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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-04-2010, 01:22 PM   #34426
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Parallel balance themselves automatically. If you hook two packs up in parallel, one half charged and the other almost dead and charge them together, they will balance out on their own.
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Old 09-04-2010, 01:36 PM   #34427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Parallel balance themselves automatically. If you hook two packs up in parallel, one half charged and the other almost dead and charge them together, they will balance out on their own.
you are right that parallel wired cells are balanced, permanently sort of.

however, hooking up 2 cells with very dissimiliar charge conditions might be a bad idea. the charged cell may discharge at a very high rate and exceed the safe charge rate of the discharged cell.

i suspect that great care should be given when wiring up parallel cells, that they are balanced individually or in series first before tieing them together in parallel.
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Old 09-04-2010, 02:02 PM   #34428
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@ wingracer
Yes basically thatīs true, but this is not balancing but some sort of equalizing what isnīt the same in this case. Usually balancing means currents of about 200-500mA (dependent on balancer) between one cell and the balancing device, also this balancing is controlled.
If there are larger differences between paralled cells (because of age or bad match) this will force higher currents between the cells not just those mA, also these high currents are not limited and are just dependend from the voltagedifference between the cells. Overall this could result in high temperature and damage of cells. At least that will reduce the output voltage of the batterypack. This has nothing to do with Lipo but with all batteries with paralled cells.

Usually most current quality Lipo are using 2 cells paralled, what isnīt a problem. But some older or cheap Lipo are using 4 cells paralled and thatīs what I wouldnīt want buying.

Just see AVS was faster on this.
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Old 09-04-2010, 02:13 PM   #34429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avs View Post
you are right that parallel wired cells are balanced, permanently sort of.

however, hooking up 2 cells with very dissimiliar charge conditions might be a bad idea. the charged cell may discharge at a very high rate and exceed the safe charge rate of the discharged cell.

i suspect that great care should be given when wiring up parallel cells, that they are balanced individually or in series first before tieing them together in parallel.
I would agree except MaxAmps says this is not the case. They just came out with individual cells that you can wire any way you want to make any sort of pack you want and as long as they are charged in parallel and in reasonably good condition, charge differences don't matter at all.

Now, feel free to take what they say with a grain of salt but they have done far more testing on this than I have so I'm inclined to believe them.

And yes, the only way to "balance" them in the normal, series way would be to disconnect the cells.
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Old 09-04-2010, 02:25 PM   #34430
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Here is a quote from Jason of MaxAmps:

"Balancing is not an issue. Two cells one fully charged one discharged put together in parallel take less than 5 minutes to equal out. We even tested this on the charger as well one fully charged one empty put on the charger real fast and charged away with no issues. Now mix in an old cell with new cells and yes they will have a slight discharge rate difference but with most of us these days running LVC's at 3.4 to 3.5 volts per cell it's not an issue. Trust me guys we did our home work. This isn't something we just tossed together and went with. We have been testing and playing with these for a while now. The reason for the Slash give away was because we used one for the test bed. It works and it works very well.

Jason"
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Old 09-04-2010, 02:26 PM   #34431
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Our local battery supplier says that you dont really need to balance cells these days, but ive had a pack which i'm pretty confident had been sitting on the shelf for a while where one cell had charge the other way low.

Also ive seen a fair few 12th scale packs go soft. Dont know if it was a bad batch or something though or whether the lipos are getting pushed hard in the the 12ths.

Come to think about it, are the normal 12th scale packs 2p anyway?

BTW LVC of 3.4 - 3.5 to me does nothing in a 12th scale. Infact i dont think it even cuts out at 3V on the tekin?
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Old 09-04-2010, 02:33 PM   #34432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
Our local battery supplier says that you dont really need to balance cells these days, but ive had a pack which i'm pretty confident had been sitting on the shelf for a while where one cell had charge the other way low. If it's sitting on the shelf and the cells are connected in parallel, they will be even in terms of charge amount. One cell could still go soft while the other stays pretty good though.

Also ive seen a fair few 12th scale packs go soft. Dont know if it was a bad batch or something though or whether the lipos are getting pushed hard in the the 12ths. 10.5 or hotter and you ARE pushing them VERY hard. Also, some packs seem to be much more prone to going soft than others. One popular brand in particular is terrible for puffing and going soft.

Come to think about it, are the normal 12th scale packs 2p anyway? yes, I believe so

BTW LVC of 3.4 - 3.5 to me does nothing in a 12th scale. Infact i dont think it even cuts out at 3V on the tekin? Just quoting what he wrote.
Answers in red.
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Old 09-04-2010, 03:08 PM   #34433
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Yeah 10.5 / mod. Havent been racing much lately but it seems the locals are now dumping with 10.5s **EEK**

The ones which i have mainly seen going funny are an old batch of Thunder Power 5000s.

So far my IB 5000s have seemed ok.
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Old 09-04-2010, 04:33 PM   #34434
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Are the Protek 5000's holding up OK?
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Old 09-04-2010, 04:37 PM   #34435
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Question for you pros on here. What are your thoughts about ceramic bearings in the axle and front wheels? Any noticeable advantages in performance? I heard some where that they can be brittle. Is that true. Any help is much appreciated!!
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Old 09-04-2010, 05:08 PM   #34436
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I found acer ceramics were good in the ride height adjusters in the rear. I tried serpent ones (which had metal shields) and they got just as gritty as normal bearings and i couldnt clean them out.

In the front i have acer ceramics as well but the standard metal shielded bearings seem to last pretty well in the front.
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Old 09-04-2010, 05:23 PM   #34437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
I found acer ceramics were good in the ride height adjusters in the rear. I tried serpent ones (which had metal shields) and they got just as gritty as normal bearings and i couldnt clean them out.

In the front i have acer ceramics as well but the standard metal shielded bearings seem to last pretty well in the front.
Thanks, Could you give a quick crash course on how you clean them out? May sound like a dumb question but I am new to all of this.
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Old 09-04-2010, 05:30 PM   #34438
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I soak mine in the same stuff i use to clean my motor. I let it soak in it for fifteen minutes all while sitting in a cup that i have made vibrate with an old aquarium pump. this does a great job of cleaning any bearings.
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Old 09-04-2010, 05:54 PM   #34439
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Yeah i was told to use engine degreaser and i got one of those little vibrating cleaners but i hate it because it throws liquid out as it vibrates. You are meant to remove the shileds from the bearings (which is a real pain). Hard to explain without pictures but there is usually a litle sliver of metal running on the outside edge of the shielding which you can get a pin or exacto knife to flick out.

Also you have to be carefull with some rubber shields not to bend the shield or when you put the shield back in there can be a bit of friction.

But I like those bearing cleaners where you put the bearing inside the two halves and flush it with motor spray. And they say on the instructions not to remove the shields.

I find that works pretty good, but if you leave it too long and grit gets inside the bearing the balls are going to get dented and then they wont be smooth anyway.

I like the ACER synthetic bearing lube stuff too (SIN), dont know if its really any good though **SHRUG**
Its pretty thin, so i think when dirt gets inside the bearing it doesnt cake on like it would with a thicker grease which some bearings have inside.
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Old 09-04-2010, 07:41 PM   #34440
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Any idea where I can pick up one of those bearing cleaners that you flush with motor spray? I just picked up some boca ceramics and would like to keep them nice as long as possible. Thanks again for the help!
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