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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-30-2010, 07:28 PM   #34756
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Anyone?...Bueller? LOL
nope. just toss those old shocks... get some silva or hpi ones... they rock!!!!!
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Old 09-30-2010, 07:29 PM   #34757
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it does have a bottom cap
Good to know, thanks.

In that case, good luck JayBee.
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Old 09-30-2010, 07:34 PM   #34758
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Hi guys. First off lots of knowledge and good stuff in hear. Thanks for that. Got my first 1/12 going a gen-xl. Im having a wierd problem though.

The car wont give me the same ride height right to left. The front will be level but once i start going towards the back of the car one side is lower then the other by about .5 maybe even almost 1mm. I have checked and double checked everything and gone nuts looking for a explanation.

Things i have checked

Front ride height spacers and rear ride height adjusters are correct and match.

Tires are equal from left to right. Ive even tried with new tires not trued that are perfectly even.

Car is not tweaked even though i dont think that would make the difference.

The problem gets worse as it go towards the rear of the car.
The pod is not even either. I am at a loss. What could cause this. Im new to 1/12 scale but i cant see what im missing as there isnt much to it. Thanks for the help in advance guys
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Old 09-30-2010, 07:44 PM   #34759
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Originally Posted by mist467 View Post
Hi guys. First off lots of knowledge and good stuff in hear. Thanks for that. Got my first 1/12 going a gen-xl. Im having a wierd problem though.

The car wont give me the same ride height right to left. The front will be level but once i start going towards the back of the car one side is lower then the other by about .5 maybe even almost 1mm. I have checked and double checked everything and gone nuts looking for a explanation.

Things i have checked

Front ride height spacers and rear ride height adjusters are correct and match.

Tires are equal from left to right. Ive even tried with new tires not trued that are perfectly even.

Car is not tweaked even though i dont think that would make the difference.

The problem gets worse as it go towards the rear of the car.
The pod is not even either. I am at a loss. What could cause this. Im new to 1/12 scale but i cant see what im missing as there isnt much to it. Thanks for the help in advance guys
Bearing holders in the rear pod?
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Old 09-30-2010, 07:46 PM   #34760
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Originally Posted by mist467 View Post
Hi guys. First off lots of knowledge and good stuff in hear. Thanks for that. Got my first 1/12 going a gen-xl. Im having a wierd problem though.

The car wont give me the same ride height right to left. The front will be level but once i start going towards the back of the car one side is lower then the other by about .5 maybe even almost 1mm. I have checked and double checked everything and gone nuts looking for a explanation.

Things i have checked

Front ride height spacers and rear ride height adjusters are correct and match.

Tires are equal from left to right. Ive even tried with new tires not trued that are perfectly even.

Car is not tweaked even though i dont think that would make the difference.

The problem gets worse as it go towards the rear of the car.
The pod is not even either. I am at a loss. What could cause this. Im new to 1/12 scale but i cant see what im missing as there isnt much to it. Thanks for the help in advance guys
Good day!

Did you adjust the side springs?
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:03 PM   #34761
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The pod is not even either. I am at a loss. What could cause this. Im new to 1/12 scale but i cant see what im missing as there isnt much to it. Thanks for the help in advance guys
Pull the left and right bulkheads off the pod, and detatch the lower pod plate from the chassis. Place the pod plate on a piece of glass, and make sure it's flat. If it is, check the left and right bulkheads on the glass to make sure they aren't bent. A bent left or right bulkhead can tweak the lower pod plate and cause the issue you've described.

If you find nothing wrong with the pod, check the chassis on glass to make sure it's flat.
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:08 PM   #34762
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Originally Posted by mist467 View Post
Hi guys. First off lots of knowledge and good stuff in hear. Thanks for that. Got my first 1/12 going a gen-xl. Im having a wierd problem though.

The car wont give me the same ride height right to left. The front will be level but once i start going towards the back of the car one side is lower then the other by about .5 maybe even almost 1mm. I have checked and double checked everything and gone nuts looking for a explanation.

Things i have checked

Front ride height spacers and rear ride height adjusters are correct and match.

Tires are equal from left to right. Ive even tried with new tires not trued that are perfectly even.

Car is not tweaked even though i dont think that would make the difference.

The problem gets worse as it go towards the rear of the car.
The pod is not even either. I am at a loss. What could cause this. Im new to 1/12 scale but i cant see what im missing as there isnt much to it. Thanks for the help in advance guys
Check you ride height adjusters in the rear pod and make sure they are the same and orientated the same way!

That could be the only explanation for the pod being off.
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:19 PM   #34763
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to me it makes no difference, I don't see a need to buy an 'option' that doesn't actually upgrade anything. if it was a upgrade that actually made the car work better.....well then you might have a point
Ritchie...the day I feel I need you to validate my opinion, much less appoint you the arbiter of whether I have a point or not, I'll be sure to let you know.

