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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-12-2010, 03:44 AM   #34471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyK View Post
Thanks for this post. It had answered a couple of questions I was thinking about. This will be the first time I will be running a 12 scale on a track and a little nervous abut the speeds these can run.
I wouldn't worru about the speed too much. A decent setup on a 12th can be easy to drive like a 17.5 tc.
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Old 09-12-2010, 04:21 AM   #34472
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Originally Posted by TonyK View Post
Thanks for this post. It had answered a couple of questions I was thinking about. This will be the first time I will be running a 12 scale on a track and a little nervous abut the speeds these can run.
Tony,

You could also use a 17.5, you won't have the huge horsepower down a straight but you will be able to keep up in the twisty sections of the track until you get used to racing/tuning your car and then step up to a lower wind motor,cheers.

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Old 09-12-2010, 08:36 AM   #34473
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What I thought about doing is running a 21.5 in the car. I really would like to learn setup before I start bringing in speed.

Quick question I am going to mount my electronics in my car. Is there anyway besides scales to make sure the car is balanced when mounting the electronics?
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Old 09-12-2010, 09:27 AM   #34474
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You could drive a couple of small holes, one at the front and one at the back, and balance it with pins. Some regular bulletin board push pins with a pivot ball or the like over the pin will give you a rough idea of how balanced you are.
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Old 09-12-2010, 09:41 AM   #34475
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What I thought about doing is running a 21.5 in the car. I really would like to learn setup before I start bringing in speed.
That's pretty smart and not something I usually hear. Usually it's, "What's the fastest motor I can use in this?" or something to that nature.

That said, 17.5 is very easy to drive in 1/12th and is a great place to start for someone just beginning. If there is a 17.5 class where you race, I would run that. If you want to be faster than everyone else, just don't hit anything.
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Old 09-12-2010, 11:04 AM   #34476
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I've always told myself no sense in having the biggest and baddest motor or ESC if I can't control it. I have a spare 21.5 but think I will look into a 17.5.
The track I race at has a 13.5 class but don't think they will have a problem if I run a 17.5 with them.





Quote:
Originally Posted by EVILGRAFX View Post
That's pretty smart and not something I usually hear. Usually it's, "What's the fastest motor I can use in this?" or something to that nature.

That said, 17.5 is very easy to drive in 1/12th and is a great place to start for someone just beginning. If there is a 17.5 class where you race, I would run that. If you want to be faster than everyone else, just don't hit anything.
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Old 09-12-2010, 11:26 AM   #34477
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The only problem with running a slower motor to learn the set-up is that often you need a different set-up for a faster motor. I can often tell what class a driver runs by what tires he says he is using. The tires that are fast for 17.5 often don't have enough grip for a 13.5 or 10.5.

I would suggest getting a 13.5 so you will have it but just go conservative on the esc set-up and gearing. This will take a lot of the grunt away and allow you to get the hang of it. Then when you feel you are ready for more power, just start adding timing and gear.
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Old 09-12-2010, 11:32 AM   #34478
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Alternately, you can just turn your throttle endpoint down to limit "full throttle". Several local racers have done this with good results. Turn up the throttle as your skills improve.
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Old 09-12-2010, 01:21 PM   #34479
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Alternately, you can just turn your throttle endpoint down to limit "full throttle". Several local racers have done this with good results. Turn up the throttle as your skills improve.
I agree that is what I do when I start in a new class or faster motor.
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Old 09-12-2010, 01:49 PM   #34480
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I agree with what Sean is saying, which is why I said, "if there is a 17.5 class, I would run that".

If 13.5 is the slowest class they run, go with the 13.5 and adjust either your esc current limiter or adjust your radios high point. That way you can run the faster motor with less power and work your way up to more power the better you get.

Thanks guys.
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:29 PM   #34481
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I'd suggest starting with a car that is similar (or at least common) to what others at your club will be racing with. It will make it easier to get help or flesh out setup problems that you might run into. 12th scale can be finicky, sometimes something really small will make a big difference.

CRC GenXL and Associated 12R5 are pretty common and definitely competative. BMI with the old school front end is pretty straight forward for someone to help you with. Speedmerchant with the old front end is again straight forward. The newer front ends might be harder to help you with until people have them figured out a bit better.

Tekin RS speed control is common and pretty well sorted out (probably go with the RS / Tekin motor combo that is correct for the class that you'd be running, i.e. 17.5 or 13.5). I'm going with the new Novak Kinetic 1S and Ballistic combo but it isn't as well sorted out yet since the Kinetics are pretty new. The AE Black Diamond is interesting. It is really spendy and isn't computer programmable (has to be sent to the factory for firmware upgrades), but it's finite settings (have a handful of "profiles" for the various functions) might be, in a way, easier to setup and it is unquestionably fast. I'm not necessarily suggesting it, but it might be worth putting in your research queue.

Servo, Futaba 9650 or JR 3650 are the tops of my lists.

Thunderpower packs are well thought of 5000+MAh 50c (although I went with a budget pack from Protek 5000MAH 40c for less $ as I don't think I'll notice or need the 50c rate running 17.5). SMC and others make great packs too, probably won't go wrong if you just do a little research before buying. These are 1S LiPo hard case, but you probably already get that.

Depending on class, you'll want pinion / spurs capable of 60-100mm rollout. Plan to get a bunch of pinions, probably from about 40-60 tooth and a couple spurs 76,80,84 (car will probably come with 88). If you can do some research on your motor / class (ESC rules, sportsman or open) / track size, you can probably slim those down to maybe 2 spurs and a dozen pinions...
So I ended up ordering the CRC Gen XL, and I'll be racing with a 13.5 motor. Just one more stupid question...what pitch gears will I need?
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:45 PM   #34482
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64 pitch is what you're after. Welcome to 12th scale
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:56 PM   #34483
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Why thank you, I'm rather excited.
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Old 09-12-2010, 03:38 PM   #34484
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Thanks guys, I already have a 13.5 in the car I will just run that and adjust the the electronics till I feel comfortable.

I'm just thinking out loud here but, by adjusting the trims is the car going to see less power and would I be running a different tire than the people running the 13.5 class?
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Old 09-12-2010, 04:38 PM   #34485
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Am I really gonna need a pinion gear that's around 40 teeth? That seems a bit...crazy.
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