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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-20-2010, 12:32 PM   #34561
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Originally Posted by darrenoakley View Post
Can anyone link me to the rollout post please. Would be interesting to read. I have a bit of an understanding but would be greatfull for more info. No micky taking I promise
Another option is http://www.gearchart.com
You can save rollout charts with the Gear Chart Creator
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Old 09-20-2010, 12:34 PM   #34562
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Originally Posted by 1fastdude View Post
Nash, are you running a modified class? If so you need to be running a 4.5

well I accidentally ordered a 7.5 instead of a 17.5 last year before Cleveland and would like to use it just because it's been sitting for a year. Just thinking about it. If anything it would give me some good practice before I get back to 17.5 12th scale open speedo. You know something slower to ease into it. hadn't driven my 12th since snowbirds and I remember why I love 12th scale. Control rules. Got a bd in the car on setting 2 now, 1 didn't have anything with the 7.5 I can fell the difference with setting 2. but still think I'm out in left field.
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Old 09-20-2010, 12:42 PM   #34563
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Ok I know in 1/12 modified last year I was running a 4.5 with a 23 tooth, can't remember what spur (I think 88T) You would probably need to go to a 27 or 28 tooth!
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Old 09-20-2010, 12:48 PM   #34564
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Originally Posted by nashrcracer View Post
well I accidentally ordered a 7.5 instead of a 17.5 last year before Cleveland and would like to use it just because it's been sitting for a year. Just thinking about it. If anything it would give me some good practice before I get back to 17.5 12th scale open speedo. You know something slower to ease into it. hadn't driven my 12th since snowbirds and I remember why I love 12th scale. Control rules. Got a bd in the car on setting 2 now, 1 didn't have anything with the 7.5 I can fell the difference with setting 2. but still think I'm out in left field.
I ran an X12 6.5 Octa in 12th mod at the Roar Nats with a Tekin RS
47 roll, 25 boost, 12 turbo, 2 dot insert. if that helps any ?
It was plenty quick, and very smooth off the bottom.
Temp never over 130f.
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Old 09-20-2010, 07:46 PM   #34565
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Last edited by Josh Keller; 09-21-2010 at 07:38 PM.
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Old 09-20-2010, 08:28 PM   #34566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nashrcracer View Post
well I accidentally ordered a 7.5 instead of a 17.5 last year before Cleveland and would like to use it just because it's been sitting for a year. Just thinking about it. If anything it would give me some good practice before I get back to 17.5 12th scale open speedo. You know something slower to ease into it. hadn't driven my 12th since snowbirds and I remember why I love 12th scale. Control rules. Got a bd in the car on setting 2 now, 1 didn't have anything with the 7.5 I can fell the difference with setting 2. but still think I'm out in left field.
Aim your rollout to be around 50mm (1.97"). That should give you some speed. With your tires at 1.70" (43mm), you can try 31/84.
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Old 09-20-2010, 11:56 PM   #34567
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Originally Posted by hardmankam View Post
Aim your rollout to be around 50mm (1.97"). That should give you some speed. With your tires at 1.70" (43mm), you can try 31/84.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I ran an X12 6.5 Octa in 12th mod at the Roar Nats with a Tekin RS
47 roll, 25 boost, 12 turbo, 2 dot insert. if that helps any ?
It was plenty quick, and very smooth off the bottom.
Temp never over 130f.
thanks that puts me in better range. I guess the 44 was a little low then. I'll be at the track tomorrow so I'll try to update what it feels like and temps.
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Old 09-20-2010, 11:58 PM   #34568
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Originally Posted by nashrcracer View Post
thanks that puts me in better range. I guess the 44 was a little low then. I'll be at the track tomorrow so I'll try to update what it feels like and temps.
I think you would easilly get away with 60mm rollout on the Black Diamond and a 7.5 on profile 2
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Old 09-21-2010, 01:43 PM   #34569
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Default New Lipo Chassis for R5 and 120L

On-Point Racing presents

R5 Lipo Ready Chassis!!

