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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-17-2003, 06:56 PM   #3436
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David, I will take that as a compliment. It doesn't make sense for me to be on here every couple minutes to comment on all the questions. I think it is better that others participate in that as well. But I do look at this thread a lot because 1/12 scale is the heritage of my racing experience in RC cars. I have been in the top 10 in the Triple Crown for stock, modified and masters, meaning that I have seen a lot of things. And this goes for almost 20 years racing 1/12 scale. I will not let any of you stray too far from the mean, no matter what CypressMidWest says. I like the enthusiasm all of you are demonstrating and hope you experience great success in 1/12 scale on-road.
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Old 07-17-2003, 07:22 PM   #3437
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So can you buy the full option Speedmerchant car, same as you can get a bloody knife?

And why is it that both CRC and Speedmerchant dont give a shit about retuning customers email????
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12th Scale - The premier class (if you can make runtime)
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Old 07-17-2003, 08:55 PM   #3438
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Thumbs up whaddyaneed from CRC?

Besercoe,

I have been to CRC in Rome NY, and raced on their carptet track. They also have come to Rochester to race some off road where I race in the winter. They are the nicest people. My email has always been answered right away. If you have something important to ask, call them. John usually answers the phone and knows a lot about racing and everything about their products. I have talked to Frank Jr and Mark. Some of the nicest poeple you will meet. Great racers too. Mark Smyka was there when I was, I met him too. Another nice racer.

Region 1 Roar races are there this year on the out door track. I will be there.

John checks the message boards every day. He might answer you there unless it is about an order.

Yes Davidl it was a compliment.

I love 1/12 pan cars. OK, ALL pan cars.

David Root
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Old 07-18-2003, 06:10 AM   #3439
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besercoe- the speemerhant only comes in one version, the crc comes in two, however besides all of the red stuff the main difference between the red and regular CRC is the lowered rear pods and also the race caliber tires it comes with.

However there is no need for any of those blue parts, very few speedmerchant drivers run anything except the stock AE bulkheads (even the ones with IRS deals that could get them), some run the blue dress kit, and some run the IRS 12 ball diff, however most of the guys run a pretty stock car. and getting the hop ups really dont do anything. i personally run lowered bulkheads because i can get a little extra life out of my tires (Although the handling isnt as great, since the tire isnt meant to work with that little foam), and i run a 12 ball diff because i dont have to rebuild my diff as much. and yes i have the blue dress kit, but that was just because money was burning a hole in my pocket (and btw i am not a merchant "team driva")

and yes for some reason it can be tough to get ahold of speedmerchant, however thats why u have this forum.
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Old 07-18-2003, 06:23 AM   #3440
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Kit Confusion???

Although, I'm not particularly excited by the red color, the "Bloody Knife" seems to be the better value. When I factor in the price of a set of tires $20/pair (purple/grays) it probably makes more sense to get this kit.

Question:

- does the bloody knife come with threaded front axles?

- can the old style front end be fitted to the bloody knife chassis without any modifications?
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Old 07-18-2003, 08:32 AM   #3441
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Default Hello!!!

Just so excited to break the news that 1/12 is getting big here in P.I. (philippines) They have modified the biggest indoor asphalt to replaced the bariers with cement curbs. And the number of people who are into 1/12 is getting bigger!

My question to those who are running indoor asphalt is, what foam compounds can i use. They use sorex 28-30 at the track.

There will be an inaugural race in august just want to be prepared!

Peace to all and Let's Go 1/12!!!!!
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Old 07-18-2003, 08:36 AM   #3442
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Default Re: Hello!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
Just so excited to break the news that 1/12 is getting big here in P.I. (philippines) They have modified the biggest indoor asphalt to replaced the bariers with cement curbs. And the number of people who are into 1/12 is getting bigger!

My question to those who are running indoor asphalt is, what foam compounds can i use. They use sorex 28-30 at the track.

There will be an inaugural race in august just want to be prepared!

Peace to all and Let's Go 1/12!!!!!
Jaco pink rears and purple fronts.
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Old 07-18-2003, 08:39 AM   #3443
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bobby Z
Mike D

Thanks for the quick response. I would love to see some pics when ever you have time to get them on this forum or send them direct if that is easier. I mainly run carpet but have considered running some asphalt before the summer is over.

Here is my E-mail address

bob.zahn@nucomm.net

Thanks also for the explanation of pricing on their website. I suspected as much but wondered if the lower price I have heard about was true. I will contact speedtechrc and inquire.

Thanks again

Bob Zahn

P.S. Great job at the Nats!! The t-plate cars can still hold their own!
Total car:
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Old 07-18-2003, 08:41 AM   #3444
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IRS 12th Scale Front End:
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Old 07-18-2003, 08:42 AM   #3445
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IRS 12th Scale Rear End:
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Old 07-18-2003, 08:44 AM   #3446
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Old 07-18-2003, 08:45 AM   #3447
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IRS 12th Scale Adjustable Battery holders:
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Old 07-18-2003, 08:47 AM   #3448
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IRS 12th Scale Damper Tube:

BTW - I didn't run the damper tube spring setup at the nats, but you can see where the mount on the tubes near the top plate.
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Old 07-18-2003, 09:02 AM   #3449
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Nice looking car!!! clean and neat!!!

One question sir:
I noticed that the placement of your servo is flat and you did not utilize any servo mounts. I am using the same placement of servo except, its a standard servo. Is there any difference in performance? just want to ask cause the guys here said that I should change it? Since you are a Pro- your comments will be highly appreciated-- Thanks!! Lem
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Old 07-18-2003, 09:24 AM   #3450
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Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
Nice looking car!!! clean and neat!!!

One question sir:
I noticed that the placement of your servo is flat and you did not utilize any servo mounts. I am using the same placement of servo except, its a standard servo. Is there any difference in performance? just want to ask cause the guys here said that I should change it? Since you are a Pro- your comments will be highly appreciated-- Thanks!! Lem
Thanks, I've been very happy with the car. There are a few reasons I run the servo flat on the chassis:
1 - It keeps the weight and overall center of gravity as low as possible.
2 - The car is a little lighter not running servo mounts (It is very hard to get the car near the minimum weight limit with GP3300's).
3 - The ears on the servo case are slotted so I can move the servo forward and back to adjust the amount of weight on the front wheels. I actually have two sets of holes in the chassis too so I can adjust the servo forward and back about 3/8".
4 - It's much easier to adjust ackerman by changing the servo horn ball studs sizes. When the servo is mounted on an angle, it is way too complex to understand the ackerman changes.
5 - The flat setup also works well with the mid-size kimbrough servo saver. It is much stronger then the small grey or red mini size.
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