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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-23-2010, 11:24 PM   #34621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
Aside from the LACK OF TRACTION I'd agree. We actually race toy cars, so we use what toy car racers use.
Go figure...works great for me and several folks here. On our track about 2/3-3/4 have been running Niftech for about 3 years now, the rest generally use Jack.

Something we did for our 2-day race last spring was put some Jack in a spray bottle and spray a little down in a strip on the straight on Friday when the track was completed. This tracked around and the track grooved in very nicely. No one, even the out-of-towners who often complained about the traction, had a lack of grip.
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Old 09-23-2010, 11:28 PM   #34622
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Go figure...works great for me and several folks here. On our track about 2/3-3/4 have been running Niftech for about 3 years now, the rest generally use Jack.

Something we did for our 2-day race last spring was put some Jack in a spray bottle and spray a little down in a strip on the straight on Friday when the track was completed. This tracked around and the track grooved in very nicely. No one, even the out-of-towners who often complained about the traction, had a lack of grip.
We used it as the "SPEC" traction at WOH in Cincy for a season, the track never had any bite. Switched to Paragon and magically our testing became relevant for big races. I actually love Niftech on top of a Paragon groove. It can free-up a car that's too tight. But when used exclusively, we found it wasn't enough. Maybe our turnout was too low.......
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Old 09-23-2010, 11:34 PM   #34623
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Refresh my memory, what were they using at the worlds? This first stuff didn't groove up at all and the second stuff grooved up almost instantly.
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Old 09-24-2010, 09:52 AM   #34624
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Hi guys

I am new to 1/12th scale , i have just bough my 1st a Corally 12SL

i plan to use my Tekin RS speedo and a 13.5 motor , but how do i go about boosting my Lipo voltage from 3.7v to the needed voltage for the servo and reciever ???

also how bigger lipo will i need ?? 5000 or bigger ??

Thanks Phil
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Old 09-24-2010, 09:57 AM   #34625
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you need a booster like the one TQ sells or the rc dynamic,4-5k maH is fine

http://www.rcdynamics.co.uk/Products.html

http://www.tqcells.com/TQBOOSTER.htm
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Old 09-24-2010, 09:58 AM   #34626
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Or a receiver pack.
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:00 AM   #34627
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Hey there, I'm taking on a 2nd class this year running 1/12th 17.5. I have success running a tekin rs with 203 software and a novak 10.5, but I'm not sure where to start with the 17.5. I read the last 50-60 pages and it just just touched on the subject and it was mostly with no boost.

My questions are:
1) is there a good set up for my tekin rs(boost turbo) 17.5
2)roll out. I read ppl are using 55t-60t pinions but thats for non boosted classes... Track size is 100x48
3) motor I was going to go back to novak for 17.5 is that a good choice or is there something better.

Sorry for all the noob like questions... I usually do my own research(ie read thread) but the season opener is around the corner and I like to order up everything asap
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:01 AM   #34628
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Phil, just sift a few pages back and u will see a couple post between myself and TrevCoult. That will give you more information on running a booster. Your other option is running a Rx pack, for example Amainhobbies Protek 200mah Rx pack.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
Hi guys

I am new to 1/12th scale , i have just bough my 1st a Corally 12SL

i plan to use my Tekin RS speedo and a 13.5 motor , but how do i go about boosting my Lipo voltage from 3.7v to the needed voltage for the servo and reciever ???

also how bigger lipo will i need ?? 5000 or bigger ??

Thanks Phil
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:49 AM   #34629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Or a receiver pack.
+1
there are some really nice SMC LiFE 6.6v 200mah packs with switches that hit the scene at IIC. I'm running a basic 200mah LiFE pack myself.
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:53 AM   #34630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by safaridog View Post
Hey there, I'm taking on a 2nd class this year running 1/12th 17.5. I have success running a tekin rs with 203 software and a novak 10.5, but I'm not sure where to start with the 17.5. I read the last 50-60 pages and it just just touched on the subject and it was mostly with no boost.

My questions are:
1) is there a good set up for my tekin rs(boost turbo) 17.5
2)roll out. I read ppl are using 55t-60t pinions but thats for non boosted classes... Track size is 100x48
3) motor I was going to go back to novak for 17.5 is that a good choice or is there something better.

Sorry for all the noob like questions... I usually do my own research(ie read thread) but the season opener is around the corner and I like to order up everything asap

I don't have exact Tekin settings yet but 50/8 or 45/8 should be ideal for a novak with a bunch of timing already in it. In non-boosted 17.5 people should gear from 95mm to 105mm. Always talk roll out... not just pinion and spur.

Pick up some small spurs - 71 or 72t. Prs has them. Pinion sizes from 46 to 55 and u should be covered.
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:54 AM   #34631
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Refresh my memory, what were they using at the worlds? This first stuff didn't groove up at all and the second stuff grooved up almost instantly.
The first stuff was Jack-the-Gripper, and the second stuff was Speedtech. In Europe we use CS High-Grip or Speedtech, and it brings the bite up well even on a Club night.

Why the JtG didn't work on a CRC carpet at the Worlds is a mystery. There are all sorts of theories about what is in the 'Euro' version of JtG compared to the US version, and what people were or weren't doing to their additive, but the fact remains that the JtG provided for the Worlds didn't work, and the Speedtech did. One day someone will tell us... HTH
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:55 AM   #34632
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the problem with a receiver pack is it will need charging after every run ,

i am totally new to 1s and 1/12th

i understnad i need 6v for the reciever/servo but what is best and safest ?

A reciever pack will only feed the reviever and servo the 1s lipo will power the speedo and motor , am i right in thinking this ???

A voltage booster just boosts the voltage from the lipo to the reciever and servo or am i wrong again (wont be the 1st time ) ??
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:58 AM   #34633
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
the problem with a receiver pack is it will need charging after every run ,

i am totally new to 1s and 1/12th

i understnad i need 6v for the reciever/servo but what is best and safest ?

A reciever pack will only feed the reviever and servo the 1s lipo will power the speedo and motor , am i right in thinking this ???

A voltage booster just boosts the voltage from the lipo to the reciever and servo or am i wrong again (wont be the 1st time ) ??
You are right except most receiver packs will get at least two runs. I run a 330mah pack and only use about 85mah per 8 min run.
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:07 AM   #34634
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Thanks slowerone, is speedtech available in the states? Sounds like it is pretty good stuff.
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Old 09-24-2010, 12:53 PM   #34635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
I don't have exact Tekin settings yet but 50/8 or 45/8 should be ideal for a novak with a bunch of timing already in it.
Hanulec thanks for the answers. I'm bit confused when you mention 50/8 45/8
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