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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-22-2010, 12:15 PM   #34576
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Has anyone ran the new 1S saddle packs on their T-bar cars? If so, how is it compared to a 1S link car?
Yes, very good. I own a TBar S120 and it is very comparable to a link car. If you have a TBar car then you should try this pack out. Speedzone was very easy to order from too.

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Old 09-22-2010, 08:07 PM   #34577
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7.5 lrp and BD testing
left it on setting 2 and 4 dot and went to 60mm ro and it was considerably faster and fun. motor came off 145F and speedo 135 battery was 125 so it did pull the juice. going to charge her up and check how much it pulled. but I think its fast enough to get me around the track. one thing I did do was take it easier on the start so not to kill the tires as last time it fell off about 7 minutes in traction on the rear. probably the fact that we haven't had a race on the carpet since april. I'm going to kick it up to setting 3 and 4 friday and see what I get. 12th scale rocks. quesiton for the mod racers with a 4.5 or 5.5 do you get them 160F on carpet? I was driving it like a stock motor grip it and rip it. I know not the way I should be but just for testing and practice. I mean 145 doesn't sound hot but I don't remember getting a 17.5 with a tekin much hotter then 125 135 at the birds this year.
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Old 09-22-2010, 09:50 PM   #34578
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
Has anyone ran the new 1S saddle packs on their T-bar cars? If so, how is it compared to a 1S link car?
That you Roger?

Ran the 12L3 at IIC this year using the LiPo saddle pack. Loved it. Not skilled enough to notice a difference from the 12R5.1 that I ran and sold last year.
Good enough for me, handled great.

If getting the saddle pack gets you out there, get the saddle pack.
Hope to race with you soon.

Jeff Smith
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Old 09-22-2010, 10:09 PM   #34579
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Originally Posted by nashrcracer View Post
7.5 lrp and BD testing
left it on setting 2 and 4 dot and went to 60mm ro and it was considerably faster and fun. motor came off 145F and speedo 135 battery was 125 so it did pull the juice. going to charge her up and check how much it pulled. but I think its fast enough to get me around the track. one thing I did do was take it easier on the start so not to kill the tires as last time it fell off about 7 minutes in traction on the rear. probably the fact that we haven't had a race on the carpet since april. I'm going to kick it up to setting 3 and 4 friday and see what I get. 12th scale rocks. quesiton for the mod racers with a 4.5 or 5.5 do you get them 160F on carpet? I was driving it like a stock motor grip it and rip it. I know not the way I should be but just for testing and practice. I mean 145 doesn't sound hot but I don't remember getting a 17.5 with a tekin much hotter then 125 135 at the birds this year.
Temps should be much tye same as you will as you will use less gearing and less full throttle.
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Old 09-22-2010, 10:36 PM   #34580
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Default TC vs 1/12th diff maintainence

I am interested in moving from 1/10 TC to 1/12 th. I was wondering how reliable and low maintenance the 1/12th differential is in comparison to the typical 1:10 scale 4wd belt driven differentials are. Assuming my goal is not eeking out the last tiny increment of speed but rather maximizing my track time relative to my wrench time.
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Old 09-22-2010, 10:43 PM   #34581
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I am interested in moving from 1/10 TC to 1/12 th. I was wondering how reliable and low maintenance the 1/12th differential is in comparison to the typical 1:10 scale 4wd belt driven differentials are. Assuming my goal is not eeking out the last tiny increment of speed but rather maximizing my track time relative to my wrench time.
I usually rebuild it during the week before I go to the track and it's fine all day. If I'm lazy and have to run a second day on it, it's still fine. Since you are not looking for that last tiny fraction of speed, use a thrust bearing instead of the usual cone pushing on the ball bearing. And then when you do rebuild it, it is MUCH easier to do than a TC.
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Old 09-23-2010, 01:00 AM   #34582
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Hi i'm new to 1/12 not ever owned one. ive just bought a CRC Gen x to have a play with indoor, nothink serious !

Anyone tell me if i can fit 1 cell lipo and a brushless motor without having to purchase any special parts that are used on the XL version ?

Also what the crack with receiver packs ? Are these required to power the receiver due to the voltage of the batterys used ?

I think i'm going to use My Lrp SPX with this.

Any information would be apprecieted, i havent received the car yet hence the questions.

thanks

mike
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Old 09-23-2010, 01:36 AM   #34583
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Originally Posted by imjonah View Post
I am interested in moving from 1/10 TC to 1/12 th. I was wondering how reliable and low maintenance the 1/12th differential is in comparison to the typical 1:10 scale 4wd belt driven differentials are. Assuming my goal is not eeking out the last tiny increment of speed but rather maximizing my track time relative to my wrench time.
This will depend heavily on how clean the surface you race on is and also how much power you bolt in. On a clean track with a 10.5 you can do an entire day with a few practice runs with no problems. Bolt in more serious power (AKA 5.5t and lower) and you will need to rebuild the diff more often just as you do when you bolt in heaps of power in a TC.

Keep in mind that rebuilding a 12th scale diff only takes a few short minutes. It is a very simple case of removing one bolt, cleaning the plates and spur, greasing, and re-assemble. The most time consuming thing to do between runs on a 12th scale (assuming no setup changes) is swapping the wheels from side to side so they wear evenly and then gooping.

