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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-23-2010, 03:12 PM   #34606
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Originally Posted by nashrcracer View Post
PARAGON GROUND EFFECTS FOR LIFE

ok that is the best for 12th scale lasts the full race on any track. now with that being said some tracks mandate other brands like jack the gripper as it doesn't smell like wintergreen which I don't mind. stickyfingers from trinity suxs and even jack has issues for a 8 minute race unless everybody is using it. Niftech has some stuff that some of the other 12th scale drive stand by but I have not used it. I would check with your local track to see if they have a preference so that you can get it and that your permiating the carpet with similar compound.
Sticky Fingers sucks? Pulfer and I have found it to work exceptionally well. It's the traction of choice at Tri-State, and at Access RacePlace. Holds all eight minutes, the only thing I hate about it is the d@mn bingo dauber.

That being said, if I had to rate them in order of effectiveness:

1. Ground Effects

2. FXII

3. Sticky Fingers

4. Jack the Gripper

5. Traction Action

6. Niftech (although your track will NEVER groove up and get great traction)

I believe the TQ products should never be used on carpet. The citrus oil never evaporates and the track becomes "greasy" They work great in dirt oval though.

Just what I've found over the years.

I've never tried any of the Euro (LRP, ORION etc), compounds with the exception of Jack.
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Old 09-23-2010, 03:18 PM   #34607
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Originally Posted by nashrcracer View Post
Man, it'd be a shame for a car of that caliber to miss the US Indoor Champs.....
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Old 09-23-2010, 03:20 PM   #34608
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I would agree with that ranking completely except that I have never tried niftech so I don't know where it should rank.

Also, recently tried sticky fingers on rcgt rubber and it worked really well.
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Old 09-23-2010, 05:28 PM   #34609
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Thank Trev, that's what I needed to read. Looks like I will be placing an order for one. Nicely written article as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
It will supply a constant 6V all the way through a run, it has a built in switch so easier to wire and fit on the car, it is built with military grade electronics so very reliable and little electronic noise. There's more, just click on the link written above and read. Not cheap, but definitely the best on the market.

I reviewed it a while ago, link is http://www.carsrcracing.co.uk/?p=183

Trev
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Old 09-23-2010, 05:53 PM   #34610
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
6. Niftech (although your track will NEVER groove up and get great traction)
Why? Because it's not tracking greasy $hit all over your track. If you showed up at a "real" race with something on your tires (or anywhere else on or around your car) that got onto the track you'd be shown the door in a hurry.

But TOY car racers...



And using Niftech is such a pleasant experience compared to the others (ESPECIALLY Jack the Slimer)...daub it on, let the carrier evaporate off. No greasy, oily, nasty gooey tires to deal with, wipe, rub on your belly (yes, I've seen your shirts...) OR GET ALL OVER THE TRACK.

