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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!


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Old 07-16-2003, 02:59 PM   #3421
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Anyone know why the CRC car sweeps the damper tubes back and the Spd. Merchant sweeps them forward? How does this affect the movement of the pod?

Also, does the old skool front end have any camber or castor built in?

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Old 07-17-2003, 02:36 AM   #3422
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I just bought a RC12L3, and would like to have some opinions about outdoor setups for Large 1/8 and 1/5 permanent IC track.

For tires I've some sets of front Jaco Pink, and rears Jaco white, gray and pink.

For now I will be using stock motors (Reedy Rage type R), and would like to have some feedback from you about roll out/ gear ratio to start with. (I was thinking about 4.0 for gear ratio with new tires, no trimming)

I'm new to 1/12, and we don't have any kind of competition in this class, soo I'm kind of "alone".
I race on a regular bases with a Xray EVO2 in modified (here in Portugal we have a 12T limit), but my experience with 1/12 is poor.

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Old 07-17-2003, 04:10 AM   #3423
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I don't think the tubes forward or back make much of a difference. Old Skool front end should be no (0) caster and camber, that is the beauty of it. No adjustments. I have some 2* caster shimms for one, so they were made. Camber is adjusted by a business card or the cards from parts packages under one side where the lower arms mount to the chasis.


Try purple in the front, and Pink in the rear. I would start with a rollout of 40 mm and gear up from there. You are close with the 4.0 to 1.

Have Fun
David Root
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Old 07-17-2003, 04:25 AM   #3424
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Thanks David ! I'will try that ..
And I was wrong, in fact I've some sets of purple fronts, not pinks.

Any more ideas/setups/advices for 1/12 outdoor ?

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Old 07-17-2003, 04:51 AM   #3425
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Guys - the Associated "Old Skool" front suspension has 1 degree castor and -2 degrees camber. Please consider this when making adjustments with shims.

The other question was about the damper tubes. The Carpet Knife has the center of the damper lead the the outside edges. That means as the car goes over bumps and the suspension flows through its travel, the rod is pulled out of the tube. That means there is a small decrease in dampening. It is the opposite for the Speedmerchant. Speedmerchants position is you will always have at least a certain amount of dampening as the suspension cycles through its travel.
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Old 07-17-2003, 08:09 AM   #3426
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hi there...
would like to post some newbie question if u all dont mind..
just would like to know which of the 1/12 car is better.
brands between team associated, crc, yokomo or kawada.
which one would you all suggest me to get..
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Old 07-17-2003, 08:29 AM   #3427
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CRC or speedmerchant....
G's RC Raceway- Best off-road track on the east coast...period!!!

Pitman for Team Dallas Austin...
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Old 07-17-2003, 08:39 AM   #3428
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Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR
CRC or speedmerchant....
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
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Old 07-17-2003, 09:24 AM   #3429
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Originally posted by davidl
Guys - the Associated "Old Skool" front suspension has 1 degree castor and -2 degrees camber. Please consider this when making adjustments with shims.
Davidl, are you sure? I have since called assoc. and I spoke to someone named Bob and he said that there isn't any camber or castor built in, and that the arms are to point backward not forward when mounted on the chassis.

But, I agree with you, it does seem like the arms are made with some camber and castor when checked with calipers they don't measure the same at the front and back of the mounts, about 1/2mm difference.

AE 12R5.2 (x2) - TC7 - M05 - M05V2R

People who don't have to wait for the latest item, should not tell those that do, that "It's worth the wait"
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Old 07-17-2003, 11:42 AM   #3430
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Eric - I have measured them with the RaceTech castor/camber gauge.
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Old 07-17-2003, 11:57 AM   #3431
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Kit Confusion???

Since some of you guys have already bought the Carpet Knife and SpeedMerhcant cars, maybe you can help me...

I've been to both the CRC and SpeedMerchant web sites, yet I'm still confused what's included in the standard kits??? On the CRC site, it's pretty clear what you get when you purchase a "Bloody Knife", but if you're looking for the "basic" kit "What do you get?". If the information is on the web site, I apologize, because I completely missed it!

On the SpeedMerchant site, I see a kit that has lots of anodized blue parts, and then there's a thumbnail image of a chassis that has a plastic bulkhead and an aluminum bulk head, but no other aluminum parts???

On the CRC site one photo shows plastic damper tubes, another photo shows aluminum damper tubes. One photo shows blue one piece "O" ring holders, another photo shows silver ones. The CRC kit looks as though it comes with aluminum bulk heads on both sides???

Can someone itemize what's actually included in these kits?

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Old 07-17-2003, 12:58 PM   #3432
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yeah i have this question in mind unanswered too
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Old 07-17-2003, 01:04 PM   #3433
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The Speemerchant kit doesn't come with the blue stuff. That is the optional dress kit stuff. It comes with a plastic and a silver rear bulkhead. So it should be the thumbnail you were talking about.

The CRC standard kit has the same plastic and silver bulkheads also. I think, but I'm not sure I'd have to look at my buddy's to see.
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Old 07-17-2003, 02:03 PM   #3434
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The rear bulkheads on both the Speedmerchant and standard Carpet Knife are regular AE parts.
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Old 07-17-2003, 02:14 PM   #3435
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Default CRC kinfe

I bought the standard knife, 3.1. It comes with aluminum tubes with plastic inserts. Green tires front and back, metal screws instead of aluminum,

Like OD said, standard aluminum AE rear motor mount and plastic Left rear bulk head. Everything else is the same as the bloody red version except the color and maybe stock spring for the center shock which doesn't matter cause you NEED the spring kits. I HATE aluminum screws.


Thanks for correcting me, you always seem to show up when needed in thie forum and others.

David Root
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