12th scale is very easy to run once you know what you are doing.
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Old 09-23-2010, 05:50 AM   #34584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imjonah View Post
I am interested in moving from 1/10 TC to 1/12 th. I was wondering how reliable and low maintenance the 1/12th differential is in comparison to the typical 1:10 scale 4wd belt driven differentials are. Assuming my goal is not eeking out the last tiny increment of speed but rather maximizing my track time relative to my wrench time.
The slapmaster thrust bearing will allow you to run for a very long time with hardly any need to service the diff. An IRS type of solid cone will yield the most free diff possible. But it's a little hard on the diff's outer bearing. So, while the IRS setup will give you the absolute best possible diff action, it does require a little more attention. I run the solid cone in mine and, for club racing, I go a couple of weeks between cleaning and re-lubing the diff. At big events, I re-do the diff once per race day. As others have said, servicing the diff in a 1/12th scale car is a quick and easy process. If you don't want to change the outer bearing occasionally, I suggest the slapmaster thrust bearing. And if you want the freest diff action possible, then the solid cone is the way to go. As a side bar, it's important to use a diff nut that goes straight onto the threaded stud that's sticking out of the axle. Often the plastic nuts don't thread on straight. So they push harder on one side of the thrust cone (or bearing) than on the other side. A crooked diff nut will make it impossible to obtain a free diff action. The easiest way to overcome this issue is to use an aluminum nut with the nylon locking collar. Those are threaded at the factory so the threads are square with the flat surface that presses on the diff cone. Lot's of guys overlook this simple item. If you use a crooked nylon diff nut with a rigid diff cone, the outer bearing will go bad almost immediately, and your always crunchy diff will drive you crazy. So it's well worth the trouble to find a diff nut that threads on absolutely straight. Just buy a couple of the aluminum locknuts. Problem solved. Happy motoring.
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:16 AM   #34585
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As a side bar, it's important to use a diff nut that goes straight onto the threaded stud that's sticking out of the axle. Often the plastic nuts don't thread on straight. So they push harder on one side of the thrust cone (or bearing) than on the other side. A crooked diff nut will make it impossible to obtain a free diff action. The easiest way to overcome this issue is to use an aluminum nut with the nylon locking collar. Those are threaded at the factory so the threads are square with the flat surface that presses on the diff cone. Lot's of guys overlook this simple item. If you use a crooked nylon diff nut with a rigid diff cone, the outer bearing will go bad almost immediately, and your always crunchy diff will drive you crazy. So it's well worth the trouble to find a diff nut that threads on absolutely straight. Just buy a couple of the aluminum locknuts. Problem solved. Happy motoring.
I hadn't thought of that... But my diff has been very good latley WITH the plastic nut... will be interesting to see if it is any better with a proper nut.
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:44 AM   #34586
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The difference isn't in whether the diff nut is plastic or aluminum w/nylon, but if the plastic diff nut is threaded on STRAIGHT Dragonfire.
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:48 AM   #34587
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Originally Posted by finch View Post
Hi i'm new to 1/12 not ever owned one. ive just bought a CRC Gen x to have a play with indoor, nothink serious !

Anyone tell me if i can fit 1 cell lipo and a brushless motor without having to purchase any special parts that are used on the XL version ?

Also what the crack with receiver packs ? Are these required to power the receiver due to the voltage of the batterys used ?

I think i'm going to use My Lrp SPX with this.

Any information would be apprecieted, i havent received the car yet hence the questions.

thanks

mike
Hey Mike, depends on which gen x you got. Because some later ones have the brushless pod on them so all you would not have to buy any special parts. If you could post a picture that would help. You do need a small receiver pack because the speed controllers are not set to run on the 3.7v they normally use 6v. You can get a li-fe pack that will give you 6.6v max no regulater needed or a small 2s li-po pack 7.4v and pick up a regulator. There is another option of using a booster I know novak makes one and i forgot the other one people were using but I myself us a receiver pack.
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:30 AM   #34588
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Originally Posted by finch View Post
Hi i'm new to 1/12 not ever owned one. ive just bought a CRC Gen x to have a play with indoor, nothink serious !

Anyone tell me if i can fit 1 cell lipo and a brushless motor without having to purchase any special parts that are used on the XL version ?

Also what the crack with receiver packs ? Are these required to power the receiver due to the voltage of the batterys used ?

I think i'm going to use My Lrp SPX with this.

Any information would be apprecieted, i havent received the car yet hence the questions.

thanks

mike
Don't mess around with a receiver pack. Just get one of these: http://www.rcdynamics.co.uk/Products.html

The TQ Boosters work good to but the RC Dynamic boosters are located in the UK. That is all I use now.

The Novak will cut off under heavy amp draw loads about mid way through a 8 minute run. There is a way to disable the lipo protection but you need to contact Novak as you have to do some work on the device.
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Old 09-23-2010, 11:12 AM   #34589
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just a quick picture of the 7.5 test bed
pulled a cyrul and lenghtened the shock location on my genx not sure if it's helping anything but my mental state. but it has seemed to soften it out on the bumpy portions of the track. atlest I haven't gotten air from the front end bouncing up in the air like it did with the 10.5 in the car last winter.

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Old 09-23-2010, 12:34 PM   #34590
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i m new to pan car, just having a quick question. what kind of traction compound you guys use for indoor on your foam tires?
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