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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-19-2010, 02:27 PM   #34276
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I made a national A final with that front end, 3 days after I got sent the car I then changed it for an AE one over night and made the A again the following day with an L4 front end!!

Got a feeling that the FE that DS used in Gran Caneria wasn't exactly the same as the production one - I think it had shorter lower arms, and was worse!! That said, were it not for a servo issue, DS could well have won a euro champs with it........ Maybe that wouldn't have been an indication on the car though
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:08 PM   #34277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
It was never badged a Schumacher, but...

The Schumacher C car used that style of front suspension in 1984, the first time it was seen on a 12th car. It was a great car, and won the European Champs in 1985 and 1986 - over 20 years before Corally did the same thing in aluminium. And lets not forget that CEFX did the same thing with the C12 in 2004!

Corallys have always been Corallys, and they sold at their best when driven by one David Spashett, who won them their only two IFMAR WCs. David has retired now, and Corally sales seem to have retired with him! It is also worth pointing out that David was soundly beaten in the 2005 European Champs using that front end, but wiped the floor with everyone at the 2006 Worlds using the same car with an Associated front end - 'nuff said!! HTH
The C Car definitely had that style of front end, I had one! Earlier version than the one in the pic though, stick pack version. Worked pretty well as SlowerOne has described.

Time moves on though, and the dynamic strut front end is definitely a better solution. Time will tell if the double wishbone front end will be better still.

Trev
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:11 PM   #34278
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That front end is basically what would be called a "swing arm" suspension in the big car world. Anyone that knows anything about the rear suspensions on VW Beetles, Auto Union F1 cars and Corvairs knows all about the problems with such a design.
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:15 PM   #34279
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I figured that would be a good conversation piece

I still have an SP12G sitting in a box, always thought Corally made very well built cars.
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:15 PM   #34280
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Hi Trev I wanted to use the set up you have put on the Tekin site but I will only be running 13.5. What if anything would you suggest changing to make this set up work with the smaller motor ?
RC12r5 1s lipo and 6.6pack receiver Tekin rs novak 13.5 ss
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:37 PM   #34281
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SMC 60C+ 5600mAh now !!
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:39 PM   #34282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darrenoakley View Post
Hi Trev I wanted to use the set up you have put on the Tekin site but I will only be running 13.5. What if anything would you suggest changing to make this set up work with the smaller motor ?
RC12r5 1s lipo and 6.6pack receiver Tekin rs novak 13.5 ss
Hi Darren, not too experienced with either 13.5s or Novaks I'm afraid. From what I remember Novaks have quite high timing as standard, so change the timing boost to around 45 and slowly work up from there. Also you will need a higher rollout with a 13.5, maybe around 65mm per rev, but that's a guess. Maybe someone else could point you in the right direction there.

(I'm gonna have to have a word with Randy about the name though )

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Old 08-19-2010, 04:50 PM   #34283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nutsisneat View Post
Sorry to correct you, but:

These cars are certainly not rebadged Schumacher cars.
They are genuine Corally cars from the Netherlands.

The original wheels look a bit like the old Schumacher ones, but they are
different.
I stand corrected! I knew you guy's would keep me honest!

I had a very good frind that ran the Schumacher cars back in the 80's and this Corally looked a lot like those cars down to the rear axle tube and the rubber O ring T bar retainers.
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:12 PM   #34284
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2nd r12 almost finished for paved surface. destroyed my carpet spec and just waiting for parts
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:19 PM   #34285
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Quote:
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2nd r12 almost finished for paved surface. destroyed my carpet spec and just waiting for parts
What did you break ?
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:21 PM   #34286
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What did you break ?
rear pod and left front arms! Its handling so perfect so I got cocky and went flat out on a slow 90 degree turn and smashed into a pvc tube...HARD!!! lol
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:30 PM   #34287
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Originally Posted by hotdognobun View Post
2nd r12 almost finished for paved surface. destroyed my carpet spec and just waiting for parts
Those are really long hubs...must be a very deep off-set on the Yokomo wheels
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:43 PM   #34288
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Noticed you are using a spring at the front of the R12??

is that really needed?

The manual from what I can see requires 450 front and 350 rear

Was thinking more 800 and 600 for out door track???
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:46 PM   #34289
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rear pod and left front arms! Its handling so perfect so I got cocky and went flat out on a slow 90 degree turn and smashed into a pvc tube...HARD!!! lol
Thats sorta nice to know it was you pushing your luck, Im rather excited to get mine going, hopefully the servo turns up today then i'll be able to give it a run on the weekend
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Old 08-19-2010, 07:10 PM   #34290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eichkay View Post
Thats sorta nice to know it was you pushing your luck, Im rather excited to get mine going, hopefully the servo turns up today then i'll be able to give it a run on the weekend
Have decided to just drill a hole 3mm over and still use my BLS 651 servo.
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