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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-22-2010, 11:23 PM   #34321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dread Pirate View Post
Had to search way back to 2008 for this one!
Dusting off the 12L3 and having trouble getting the front up to 3mm.
Are the IRS arms being discussed here part #4221 ? The IRS site and sites selling them don't mention that these are lower to the chassis.

Thanks.
The cut-down AE arms are being made by BMI Racing (contact details on their website) and are still the best option to get the ride-height you want HTH
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Old 08-23-2010, 01:33 AM   #34322
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The cut-down AE arms are being made by BMI Racing (contact details on their website) and are still the best option to get the ride-height you want HTH
bmi 1/12 front arm uses the irs part, same with the diff, rear bearing holders and other front end parts.
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Old 08-23-2010, 01:40 AM   #34323
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I have 203 if anyone wants a copy drop me a pm with email address. I personally don't think it's better and have gone back to 208. If your looking for 203 though I found the download link in my email from team tekin when I first registered the rs.
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Old 08-23-2010, 04:09 AM   #34324
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Originally Posted by micrors4guy View Post
so it seems that 203 is better for the 12th. I am running 17.5. Does anyone have some good settings and rollout for a track that is 70x35?
Not knowing if that is feet or meters makes it hard but I have been playing with a 17.5 recently. I have the tallest gearing I can fit with my spur of 69/34 which gives me a rollout of 72.7mm. I would have prefered to go higher up to around 75mm at the very least. This is on a BDv2 on profile 5 so I imagine a Tekin would be lower.
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Old 08-23-2010, 04:25 AM   #34325
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bmi 1/12 front arm uses the irs part, same with the diff, rear bearing holders and other front end parts.
Yes BMI is using the IRS lower arms on the 1/12th car but they also have the cut-down AE arms in their product range.
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Old 08-23-2010, 04:28 AM   #34326
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except for the new in-house BMI front suspension which does not use standard lower arms
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Old 08-23-2010, 06:50 PM   #34327
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Not knowing if that is feet or meters makes it hard but I have been playing with a 17.5 recently. I have the tallest gearing I can fit with my spur of 69/34 which gives me a rollout of 72.7mm. I would have prefered to go higher up to around 75mm at the very least. This is on a BDv2 on profile 5 so I imagine a Tekin would be lower.
sorry its 70x35 feet.
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Old 08-23-2010, 07:02 PM   #34328
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Have noticed that people run there front left wheel stright and the right with slight degree toe out??

Can anyone shed any light onto the reason for this?
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Old 08-23-2010, 07:17 PM   #34329
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Sounds like they are trimming the steering to compensate for an imbalance in the car's setup...either the chassis isn't balanced well or maybe the diff isn't built well.
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Old 08-23-2010, 07:26 PM   #34330
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Sounds like they are trimming the steering to compensate for an imbalance in the car's setup...either the chassis isn't balanced well or maybe the diff isn't built well.
Noticed this in pictures from the world 12th.. most pictures show this toe out setup

Was thinking it was to ether help quicker setup or turn better one side than the other?
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Old 08-23-2010, 07:29 PM   #34331
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I guess it could be...but then it wouldn't go straight on the straights. I haven't seen the pics but I would guess those were taken when the car was in the pits sitting on the table? If so someone could have just bumped the servo or something.
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Old 08-23-2010, 11:16 PM   #34332
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The only time you see unbalances setups.like this is.in oval cars. It must just be how it was resting when the photo was taken.
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Old 08-23-2010, 11:45 PM   #34333
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Originally Posted by Me_MrTyson View Post
Have noticed that people run there front left wheel stright and the right with slight degree toe out??

Can anyone shed any light onto the reason for this?
Not possible. the car will just steer right if you do that, then you adjust your trim on the radio and all of a sudden you have equal toe out both sides.
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Old 08-24-2010, 02:53 AM   #34334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
The cut-down AE arms are being made by BMI Racing (contact details on their website) and are still the best option to get the ride-height you want HTH
Quote:
Originally Posted by avs View Post
bmi 1/12 front arm uses the irs part, same with the diff, rear bearing holders and other front end parts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by V12 View Post
Yes BMI is using the IRS lower arms on the 1/12th car but they also have the cut-down AE arms in their product range.
this should be it

part # DB2110
http://www.bmiracing.com/webstore/ca...8ae60c7e827952
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:37 AM   #34335
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Originally Posted by radio_car_racer View Post
db2110 is for 1/10 scale car size tires. the 1/12 part is db2010. one thing about bmi's website is if an item is out of stock it will not appear, so i am guessing they are out of stock for now.

the 2110 part won't let you run the tire down as far.
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