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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-29-2010, 10:08 AM   #34366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
Is anyone using one of the hobbywing ESC's in 12th scale on 1s? I absolutely don't need an ESC with all the timing adjustments. I'm also on a budget. Any opinions are greatly appreciated, especially if I'm barking up the wrong tree looking at these ESC's. Thanks!
I'm using the Ezrun 25 amp esc with the Ezrun 9t 380 based motor & a 1300 25c 2 cell lipo in my 12R5. My friend is using the Ezrun 35 amp esc witha 13.5 motor he got from Hobbyking & a 2 cell lipo. We race on asphalt & they're just enough to be easy to drive & fast. I was turning faster lap times than the mod touring car at the last race.
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:47 AM   #34367
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Thanks guys
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Old 08-29-2010, 03:13 PM   #34368
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Do you have any pics of your car?




Quote:
Originally Posted by drsmooth View Post
I'm using the Ezrun 25 amp esc with the Ezrun 9t 380 based motor & a 1300 25c 2 cell lipo in my 12R5. My friend is using the Ezrun 35 amp esc witha 13.5 motor he got from Hobbyking & a 2 cell lipo. We race on asphalt & they're just enough to be easy to drive & fast. I was turning faster lap times than the mod touring car at the last race.
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Old 08-29-2010, 03:36 PM   #34369
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Here are some pics of my 12R5.
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-12r5.jpg   1/12 forum-12r5-top.jpg   1/12 forum-rc12r5.jpg  
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Old 08-29-2010, 07:05 PM   #34370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIITA View Post
Anyone using the new tekin v208 with 3.7v lipo? Just wondering how it compares to 203? anyone tested lap times?
Yeah, tried it today. Testing for IIC. Tekin RS, 17.5 NO ADVANCE TIMING class. Ran on a 100' by 48' track. Rollout 103 (72 spur, 55 pinion, 43mm rears). 55 wasn't enough. Came off the track after 7 minutes at 112 degrees. Fastest lap 11.06. Just ordered 56, 57 and 58 pinions. PRS was out of stock on 59 and 60 or I would have bought them too.
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Old 08-30-2010, 11:01 AM   #34371
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Default 12R5 speed passion GT 2.0 setup

Currently running on a large open carpet track (28 X 14 M).
Using Speed Passion GT 2.0 with Speed Passion 10.5 R motor.
Is Lipo and 53.3 MMPR rollout.

I appear to loose out to the Tekins on the straight and I am not sure of the Supercharger settings !!!
Running the 528 stock software set at :-

4 = 8
9 = 7
12 = 6
13 = 4
14 = 3
15 = 4.

Motor temp is 110f
Any info on which way to go??
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Old 08-30-2010, 02:00 PM   #34372
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Originally Posted by PDX-Spike View Post
Yeah, tried it today. Testing for IIC. Tekin RS, 17.5 NO ADVANCE TIMING class. Ran on a 100' by 48' track. Rollout 103 (72 spur, 55 pinion, 43mm rears). 55 wasn't enough. Came off the track after 7 minutes at 112 degrees. Fastest lap 11.06. Just ordered 56, 57 and 58 pinions. PRS was out of stock on 59 and 60 or I would have bought them too.
it sounds like you have 0 timing on the motor can. is there a spec motor rule? otherwise doesnt that make different brands' definition of 0 too arbitrary?

it would seem they need to lock down the motor spec or let motor timing be user adjustable? sorry if this has been beat to death already, but i had thought the motor can timing would be an option/
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Old 08-30-2010, 02:34 PM   #34373
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Originally Posted by PDX-Spike View Post
Yeah, tried it today. Testing for IIC. Tekin RS, 17.5 NO ADVANCE TIMING class. Ran on a 100' by 48' track. Rollout 103 (72 spur, 55 pinion, 43mm rears). 55 wasn't enough. Came off the track after 7 minutes at 112 degrees. Fastest lap 11.06. Just ordered 56, 57 and 58 pinions. PRS was out of stock on 59 and 60 or I would have bought them too.
Wow...I'm hoping they have pinions that high at the shop. I didn't expect to need any that big and don't have time to order some before leaving for the IIC.
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Old 08-30-2010, 03:40 PM   #34374
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Default pinions

I had the same problem in the Uk, 17.5 is not a class we run so had to tool up with spurs and pinions.
72 and 74 spurs are not easy to buy.Anything smaller wont fit. Also pinons 58 60 and 62 are like hens teeth.

The largest cobination i can fit on my car is 72 spur 62 pinion 64dp. Any thing larger and the motor wont fit.
43.5 tyres 72 spur and 58 pinion is rollout of 110mm even that isnt enough on limited profile. Drove the car full throttle and steered round. Motor came off at 32c.

Pinions and spurs were available from stormer hobbies. HTH
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Old 08-30-2010, 03:44 PM   #34375
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Wow...I'm hoping they have pinions that high at the shop. I didn't expect to need any that big and don't have time to order some before leaving for the IIC.
I suppose you could run the tires out of the box. That might help

PRS may have a few left in the 50's. Better get there quick, tho...
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Old 08-30-2010, 03:52 PM   #34376
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Sounds about right when I was at the IIC 2 years ago and they had the locked 0 timing speed passion 17.5 motors running lrp sphere we were in the 105mm range but I know that motor timing is going to be key this time as yes all the manufactures have different versions of 0 atleast with novak you know it goes to 45 at full. Not sure where the duo2 is but at a certain point on the dyno it loses power for the return on timing about the 3rd tick from the end.

my 64 pitch pinion rack starts at 19 and goes to 60
another thing if you don't run them 41.5mm you don't have the tourqe to get the tires going so using bigger tires is out of the question.

Speaking of anybody got a RO for a 7.5 lrp and what timing notch to use with a BD on what profile? Just looking for some place not to blow it up.
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Old 08-30-2010, 04:01 PM   #34377
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I suppose you could run the tires out of the box. That might help

PRS may have a few left in the 50's. Better get there quick, tho...
They wouldn't get here in time. Besides they never respond to e-mail. As much as I like their gears their customer service leaves something to be desired.
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Old 08-30-2010, 04:02 PM   #34378
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another place to check is www.lefthander-rc.com oval guys do big gears
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Old 08-30-2010, 04:25 PM   #34379
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No matter where I order from...unless it is local they aren't going to get to Hawaii in time for me to bring them with me.
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Old 08-30-2010, 04:34 PM   #34380
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Default orders

Get them posted to Vegas.
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