Quote:
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I don't know when any option chassis would be available from T.O.P. but I honestly don't see what the big deal is. The car was designed to accept both cells and lipo. Maybe I just don't see something, do some people not buy CRC cars because they accept cells?
Michael--the reason I don't buy CRC cars has nothing to do with the slots (or lack thereof) . Battery positioning / retention is my concern, whether it's a "big deal" or not. When the SMC 1s came out with the round cell contours on the bottom it was a no-brainer, it fit right into the slots. Unfortunately that was a single release feature. Now all our batteries are either square corners (SMC) or rounded corners (IP, etc) with flat faces. I've been half-assing braces to secure these packs fore and aft in my cars for what, a year and a half now, and have just had to go through the process again (after figuring out how to do it) on my trusty ol' 3.2R (don't ask why, but it's what I have to run this week). Does it work? Pretty much, though adjustability is a pita. And three times now playing re-engineer has pretty well exhausted what very little interest I may have had in that particular project.

If the new TOP chassis has a positive retention that secures these brick 1s packs I'll raise my hands to the heavens and shout "Hallelujah". I'm just not planning to shell out for any more chassis that have slots if that is what they intend to secure the batteries. Unfortunately battery mfr's aren't QUITE as uniform as the round cells were as far as dimensions so it's going to make the kit mfr's job that much tougher trying to create a universal battery positioning system.

At least that's how I'm seeing it. My opinion in this matter is certainly open to change
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:20 PM   #34764
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Check you ride height adjusters in the rear pod and make sure they are the same and orientated the same way!

That could be the only explanation for the pod being off.
Well one of the explanations but not the only...as Cypress notes a bent pod plate or warped lower plate will cause this as well. Also if you are using a link style rear suspension having the links too tight can as well.
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:38 PM   #34765
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Thanks guys for all the help with the shock building tips. I think I have a couple of Silva shocks laying around.
And @ Korey- SUCK IT!!!
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Old 09-30-2010, 10:44 PM   #34766
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Thanks for the help guys it ended up being a very warped pod plate. Seems like if you tighten the bottom screws first before the brace it will tweak it. All is well now.

Now if i could just figure out gearing and rollout
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:44 PM   #34767
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I am new to on road and have a WGT but I have one question for all you pan guys. There is one thing that I am not able to figure out. Is there an ideal rollout?
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:48 PM   #34768
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Thanks for the help guys it ended up being a very warped pod plate. Seems like if you tighten the bottom screws first before the brace it will tweak it. All is well now.

Now if i could just figure out gearing and rollout
Yeah, I shoulda covered that too. I usually just "snug up" the lower pod plate screws, tighten the "X" brace screws in a "X-pattern" then tighten the lower plate screws.

What size is your track, and what motor are you running?
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Old 10-01-2010, 12:40 AM   #34769
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I am new to on road and have a WGT but I have one question for all you pan guys. There is one thing that I am not able to figure out. Is there an ideal rollout?
Hey Pat,

There is an ideal rollout for every racing situation. Finding it is the hard part. It's rear tire size, spur, pinion and the layout that you're racing on.

At the IIC this year, I thought I had a great rollout for the 12th class. It had killer speed on the straight, but it was a little slow in the corners. I was racing against a guy who had a much lower rollout and he kill everybody in our heat in the corners.

If you think about the Timezone layout for the Gran Prix, you're gonna be on the straight for about 2 or 3 seconds. Then, you're gonna spend 10 or 11 seconds or so in the corners. It doesn't make sense to set the rollout for the straight, because you can program the RS take care of the speed there. Set your rollout for the infield so you can get through the corners without bogging down and you'll be good.

Check the fast guys tire sizes and go from there. Dave, Andy and Mark are a good source for information.
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Old 10-01-2010, 02:27 AM   #34770
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Hey Pat,

There is an ideal rollout for every racing situation. Finding it is the hard part. It's rear tire size, spur, pinion and the layout that you're racing on.

At the IIC this year, I thought I had a great rollout for the 12th class. It had killer speed on the straight, but it was a little slow in the corners. I was racing against a guy who had a much lower rollout and he kill everybody in our heat in the corners.

If you think about the Timezone layout for the Gran Prix, you're gonna be on the straight for about 2 or 3 seconds. Then, you're gonna spend 10 or 11 seconds or so in the corners. It doesn't make sense to set the rollout for the straight, because you can program the RS take care of the speed there. Set your rollout for the infield so you can get through the corners without bogging down and you'll be good.

Check the fast guys tire sizes and go from there. Dave, Andy and Mark are a good source for information.

Hey Mr Spike lol

Thanks for your insight! I ran a couple 11.8s but that is off the pace by about 1 second a lap so I will be trying to have as much fun as possible at the race My car feels like it is getting pulled around by a rubber band attached to the car in front of me my temp has been low on all electrics.
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