Features that differ from the stock chassis:

*Solid chassis for more corner speed and consistent handling
*wider front end spacing for an easier to drive car
*2 battery positions for fine tuning, battery is supported by CRC3373
*JR and Futaba/KO servo holes


S120L Lipo Ready Chassis Kit!!

Features that differ from the stock chassis:

*Solid chassis for more corner speed and consistent handling
*2 battery positions for fine tuning, battery is supported by CRC3373
*JR and Futaba/KO servo holes
*Laydown servo position for better ackerman, lower center of gravity and more room for electronics
*Accepts side to side damper tubes for more consistent handling with lipo batteries and high traction
*Motor moved more to the right for a better balanced pod

What's included:

Lipo Chassis
Top plate for offset motor and damper tubes
Bottom plate for offset motor
Cross brace to accept damper tubes

Any inquiries or pricing information please email info@onpointracing.com or pm on R/C Tech
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-120l-lipo.jpg   1/12 forum-r5lipo.jpg  
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Old 09-21-2010, 08:53 PM   #34570
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started out with a 50mm ro and the motor came off 130 and the speedo was 130 the room temp was 85. went to a 51 on the second pack and it was still only about 130. put 3400mahs back in the pack. so I have more power I can use. so I'm thinking of going to the 55 and trying a 2 dot timing spacer. when I can find it. it's in the pile somewhere. play with that tomorrow.
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:16 PM   #34571
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Originally Posted by nashrcracer View Post
started out with a 50mm ro and the motor came off 130 and the speedo was 130 the room temp was 85. went to a 51 on the second pack and it was still only about 130. put 3400mahs back in the pack. so I have more power I can use. so I'm thinking of going to the 55 and trying a 2 dot timing spacer. when I can find it. it's in the pile somewhere. play with that tomorrow.
I have run a 6.5, BD on profile 5 with a 60mm rollout. I would say you are waaaaaaaaaay off the mark. Especially if you are still on profile 2.
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:40 PM   #34572
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Originally Posted by nashrcracer View Post
started out with a 50mm ro and the motor came off 130 and the speedo was 130 the room temp was 85. went to a 51 on the second pack and it was still only about 130. put 3400mahs back in the pack. so I have more power I can use. so I'm thinking of going to the 55 and trying a 2 dot timing spacer. when I can find it. it's in the pile somewhere. play with that tomorrow.
Finding the right gearing is part of the fun. Each driver, each car, each track requires a different gearing. With the advanced ESC comes to play, you can fine tune using profiles (boost) or motor timing. The combination is unlimited.

Just keep gearing up until the motor temp hits 150~160F, then you know that is about the 'ballpark' figure and fine tune from there. good luck and let us know your findings later.
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:49 PM   #34573
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Originally Posted by nashrcracer View Post
started out with a 50mm ro and the motor came off 130 and the speedo was 130 the room temp was 85. went to a 51 on the second pack and it was still only about 130. put 3400mahs back in the pack. so I have more power I can use. so I'm thinking of going to the 55 and trying a 2 dot timing spacer. when I can find it. it's in the pile somewhere. play with that tomorrow.
Unless you can't get enough power with gearing and profile 5, stay with the 4dot tmming as it will kill your runtime and push temps up quite a bit.
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Old 09-22-2010, 11:02 AM   #34574
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Has anyone ran the new 1S saddle packs on their T-bar cars? If so, how is it compared to a 1S link car?
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Old 09-22-2010, 11:06 AM   #34575
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Has anyone ran the new 1S saddle packs on their T-bar cars? If so, how is it compared to a 1S link car?
I know a guy that did and loved it. The only reason he went back to the link car was that he only had the one saddle pack and didn't have time to charge it between rounds.

I would love to get one and break my good ole 12L4 back out.
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