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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-19-2010, 02:00 PM   #34546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Try to find a graph of the friction circle, how much force a tire can "hold" counting both cornering forces and driving forces on the tire.
Another great one. Way back in one of the F1 magazines was an article showing telemetry data from both Michael Schumacher and Mika Hakenen explaining why they thought Michael was the better driver. The crowning graph of the article was a series of friction circles from both drivers showing that Michael kept the little dot pegged to the outside of the circle pretty much all the way from brake zone to exit while Mika's showed some dips during the transition from braking to cornering and again on power corner exit.
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Old 09-19-2010, 02:34 PM   #34547
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Nope. Let me see if I can explain it. There are two reasons for the effect.

*Edited out to reduce the size*


Also, this subject can get even more confusing due to another effect. As I described above, moving the weight to the rear should make the car oversteer but there is a situation where this could be backward. Moving the weight back will make the car looser in a steady state corner but with a rear wheel drive car, the increase in rear weight could reduce wheel spin under power, improving rear traction. This is why offroad dirt cars have such a high rear weight distribution. So in this situation, moving the weight to the rear could result in more steering off power but less on power. Especially when powering off of a slow corner, but might have even MORE on power steering exiting a fast corner.
Which goes to what I normally see. Moving the weight forward does not always cause less steering. It largely depends on what percentage of the weight is moved forward. Steering will actually increase until you reach that point where the front slips due to the increase in weight before the rear slips due to the loss of weight.

Which is why cars like the Darkside with an in-line battery which moves the overall CG of the car forward sees an increase in steering but in cars with electronics in front of the battery sees a decrease in steering when they move the battery to the forward position. My guess is the in-line car comparatively has moved less of it's weight forward because part of the battery still sits in the rear and the electronics are more rearward as well. Also the center line placement with the old batteries probably played a factor in that as well since more of the mass was closer to the center line. However with today's lighter LiPo batteries this may no longer have the same affect since more of the weight percentage is now in the electronics.
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Old 09-19-2010, 03:55 PM   #34548
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Default will it work!!!

thought i would ask here. can someone please let me know if the crc pro strut front end works on a associated 12r5.1.

also does anyone have an opinion on the crc front end pro brace

thanks in advance
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Old 09-19-2010, 04:03 PM   #34549
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Nope, the CRC front end will fit just about anything else, but the 12R5 has a one-off front end screw spacing. Leave it to Associated to, basically, create a standard that pretty much everybody now follows (front end screw span) and then abandon it themselves.
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Old 09-19-2010, 04:11 PM   #34550
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Doesn't the Serpent front end come with different inserts so it will work on a 12r5? It's a similar design to the CRC.

Also, BMI will soon have their new front end available for the 12r5.
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Old 09-19-2010, 04:57 PM   #34551
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thanks guys, any idea when the bmi is scheduled for release
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Old 09-19-2010, 05:01 PM   #34552
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Hi Alf,

Great to meet you too. It was very interesting seeing your car up close.

Hand out would work but adds to the cost of racing considerably.
thanks

soon you will see my new chassis. Alf
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Old 09-19-2010, 05:04 PM   #34553
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thanks guys, any idea when the bmi is scheduled for release

kerry you have pm
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Old 09-19-2010, 05:42 PM   #34554
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thought i would ask here. can someone please let me know if the crc pro strut front end works on a associated 12r5.1.

also does anyone have an opinion on the crc front end pro brace

thanks in advance
Having played with it a little I didn't like it as it made the car push more in the middle of the corners. It didn't seem to increase response either so I would say its a quick and easy way to get rid of a little steering without scratching your head.
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Old 09-19-2010, 09:29 PM   #34555
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I've been running the AE front end for the last 1-2 years. Its durable and I have it down in terms of getting it to work correctly and keep it running, and knowing when/what is wrong with it. I am always trying to get rid of steering with my AE cars as our track is low low grip carpet and the AE seems to have gobs of steering.

I have been trying a CRC for the last 2 weeks and it has stood up well. I agree that the long front arms and CF cross brace seems to take away some steering, at least compared to teh AE cars. It may be the servo being stood up as well. Racing the CRC today was the first time I can ever remember trying to dial steering -into- a 12th scale at my home track. It was an awesome feeling.

AFAIK there is no way to get a Pro strut front end on an AE car, short of cutting your own chassis. You can however get an AE front end on a CRC using some aftermarket pieces.
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Old 09-19-2010, 10:17 PM   #34556
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anybody got a good starting RO for a LRP x12 7.5 I have the 4 dot in down. I put a 26 84 on it with 1.70 tires and it doesn't feel fast enough. I swear my 17.5 tc with a tekin has more speed. I saw that with a 4.0 x12 it would be a 22 88 on 1.68 tires but like I said it just don't feel fast. oh track is 92x50 with a pretty open layout
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Old 09-20-2010, 02:00 AM   #34557
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I used to run the CRC front end on my BMI with the long upper arms. For me the car felt a whole lot smoother this way and I found it much easier to drive.

However I have switched to the new BMI front end and really like it a lot. When I had the car running good it was very smooth...I just need more time in 1/12th in general to be able to dial in quick enough for races like the IIC.
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Old 09-20-2010, 02:28 AM   #34558
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Hey! my post was only a sentence

And we may tease you about the roll out post, but it is still the definitive statement on the subject, and the one I refer people to when asked about roll out
Can anyone link me to the rollout post please. Would be interesting to read. I have a bit of an understanding but would be greatfull for more info. No micky taking I promise
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Old 09-20-2010, 09:56 AM   #34559
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Can anyone link me to the rollout post please. Would be interesting to read. I have a bit of an understanding but would be greatfull for more info. No micky taking I promise
Sure, I just happened across it again last night.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/4639712-post28978.html
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Old 09-20-2010, 12:20 PM   #34560
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Originally Posted by nashrcracer View Post
anybody got a good starting RO for a LRP x12 7.5 I have the 4 dot in down. I put a 26 84 on it with 1.70 tires and it doesn't feel fast enough. I swear my 17.5 tc with a tekin has more speed. I saw that with a 4.0 x12 it would be a 22 88 on 1.68 tires but like I said it just don't feel fast. oh track is 92x50 with a pretty open layout
Nash, are you running a modified class? If so you need to be running a 4.5
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