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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-27-2010, 08:09 AM   #34696
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just the rs,a booster or 2s 2-300mah

http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph...teries-Lithium
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Old 09-27-2010, 08:19 AM   #34697
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thanks i got the rs coming, will the novak booster work or not? Is it just best to get a receiver pack
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Old 09-27-2010, 08:23 AM   #34698
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to many problems with novak there cut off is set to high,go with a TQ or the one from rcdynamics,hobbyking but there are over seas,a lipo can be wired through the rs switch
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Old 09-27-2010, 10:37 AM   #34699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
to many problems with novak there cut off is set to high,go with a TQ or the one from rcdynamics,hobbyking but there are over seas,a lipo can be wired through the rs switch
Agreed.

Ran a TQ last racing season (October thru March) in my 1/12th and WGT cars. Both were 13.5 using a Tekin RS w/timing. ZERO PROBLEMS WITH THE TQ BOOSTER!
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Last edited by PDX-Spike; 09-27-2010 at 04:42 PM.
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Old 09-27-2010, 02:18 PM   #34700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EVILGRAFX View Post
Thanks for the link. I may give those a try this season and for that price I can manage keeping a few spares in my box just in case.
If you order "too many", I'll snag a couple as insurance for myself as well.

I have a TQ booster installed, atm.
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Old 09-27-2010, 02:41 PM   #34701
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Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
If you order "too many", I'll snag a couple as insurance for myself as well.

I have a TQ booster installed, atm.
You got it Harry. That is, if you ever make it out to race with us.

Stay safe and we'll see you when you get back.
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Old 09-27-2010, 03:47 PM   #34702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EVILGRAFX View Post
You got it Harry. That is, if you ever make it out to race with us.

Stay safe and we'll see you when you get back.
I'm on Norway pay right now, kart season is over, and I should have a new TC to build and shake down, as well as the new CH front by the time I'm back, you'll see me
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Old 09-27-2010, 06:18 PM   #34703
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Default WOW!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/7971548-post2409.html

Just got my 12r5.1 Lipo chassis. I'm really impressed with the quality of this CF, and I am really picky. I did some brief comparisons between the regular 12r5.1 chassis and this new and improved one. Here's the break down . . .

-Both are 2.5 mm thick
-Stock is 50g vs 58g for the lipo version (its nice to have the weight down low)
-The new chassis is drilled for both the popular JR and Futaba servos
-The new chassis is drilled to locate the servo 3 mm farther forward, where I normally locate my servo anyway with spacers.
-The new chassis widens the front end out about 2mm for stability.
-It looks like the new chassis is drilled to accept CRC lipo locators and allow you to move the battery fore/aft.
-There is a center hole drilled at the rear of the main chassis for those who like to balance just the chassis.
-The new chassis is about 3 mm narrower than the stock chassis without adjusting the geometry.

Can't wait to get some electronics in this thing and see it carving up the carpet.
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Old 09-28-2010, 12:37 PM   #34704
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Stormer Hobbies will be stocking On-Point Racing products soon. http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...umb=on&smode=0
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Old 09-28-2010, 01:30 PM   #34705
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On Point Racing will be tying up with Markus Mober's Speedtech range, so you should be able to buy the Speedtech additive used at the Worlds from them. Try it, you'll like it!
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Old 09-28-2010, 02:01 PM   #34706
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ok guys i have all my 1/12th stuff

Question about the booster , in the instructions it seys to leave the speedo turned off

Is it not better to remove the red + wire from the reciever wire to the servo ??

Thanks and photos to follow
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Old 09-28-2010, 02:14 PM   #34707
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what booster
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Old 09-28-2010, 02:16 PM   #34708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7971548-post2409.html

Just got my 12r5.1 Lipo chassis. I'm really impressed with the quality of this CF, and I am really picky. I did some brief comparisons between the regular 12r5.1 chassis and this new and improved one. Here's the break down . . .

-Both are 2.5 mm thick
-Stock is 50g vs 58g for the lipo version (its nice to have the weight down low)
-The new chassis is drilled for both the popular JR and Futaba servos
-The new chassis is drilled to locate the servo 3 mm farther forward, where I normally locate my servo anyway with spacers.
-The new chassis widens the front end out about 2mm for stability.
-It looks like the new chassis is drilled to accept CRC lipo locators and allow you to move the battery fore/aft.
-There is a center hole drilled at the rear of the main chassis for those who like to balance just the chassis.
-The new chassis is about 3 mm narrower than the stock chassis without adjusting the geometry.

Can't wait to get some electronics in this thing and see it carving up the carpet.
Looking forward to some comparison feedback when you get that new chassis rolling.
Do you have a 2nd car for back to back testing ?
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Old 09-28-2010, 02:17 PM   #34709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
ok guys i have all my 1/12th stuff

Question about the booster , in the instructions it seys to leave the speedo turned off

Is it not better to remove the red + wire from the reciever wire to the servo ??

Thanks and photos to follow
In some cases you should set switch off, why? Ask tech guy from factory
It depend on electronics, in my case:
- old gm 95 I don't have switch ,
- new gm 2010 I should set it off because some power can back to battery
or something.

Now, red wire is for some power that it back to speedo, but it
increase voltage so fets can work

So before cut just ask others, but I never found that anyone cut red + wire :-)

Just take power from 1S lipo, put end point from booster to RX and feel free

Good luck!

m
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Old 09-28-2010, 03:37 PM   #34710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
ok guys i have all my 1/12th stuff

Question about the booster , in the instructions it seys to leave the speedo turned off

Is it not better to remove the red + wire from the reciever wire to the servo ??

Thanks and photos to follow
Depends on the speedo. Some need to be turned off. The Tekin RS can be turned on, if on the voltage cutoff will work, if off it won't. I leave it off.

Wire removal? I haven't removed any. Shouldn't be any need to if everything else is done properly.

Trev
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