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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-25-2010, 06:17 PM   #34666
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Originally Posted by Farmer_John View Post
The only way I can get a response from the motor is with the receiver pack plugged in, the 1s battery plugged in and the center wire attached to the plug and plugged in. Esc power switch in off position.
What center wire, what plug? If you are talking about the red center wire on the esc wiring harnes, with Tekins you need to leave that in. Not sure about SP's
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Last edited by wingracer; 09-25-2010 at 07:32 PM.
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Old 09-25-2010, 07:18 PM   #34667
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Might want to check with "evilgrafix" he seems to be the expert on
12th scale cars and set ups!
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Old 09-25-2010, 10:28 PM   #34668
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
What center wire, what plug? If you are talking about the red center wire on the esc wiring harnes, with Tekins you need to leave that in. Not sure about SP's
Yes, I am referring to the "power" wire from the esc.

My concern is if I leave it connected, then run a receiver pack (in this case a 6.6v life) won't the car's total electronics "see" over 10 volts?

It's one thing to get the magic smoke through failure of the electronics, it's another to cause it.
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Old 09-25-2010, 10:35 PM   #34669
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Originally Posted by Farmer_John View Post
Yes, I am referring to the "power" wire from the esc.

My concern is if I leave it connected, then run a receiver pack (in this case a 6.6v life) won't the car's total electronics "see" over 10 volts?

It's one thing to get the magic smoke through failure of the electronics, it's another to cause it.
On Tekins, no. I doubt a SP would either but I don't know for sure.

Tekins you leave the wire in and turn both switches on. It will work with the esc switch off but then you have no voltage cutoff.

Besides, I saw an ad for a guy selling genuine Lucas replacement smoke so it's all good
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Old 09-25-2010, 11:01 PM   #34670
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Besides, I saw an ad for a guy selling genuine Lucas replacement smoke so it's all good
Nice! A "prince of darkness" reference!
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Old 09-25-2010, 11:16 PM   #34671
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Originally Posted by TonyK View Post
I will be running a RS. I can't decide between running a receiver battery or booseter. What are the cons if any for both?
Hi mate, I have used a small 50mAh 5 cell pack for many years, with no problems at all. I did have a spare charger and it became second nature to charge that small pack (@.5 amp) whilst charging the main 4 cell pack.

I did recently try out a Novak booster, and found that it did not work with my Tekin RS with the 203 software. Strange things happened, like the turbo function would not work, for example. I uninstalled the 203, and used the older version software, and it ran fine, just not fast enough!

I have now got a TQ booster, and it is brilliant. No more worries about recharging the RX pack! All's I did was solder a very small connector from one of the battery posts on the esc, and the other end to the booster so that taking the electronics out for maintenance is made a little easier.

It's so small, you can install it anywhere on your chassis. That's my 2p worth, cheers!
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Old 09-26-2010, 06:36 AM   #34672
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Some people only have a single charger and charging the main pack and a receiver pack in time for the next heat can be a problem. Again it is all about personal preference. So don't slam my opinion and try to make out like I am a dumbass!
I think you're reading into my post, it was not meant as a slam of any sort. I was simply stating what had happened to me and giving the other side to your story. You had mentioned you may forget to charge the RX pack and it just occurred to me that you have to charge both packs. If you remember to do one, it's just as easy to do both.

Nothing personal at all, just showing both sides.
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Old 09-26-2010, 06:49 AM   #34673
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Originally Posted by EVILGRAFX View Post
I had a booster go bad on me out of the blue. Since then, I only run RX packs. Our HS doesn't stock boosters and I'm not carrying an extra in my box.
I'm sure at some point you've had a motor "go bad on" you too...have you quit using those as well?

