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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-02-2010, 06:37 AM   #34411
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http://www.fantomracing.com/proddeta...?prod=FAN27705

this would be my suggestion
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:05 AM   #34412
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
That would be my preference but I have yet to find a lipo that fits or isn't stupid expensive like the MM rx lipo.
i paid $11
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:10 AM   #34413
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Perfect! Maybe I can get one of them 70t pinions to go with a 72t spur for my 17.5 no timing 1/12th. Seriously!

You will find the above wont fit motor wont move far enough. Max I have found on my car is 72 spur 62 pinion.
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:51 AM   #34414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drsmooth View Post
These tires look like the GQ tires that have vanished.
emailed GQ and there tyres/foams are still available but I didn't ask where from
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:23 AM   #34415
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
Maybe. I just think it really places more emphasis on having a "GOOD" motor. If you get a 17.5 that's not quite perfect, there's not alot you can do to get more out of it. At least with the speedo adjustments you could tailor the power delivery to suit the motor's powerband. I have a few 17.5 motors, and they require different speedo set-ups to achieve the same lap times. Just my experience........
Good point...and I thought brushless was going to make life for racing so much more consistent and easier for the racers.

Just scrap 17.5 all together!!!
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Old 09-03-2010, 09:54 PM   #34416
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That's the biggest pinion I've ever seen.
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Old 09-03-2010, 10:01 PM   #34417
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Originally Posted by dynamic_e View Post


That's the biggest pinion I've ever seen.
Man im glad we mod run mod down under Thats plain ridiculous!
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Old 09-04-2010, 06:27 AM   #34418
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Quick question about weight distribution theory: I'm going to be trying out 1s with an L4 (T-bar) which means the battery on one side and all the electronics on the other. The Protek 5000mAh that I'll be using weighs ~153g and my electronics (including 2/3's of the servo weight) comes in around 120g including an estimated 40g for the ESC and battery wires (I'll be switching out the Deans connector on the battery for a couple of bullets Shoe-Goo'd to the case). My question: would I be able to balance out the battery weight by mounting the electronics further out towards the edge of the chassis rather than adding weight? Should I even worry about the 30g difference? Thanks in advance!!!!
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Old 09-04-2010, 07:31 AM   #34419
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Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
Quick question about weight distribution theory: I'm going to be trying out 1s with an L4 (T-bar) which means the battery on one side and all the electronics on the other. The Protek 5000mAh that I'll be using weighs ~153g and my electronics (including 2/3's of the servo weight) comes in around 120g including an estimated 40g for the ESC and battery wires (I'll be switching out the Deans connector on the battery for a couple of bullets Shoe-Goo'd to the case). My question: would I be able to balance out the battery weight by mounting the electronics further out towards the edge of the chassis rather than adding weight? Should I even worry about the 30g difference? Thanks in advance!!!!
Yes. Try to get it as even as possible. It would be a good idea to put the ESC as far outwards on the chassis as possible and the battery as far in as possible.
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Old 09-04-2010, 07:51 AM   #34420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
Quick question about weight distribution theory: I'm going to be trying out 1s with an L4 (T-bar) which means the battery on one side and all the electronics on the other. The Protek 5000mAh that I'll be using weighs ~153g and my electronics (including 2/3's of the servo weight) comes in around 120g including an estimated 40g for the ESC and battery wires (I'll be switching out the Deans connector on the battery for a couple of bullets Shoe-Goo'd to the case). My question: would I be able to balance out the battery weight by mounting the electronics further out towards the edge of the chassis rather than adding weight? Should I even worry about the 30g difference? Thanks in advance!!!!
There is another option if you don't plan to upgrade the L4 anytime soon ?

The first ever 1 Cell Saddle Lipo Pack!
ROAR Approved
Mah: 5200
Voltage: 3.7v
Rated: 50C
Maximum Charge Rate: 5C


https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...=sz5200prosd1s
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Old 09-04-2010, 08:27 AM   #34421
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I recommend that saddle pack, I have one. It was night and day of a difference from a pack on one side to saddle again. The action from the t-bar was back and the car transitioned through turns better. No need to add weight to balance the kit.
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Old 09-04-2010, 08:29 AM   #34422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dynamic_e View Post
That's the biggest pinion I've ever seen.
Insane! What was the rollout??
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Old 09-04-2010, 08:43 AM   #34423
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That's definitely the permanent option however I got the Protek for $30 from Amain and since I'm not sure if I'll stay with the L4, this was the most economical option for the time being. I'll tinker with cantilevering the electronics and see how close that gets me. Thanks guys!
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Old 09-04-2010, 12:56 PM   #34424
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Just wondering looks like that saddle pack has no balancing option?

I assume two cells in parallel should still be balanced on the rare occasion or on the first use?

Actually just thinking about it, maybe it aint possible to balance the cells without disconnecting the two.
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Old 09-04-2010, 01:13 PM   #34425
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You just could balance those packs where the cells are connected in serial. Paralled cells canīt be balanced.
But itīs not the case just for this saddlepack 1S Lipo above. There are a lot of 2S Lipo available what have 2, 3 or even 4 cells paralled also. I think 2 cells paralled isnīt a big problem but Iīm staying away from packs with 3 or even 4 paralled.
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