But TOY car racers...
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:25 PM   #34611
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gotta love how a discussion on traction compound brings out all of the 1/12th scale lovers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
Man, it'd be a shame for a car of that caliber to miss the US Indoor Champs.....
Ian - your promoting really hard man that you'll even take that messy ass wiring job at your race. i think you need to raise your standards
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:27 PM   #34612
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So what's White Jesus's opinion on compounds?
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:33 PM   #34613
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So what's White Jesus's opinion on compounds?
when i got back into racing my local track, 360 rc speedway - rip, used to run black can paragon. grip was always amazing. 360 closed... and now i run at horsham rc and last year we used jack until we couldn't buy it anymore and started using either SXT v3 or sticky fingers. if you're lucky enough to have a bunch of racers jack/sxt/sticky is fine, but if you have a smaller crew you NEED ground effects (and maybe some aspirin, or a stiff drink as that stuff just smells)
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:34 PM   #34614
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As far as the axle they are all pretty much the same...where I have problems is in what attaches to the axle like the hubs. Previous to my Copperhead I had to over tighten the IRS left side hub to keep it from slipping and as a result cracked 3 of them right where the screw head goes through. The IRS left side hub on my Copperhead has not had this issue. I think it has to do with it being re-annodized. It just seems to hold better without using a gorilla grip to tighten it. I rather like the angle of the slot on the CRC axle better because when you tighten it up the 2 sides meet more flush and will have less propensity to crack. However the one I had the wheel screw holes were all crooked (Probably just got one that slipped through inspection). But I wouldn't worry about that as all the ones I have seen on friends cars since then have been straight. My favorite left side hub though was the thread on one that AE used to use. Never had to worry about a balance issue and it never slipped on the axle. The problem though was in axle spacing...there was pretty much only 1 width you could run with it. I also heard some people had issues with the threaded part coming out of the axle.
Hi mate, I have used several differant 'US' type axles, and found by putting a very small spacer, or washer on the hub that clamps onto the axle, you can do the screw up tight enough so that it does not slip on the axle, but no so tight that it puts excessive force onto the axle itself. The spacer/washer goes on the threaded part of the screw between the two halves that clamp together once you have tightened the screw. Hope that makes sense. I would also say that my favorite axle is the Corally axle that takes the Corally type wheels. The design is really superb, but it will only fit on Corally chassis's of course.
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:40 PM   #34615
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the more i think about it.. i actually think rubber TC is more effected by traction compounds (and track conditions) than pan cars with good tires (i.e. 1/12th... and not hard spec wgt tires). prior to vegas i practiced at a big but dirty track. my 1/12th scale felt great there although it was sprung really heavy.. such that i could of never driven it like that at IIC. on the other had my touring cars were complete piles spinning out under acceleration.
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Old 09-23-2010, 07:00 PM   #34616
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Hi mate, I have used several differant 'US' type axles, and found by putting a very small spacer, or washer on the hub that clamps onto the axle, you can do the screw up tight enough so that it does not slip on the axle, but no so tight that it puts excessive force onto the axle itself. The spacer/washer goes on the threaded part of the screw between the two halves that clamp together once you have tightened the screw. Hope that makes sense. I would also say that my favorite axle is the Corally axle that takes the Corally type wheels. The design is really superb, but it will only fit on Corally chassis's of course.
Yeah I was thinking on doing that...but all of my screw on type axles have a flange that the gear rides on instead of using a bearing so it isn't as smooth. May be something I look at again in the future.
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:41 PM   #34617
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Was that a shorter axle? The name Niftech sounds familiar. I believe thats what I was told it is


BTW....whats the part# of the best axle with no comparison?
Nope, that is not a Niftech axle. I'm positive that is a Japanese axle and I'm pretty sure it's a Kawada. Niftech stuff is made here in the USA.

The Niftech part # for their hollow axle is 1005, the diff hub is #1011 (disclaimer: the Niftech catalog is confusing so no guarantee on the #s). Their left side hub is a thing of beauty but pretty bulky. It also used to be too wide but with brushless motor pods moved to the right it will probably work. I just use an IRS left hub.

The Niftech diff is pinned for their "Rocket" diff rings, D rings won't fit. So when you've bought the whole deal the cost is over $100.00, but IMO well worth it
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:47 PM   #34618
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Have you seen Niftech's website? I don't think it has been updated recently. The product lineup is out dated.

http://niftech.com/
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Old 09-23-2010, 10:30 PM   #34619
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And using Niftech is such a pleasant experience compared to the others.
Aside from the LACK OF TRACTION I'd agree. We actually race toy cars, so we use what toy car racers use.
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Old 09-23-2010, 10:38 PM   #34620
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
gotta love how a discussion on traction compound brings out all of the 1/12th scale lovers.



Ian - your promoting really hard man that you'll even take that messy ass wiring job at your race. i think you need to raise your standards
I just like having Nash to kick around at races. Maybe it would be a good idea to enter myself, even though I'm not racing, so he could actually finish ahead of me...... j/k Dirla.......
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