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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-22-2010, 09:41 AM   #34306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Alot of the locals have said the same thing... Go back to 203.
How do I get 203 back on the rs. In the advanced menu there is no other option apart from 208. with 203 you could go back to previous editions but cant see how you can with 208

If anyone has a way I would do it.
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Old 08-22-2010, 03:37 PM   #34307
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I believe you need to have a computer with the old software on it
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Old 08-22-2010, 04:48 PM   #34308
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Originally Posted by darrenoakley View Post
How do I get 203 back on the rs. In the advanced menu there is no other option apart from 208. with 203 you could go back to previous editions but cant see how you can with 208

If anyone has a way I would do it.
You would have to uninstall the newer version from your computer and then reinstall the older version. Make sure registry is clean before you install the older version. If you install the other version with bits and pieces in the registry, it will probably not work correctly.
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Old 08-22-2010, 05:22 PM   #34309
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Does anyone have a download for the older 203 software? This 208 software is not nearly as good in 12th scale as 203 was.
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Old 08-22-2010, 05:34 PM   #34310
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Originally Posted by KHoff7 View Post
Does anyone have a download for the older 203 software? This 208 software is not nearly as good in 12th scale as 203 was.
Check the Tekin RS thread, there's some guys trading it around there.
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Old 08-22-2010, 06:00 PM   #34311
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Originally Posted by KHoff7 View Post
Does anyone have a download for the older 203 software? This 208 software is not nearly as good in 12th scale as 203 was.
I still have my 203 software..give me your email..i'll sent it you...
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Old 08-22-2010, 06:26 PM   #34312
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I just e-mailed Randy from Tekin to get it since I saw his post offering it in the tekin thread.

Thanks though guys.
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Old 08-22-2010, 06:30 PM   #34313
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Originally Posted by KHoff7 View Post
Does anyone have a download for the older 203 software? This 208 software is not nearly as good in 12th scale as 203 was.
I have to agree 203 is better for 12th scale, tried both software, 208 seems to have smoother feel for driving but on the medium to high traction track just dont have the bottom end that I want.

Anyone had experienced midrange is flat on both software or maybe its my RS speedy having problem
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Old 08-22-2010, 06:36 PM   #34314
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Originally Posted by tl2111 View Post
I have to agree 203 is better for 12th scale, tried both software, 208 seems to have smoother feel for driving but on the medium to high traction track just dont have the bottom end that I want.

Anyone had experienced midrange is flat on both software or maybe its my RS speedy having problem
My car feels just as you describe. It always feels like I am over-geared or don't have the timing coming in soon enough. The turbo never really feels like it is coming on until i get to a long short chute or the straight away. The 203 launched out of the corners where this takes time to spool.

To test my low end rpm theory I tried 5k start and 3k start, the 3k felt significantly better so I am guessing that a 1700 start rpm or somewhere in that range will be the ticket. (just as I used to run on 203 when it had much more bottom end)
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Old 08-22-2010, 06:45 PM   #34315
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Originally Posted by KHoff7 View Post
My car feels just as you describe. It always feels like I am over-geared or don't have the timing coming in soon enough. The turbo never really feels like it is coming on until i get to a long short chute or the straight away. The 203 launched out of the corners where this takes time to spool.

To test my low end rpm theory I tried 5k start and 3k start, the 3k felt significantly better so I am guessing that a 1700 start rpm or somewhere in that range will be the ticket. (just as I used to run on 203 when it had much more bottom end)
I tried 208 with end rpm 4k with 19xx start(lowest I can chose), it spools up quicker but motor get hot and you'll notice the timing has kicks in at good RPM but ends too early.
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Old 08-22-2010, 06:47 PM   #34316
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Originally Posted by tl2111 View Post
I tried 208 with end rpm 4k with 19xx start(lowest I can chose), it spools up quicker but motor get hot and you'll notice the timing has kicks in at good RPM but ends too early.
Thats good to hear, so it makes sense to try 203 with the early rpm start but keep a normal end rpm.
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Old 08-22-2010, 08:19 PM   #34317
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so it seems that 203 is better for the 12th. I am running 17.5. Does anyone have some good settings and rollout for a track that is 70x35?
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Old 08-22-2010, 08:40 PM   #34318
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I am glad that I am not the only one having a issue with the 208 software. I have not had much time to work with it so I am yet to give up. My car was soft on the bottom and felt as if it is over timed with the motor getting hotter.
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Old 08-22-2010, 09:31 PM   #34319
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
To do it properly would require a jig and a mill to make sure you don't affect caster and/or camber as you remove material. This is NOT a job most racers have the appropriate equipment for.

Note that IRS may have discontinued the modified AE arms they were doing, but have done so because they have released their own arm they themselves designed and are molding. Instead of the marginal gain seen by modifying the AE arms (they only "lower" it 1/16") the new IRS lower arms go WAY lower. You can run the front tires right down to the rims if that's what you want to do.

These new arms are EXCELLENT pieces, but I STRONGLY recommend purchasing a 8-32 RH tap (about $5-6) and properly cutting threads into these rather than mashing screws through them to make threads. The design is very good but creates a stress riser where the upper arm mount is let into the lower arm. I've seen these arms crack along these risers when threaded with a screw...I've never seen one crack that has been properly tapped.

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Had to search way back to 2008 for this one!
Dusting off the 12L3 and having trouble getting the front up to 3mm.
Are the IRS arms being discussed here part #4221 ? The IRS site and sites selling them don't mention that these are lower to the chassis.

Thanks.
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Old 08-22-2010, 10:36 PM   #34320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dread Pirate View Post
IRS arms part #4221


They will allow you to lower the front ride height.

They are IRS's own brand front arms.
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