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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-15-2010, 03:55 AM   #34501
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Attention all pan car racers !!

1st TQ Pan Car Grand Prix will be held on October 31st, Sunday.

Detailed rules and classes will be announced on

If you have any idea, comment and advice, please post a reply.

Thanks.
Since just about every 17.5 motor has a different timing value at the 0 mark you should rethink the timing on the motor part...
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Old 09-15-2010, 04:00 AM   #34502
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I have a 12L3 with the 4 cell chassis (broke the original 6 cell one ) how do I convert that for lipo? Ideally I just want a single one that runs across like stick pack but will that be possible or will I need to stick to the saddle pack conif? Thanks.
easiest if you place the lipo on 1 side and esc, receiver on the other side.

see below post for a reference photo:
T-Bar Lipo Safety Question?
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Old 09-15-2010, 05:09 AM   #34503
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Sorry if this question has been asked before, but here goes...

When converting from 4cell NiMh to 1cell Lipo, most people will have to re-gear to achieve a different rollout. The general formula is to add about 10mm for the same motor for this conversion. Eg: For a 10.5R motor: 4NiMh set @ 50mm then 1S Lipo will need to set @ 60mm.

Now my question is why?
Is it because the car is lighter, so that we can re-gear another 10mm of rollout without an increase in motor temp?OR
Is it because the voltage is less, so we need to increase 10mm rollout to match the speed of a 4cell car?

Sorry I am a little confused on this. Can someone please explain to me on this? Thanks in advance!
Its because the power is slightly lower (even with reduced weight) so you need more gear for the same speed...
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Old 09-15-2010, 08:06 AM   #34504
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Since just about every 17.5 motor has a different timing value at the 0 mark you should rethink the timing on the motor part...
Quote:
Originally Posted by HB Moose View Post
Adding it to my schedule. But no motor timing in the limited 17.5 class? I'll need even bigger pinions.

at IIC they had a limited 17.5 class? did it restrict sensor position on the motor or only ESC settings?

it would seem that a 'locked' motor rule should rule out some motors with some fixed timing?
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Old 09-15-2010, 02:30 PM   #34505
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At IIC only ESC timing was limited. We were allowed to run any motor timing we needed to make the motor competitive.

Given the way the trend is going I think we will eventually see a fixed timing motor and rule. But until all the motors are timed the same it isn't something that should be enforced unless someone can figure out exactly what timing mark on each motor is the same.
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Old 09-15-2010, 03:07 PM   #34506
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I would think that no boost would be enough control to be fair for club racing.
All motors have different specs of physical timing.

No need to bring on unnecessary restrictions that bring about other inequities in pace.
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Old 09-15-2010, 04:58 PM   #34507
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Originally Posted by one-nil View Post
I have a 12L3 with the 4 cell chassis (broke the original 6 cell one ) how do I convert that for lipo? Ideally I just want a single one that runs across like stick pack but will that be possible or will I need to stick to the saddle pack conif? Thanks.
Get the Speedzone 3.7v saddle pack. It will drop right in to the L3 and its an excellent battery. Placing a stick pack on one side and the electronics on the other works ok but you have to add way to much weight on the elctronics side to balance the car. I've used the Speedzone saddle pack in the OD12 and it fit perfectly with no modifications. Performance was better than with the battery hung on one side

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Old 09-15-2010, 05:25 PM   #34508
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Get the Speedzone 3.7v saddle pack. It will drop right in to the L3 and its an excellent battery. Placing a stick pack on one side and the electronics on the other works ok but you have to add way to much weight on the elctronics side to balance the car. I've used the Speedzone saddle pack in the OD12 and it fit perfectly with no modifications. Performance was better than with the battery hung on one side


If we could convince them to produce that pack with bullet connectors instead of Deans plugs it would be even better.
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Old 09-15-2010, 05:54 PM   #34509
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Get the Speedzone 3.7v saddle pack. It will drop right in to the L3 and its an excellent battery. Placing a stick pack on one side and the electronics on the other works ok but you have to add way to much weight on the elctronics side to balance the car. I've used the Speedzone saddle pack in the OD12 and it fit perfectly with no modifications. Performance was better than with the battery hung on one side

