-2010, 03:31 PM   #34781
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Old 10-02-2010, 05:19 PM   #34782
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Default Chassis balancing question

I know this has been answered before but I'd like a couple more opinions. For the record, I'm only asking because my search results yielded 2 answers and I'm looking for a definitive answer

I've got an L4 and I'm getting ready install a 1s pack and the rest of the electronics. I have tinkered around with which side to mount the electronics and it seems that if I balance the entire chassis with the motor installed, I should mount the battery on the right side of the chassis and the electronics on the left. But, if I look at how weight is distributed on the chassis and with the goal in mind of adding as little weight as possible, I feel like I should mount the battery on the left (2/3's of the servo is on the right side of the chassis).

My question is: should I balance the entire car (pod and chassis) or just the chassis but with the motor wires where they would normally be? Thanks!
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Old 10-02-2010, 08:48 PM   #34783
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Balance the entire car. Be sure the T-Bar is level side to side, if possible back off the tweak screws so there is no tension to affect the balance. If you're serious about the L4 consider a 1S split pack.
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Old 10-02-2010, 09:11 PM   #34784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
...My question is: should I balance the entire car (pod and chassis) or just the chassis but with the motor wires where they would normally be? Thanks!
You're not going to get a definitive answer because this has been discussed at length and people dissagree.

On a car like the L4, which was not designed for brushless motors, you should balance the chassis by itself. The reason is that the BL motor makes the motor box heavy on the left (non-gear) side. So if you balance the whole car you will add extra weight to the right side of the chassis to compensate. But with tires on the car and it sitting on the track that extra weight is pushing down on the right front tire more than the left. The motor pod does not come in to play because it sits level on the rear axle. I believe the disagreement may come from the fact that it makes little difference which way you do it as long as the car is not hugely out of balance.

What does make some difference is that you will have to add a lot of weight to the electronics side of the car to compensate for the battery, and the car will be quite overweight. Most of the cars these days can weigh in around the minimum so that can be a disadvantage. Like Lonny said, you should just get the excellent Speedzone 1s saddle pack. It will fit with little to no modifications and you'll have no balance issues (from the battery at least)
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Old 10-02-2010, 09:34 PM   #34785
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Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
You're not going to get a definitive answer because this has been discussed at length and people dissagree.

On a car like the L4, which was not designed for brushless motors, you should balance the chassis by itself. The reason is that the BL motor makes the motor box heavy on the left (non-gear) side. So if you balance the whole car you will add extra weight to the right side of the chassis to compensate. But with tires on the car and it sitting on the track that extra weight is pushing down on the right front tire more than the left. The motor pod does not come in to play because it sits level on the rear axle. I believe the disagreement may come from the fact that it makes little difference which way you do it as long as the car is not hugely out of balance.

What does make some difference is that you will have to add a lot of weight to the electronics side of the car to compensate for the battery, and the car will be quite overweight. Most of the cars these days can weigh in around the minimum so that can be a disadvantage. Like Lonny said, you should just get the excellent Speedzone 1s saddle pack. It will fit with little to no modifications and you'll have no balance issues (from the battery at least)
+1
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