Quote:
Originally Posted by EVILGRAFX View Post
As far as people saying things about forgetting to charge the RX pack, I ask, Do you forget to charge your other battery too? I'm sure there are people who forget to charge their batteries, both main pack and RX pack but, I have a dual charger and all I do is top one while I'm charging the other.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hairy View Post
Some people only have a single charger and charging the main pack and a receiver pack in time for the next heat can be a problem. Again it is all about personal preference. So don't slam my opinion and try to make out like I am a dumbass!
I've got no idea if I'd forget to charge a receiver pack or not, and I've plenty of chargers...just grab one out of my planes kit. For me it's personal choice, and I opt for simple/convenient. The day I need (or feel I need) a receiver pack is the day my 1/12 cars go up on the shelf. Period. Talk about taking all of the convenience we have realized by going to the LiPo batteries and flushing it down the crapper...by adding the IN-convenience of yet another battery pack to keep track of.
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:13 AM   #34674
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
I'm sure at some point you've had a motor "go bad on" you too...have you quit using those as well?

I've got no idea if I'd forget to charge a receiver pack or not, and I've plenty of chargers...just grab one out of my planes kit. For me it's personal choice, and I opt for simple/convenient. The day I need (or feel I need) a receiver pack is the day my 1/12 cars go up on the shelf. Period. Talk about taking all of the convenience we have realized by going to the LiPo batteries and flushing it down the crapper...by adding the IN-convenience of yet another battery pack to keep track of.
Yes, I have had a motor go bad but, as I posted earlier, my HS doesn't stock boosters, they do however stock motors. If a booster goes bad in the middle of race day and I don't keep an extra in my box, I have to pack up and leave. In a points season, missing even one qualifier can cost you the entire days worth of points and one day of points can cost you the entire season.


My original post was just to show the other side of the story. The first person asking wanted to know the pros and cons of each and I was only showing my side of the story.

The way I see it, there is no one right way to do it. You prefer your way and I prefer my way.
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:19 AM   #34675
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Originally Posted by EVILGRAFX View Post
I think you're reading into my post, it was not meant as a slam of any sort. I was simply stating what had happened to me and giving the other side to your story. You had mentioned you may forget to charge the RX pack and it just occurred to me that you have to charge both packs. If you remember to do one, it's just as easy to do both.

Nothing personal at all, just showing both sides.
I was NOT "reading into your post" as you say, I only read what is written. You used the direct reference "DO YOU" forget to charge..... that was pointed to me as if I am stupid.That's o.k. you don't know me and I don't care. people like you feel better when you try to make yourself feel superor to others,I understand.
I have my opinion and you have yours. The differecne between us is I RESPECT YOURS ENOUGH to not try to make you feel inferior.Have Nice Day!
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Old 09-26-2010, 10:08 AM   #34676
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Maybe it's the track location or voodoo but boosters are not used, we all use LiFe, NiMH or Lipo Rx packs and not one glitch or failure throughout the entire season.

Novak and TQ boosters were tried previously but none were working quite as nicely as the tiny Rx packs.

Like I said it may be the location of the track. Who knows?
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Old 09-26-2010, 11:14 AM   #34677
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Thanks slowerone, is speedtech available in the states? Sounds like it is pretty good stuff.
No idea. Contact Markus Mobers (markus962@hotmail.com) for details. HTH
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Old 09-26-2010, 11:28 AM   #34678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
Hey guys...for those of you that use the 'original' Associated front end, I have a bunch of new parts for ya. Alum caster blocks, plastic caster blocks, hingepins w/spacers, kingpins, BMI-style large diameter front springs, BMI alum lower arm spacers (from 3mm-5.5mm), lower arms AND lowered lower arms. I also have NIB Jacos' - (5) pair of Dbl Pink Rears, (2) pair of Purple Fronts and (1) pair of Lilac Fronts.
Not too interested in splittin' everything up but not opposed to it. Get at me thru a PM if you're interested
Any takers?
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Old 09-26-2010, 01:21 PM   #34679
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Wow! It's just a choice between one thing or another. I am sure if you have been into RC for a few years you know what you need to carry to avoid having to go home within 10 minutes of paying your race/practice fee.

Personally, I have 2 boosters and will pickup 2 batts just to be safe. It's not that I have money to burn, I just decided not to buy fast food for a week. I know my priorities......
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Old 09-26-2010, 01:30 PM   #34680
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Any takers?
FREE
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