I ran this battery pack on my L3 at IIC last week; I was the only 1/12th scale there running a t-plate car. I think this pack along with the new ESC's with the booster built in can really give some life back into the older cars.
I thought it performed great. I came in 2nd in the D-main so while that isn't a ringing endorsement, driving wise I was very happy with handling of the car.
Yes, bullet connectors would be better, but I was really glad to have this kind of pack available.
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Old 09-15-2010, 06:20 PM   #34510
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Given the way the trend is going I think we will eventually see a fixed timing motor and rule. But until all the motors are timed the same it isn't something that should be enforced unless someone can figure out exactly what timing mark on each motor is the same.
Still wouldn't matter. How do you know 0 really is 0? Even if the manufacturer says it's 0 and the endbell is on the zero mark, that doesn't mean it really is 0. I know of no simple way to determine EXACTLY when the sensor trips at speed so there is no way to enforce this.
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Old 09-15-2010, 08:32 PM   #34511
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I would think that no boost would be enough control to be fair for club racing.
All motors have different specs of physical timing.

No need to bring on unnecessary restrictions that bring about other inequities in pace.
always the voice of reason, Dave.

although the 'idea' of a stock class with fixed motor specs might seem nice, it would seem that timing is not entirely fixed by geometry, if one speedo ran a little more sensitve than another, it might 'sense' the rotor position earlier and get a little lead.

the way i understand brushless motors today, it makes the most sense to let every motor maker set its optimum fixed timing for its can, rotor, sensor set, and go. otherwise there will need to be a whole net set of motor spec's that demand the sensor trigger sensitivity be equal to a standard.
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Old 09-15-2010, 08:42 PM   #34512
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
At IIC only ESC timing was limited. We were allowed to run any motor timing we needed to make the motor competitive.

Given the way the trend is going I think we will eventually see a fixed timing motor and rule. But until all the motors are timed the same it isn't something that should be enforced unless someone can figure out exactly what timing mark on each motor is the same.
Ha! i started pontificating and forgot to ask the question!

with the fixed ESCtiming class, what sort of motor timing and rollout did people end up with in the 17.5 1/12 class?
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Old 09-15-2010, 08:52 PM   #34513
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always the voice of reason, Dave.

although the 'idea' of a stock class with fixed motor specs might seem nice, it would seem that timing is not entirely fixed by geometry, if one speedo ran a little more sensitve than another, it might 'sense' the rotor position earlier and get a little lead.

the way i understand brushless motors today, it makes the most sense to let every motor maker set its optimum fixed timing for its can, rotor, sensor set, and go. otherwise there will need to be a whole net set of motor spec's that demand the sensor trigger sensitivity be equal to a standard.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Still wouldn't matter. How do you know 0 really is 0? Even if the manufacturer says it's 0 and the endbell is on the zero mark, that doesn't mean it really is 0. I know of no simple way to determine EXACTLY when the sensor trips at speed so there is no way to enforce this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I would think that no boost would be enough control to be fair for club racing.
All motors have different specs of physical timing.

No need to bring on unnecessary restrictions that bring about other inequities in pace.
Quote:
Originally Posted by avs View Post
at IIC they had a limited 17.5 class? did it restrict sensor position on the motor or only ESC settings?

it would seem that a 'locked' motor rule should rule out some motors with some fixed timing?
Quote:
Originally Posted by HB Moose View Post
Adding it to my schedule. But no motor timing in the limited 17.5 class? I'll need even bigger pinions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Since just about every 17.5 motor has a different timing value at the 0 mark you should rethink the timing on the motor part...
Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
At IIC only ESC timing was limited. We were allowed to run any motor timing we needed to make the motor competitive.

Given the way the trend is going I think we will eventually see a fixed timing motor and rule. But until all the motors are timed the same it isn't something that should be enforced unless someone can figure out exactly what timing mark on each motor is the same.
Hello guys,

Thanks for the advice.

I took out the motor restriction.

1/12 17.5 cirtix spec class is added, and made 17.5 open class.

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Old 09-15-2010, 09:22 PM   #34514
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Cool...good to know organizers listen when things make sense
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Old 09-15-2010, 09:23 PM   #34515
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Ha! i started pontificating and forgot to ask the question!

with the fixed ESCtiming class, what sort of motor timing and rollout did people end up with in the 17.5 1/12 class?
It varied a lot depending on the motor. With my Duo 2 motor I ran it timed 1 tick from max geared at 54/72 with a 42mm tire. With the LRP I had the 2 hole timing geared at 62/72 I think it was. Might have been 64.
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