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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-10-2010, 03:05 PM   #34201
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Originally Posted by dumper View Post
Actually it does run 2s lipo. Quite well as a matter of fact.

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...rticle&sid=121

Also I tested 2s as hot as 10.5 with that speed control. It does not get warm at all. I pulled 10-15 feet on the straight over the "laptoppers". I ended up running back to back heats with the same motor and speed control (had 5 minutes to change battery and tires), the motor came off 125, speed control, had no heat. It was 95 degrees. I saw alot of the "laptoppers" letting out magic smoke out of both motors and speed controls trying to keep up.
Ok fine...though it is listed as a 1s ESC. Either way my point is still valid. It is no where near double the cost. One could think of it this way: For only about $60-$70 more you get a netbook too which is a pretty good deal.
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Old 08-10-2010, 03:06 PM   #34202
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Or you can just hit up one of the guys at the track with the laptop and software. I dont like carrying the extra baggage to the track and there is always at least 3 or 4 guys there who can set you up. So now its down to just buying the speedo and the hotwire to mess with at home.
Exactly!
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Old 08-10-2010, 03:13 PM   #34203
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No thanks. I would rather have victories than a laptop.

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Old 08-10-2010, 03:15 PM   #34204
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Originally Posted by dumper View Post
I get 3 runs out of a 180mah lipo receiver pack on my BD. So apparently not only is my 180mah pack powering my car, but the BD is charging it as I run.

And for a guy like me that does not own a laptop, a tekin will cost me as much as 2 BD's.

Tekin+Hotwire+laptop = 2 Advanced speed controls.

It is a year later and the same conversation is still going on.
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Ok fine...though it is listed as a 1s ESC. Either way my point is still valid. It is no where near double the cost. One could think of it this way: For only about $60-$70 more you get a netbook too which is a pretty good deal.
And it gets even better when you need more than 1 ESC.

2 Tekin RS ESCs: $320
Hotwire: $38
Netbook: $220

Total: $578

2 Black Diamond 1s ESCs: $698

Since I currently use 2 RS ESCs not only did I save $120 but I still got a netbook in the deal
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Old 08-10-2010, 03:16 PM   #34205
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No thanks. I would rather have victories than a laptop.

The ESC isn't going to give you victories...the driver is.
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Old 08-10-2010, 03:45 PM   #34206
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
The ESC isn't going to give you victories...the driver is.
Yea Dumper really does need work on his driving.


2008 12th scale national champion.

How do ya like them apples.
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Old 08-10-2010, 04:02 PM   #34207
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They are both very good speedos and if i remember correctly, everyone was scrambling for tekin speedos at the birds 2 years ago and are still scrabling now. The year before that at the IIC,BD speedos stomped everyone and at that time it didnt matter what car you had or how good you were, those things just flat out killed everyone. To be honest, both ESC's are friggin awesome. I am partial to the tekin because that is what i have. By no means will either win or lose the race. With the quality of both speedos, its coming down to how you drive. And yes, the tekin is cheaper but if you go all out with the laptop, it is just as expensive.
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Old 08-10-2010, 04:09 PM   #34208
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Not quite (From Stormer Hobbies prices):

Tekin RS - $160
Hotwire - $38
Netbook - $220 (from Best Buy)

Total: $418

Black Diamond (1s): $349

So the price difference isn't anywhere near 2 Black Diamonds...not only that the RS at that will also run 2s where that version of the Black Diamond will not. So a better comparison would be with the 2s Black Diamond at $400. Plus many people already have a laptop already that they can use. If not they will have a desktop at home they can use. You don't have to have a laptop and haul it around with you. It is nice to have but not necessary. Fortunately I do but I find that once I get the setup where I want I stop bringing the laptop and only to minor changes at home.
I ran the "1S" BD at Snowbirds in 13.5 TC and finished 3rd in the "A" ran it at Cleveland and finished 3rd in 17.5 TC "A" also. motor 200+ speedo 130 at the worse and no fan
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Old 08-10-2010, 04:12 PM   #34209
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This past week's ROAR Nats offered a really good comparison between the Tekin and BD ESC's. One notable driver drove the Tekin in quals 1 and 3, and the BD in quals 2 and 4. It was a draw. I was temping his motors as they came off, and they were virtually the same (Ballistics in both.) The small variability in times in an actual race environment had far more to do with the track and traffic than the speedos.

The value proposition for each ESC is different, yet equally compelling when the end results are considered. It's just good to have two quality options that can deliver similar benefits.
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Old 08-10-2010, 04:24 PM   #34210
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Originally Posted by Jeremy Otis View Post
Yea Dumper really does need work on his driving.


2008 12th scale national champion.

How do ya like them apples.
Which really goes to my point...He probably would have won no matter which ESC was in his car. But at his level it may have helped. For average Joe racer the difference is largely psychological and not actually due to any change in hard ware.

Heck If I could afford to spend that much on just an ESC right now I would probably get a BD too just to try it out. But I have much more I could spend that money on that is RC related let alone stuff not RC related. But the 2 ESCs in question are close enough in performance that my level of driving isn't going to be able to take advantage of any difference. And since I have a computer already at home and friends at the track who bring netbooks...I don't need to go out and buy one just for racing. Fortunately one of the computers I have is a laptop but it doesn't necessarily have to be.

Last edited by InspGadgt; 08-10-2010 at 04:39 PM.
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Old 08-10-2010, 05:20 PM   #34211
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JR 3421 is 65oz. Been using it in my WGT.
Thanks, that confirms my guess.. 75oz was the 6v rating.
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Old 08-10-2010, 05:35 PM   #34212
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There is a lot of good point being made but end of the day

Personal choice comes into it, driving feel of BD gives me what I need (been refered to as the old LRP Sphere)

Recently was in a race meeting where LRP SXX SS, Tekin and BD we where all of same driving skill there was .1 - .3 between us.

At the weekend in my BD powered TC 17.5 vs Tekin 208 we where matched all the way down the stright so pointing at both "it is that one..."

They are both evenly matched Tekin gives you some flexiblity in that you can change the setup to your liking if you know what you are doing.

BD is just profile driven 1 - 5 with Dynamic timing done for you so always the same feel

The question which one, personally BD as that is what is installed in my rides where as someone will always say Tekin if that is what they drive..

Personal choice.
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Old 08-10-2010, 05:50 PM   #34213
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To my mind, the true beauty of the black diamond speedo is its simplicity and ease of use. Just pick the appropriate pre loaded profile and let it rip. With the Tekins, even if you have the laptop and the hotwire, there's always the lingering doubt about whether or not you've chosen the most advantageous settings for all the available adjustments. It's just so much to fuss with. The BD has been proven to be every bit as fast and it's just so much easier to use.
Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Which really goes to my point...He probably would have won no matter which ESC was in his car. But at his level it may have helped. For average Joe racer the difference is largely psychological and not actually due to any change in hard ware.

Heck If I could afford to spend that much on just an ESC right now I would probably get a BD too just to try it out. But I have much more I could spend that money on that is RC related let alone stuff not RC related. But the 2 ESCs in question are close enough in performance that my level of driving isn't going to be able to take advantage of any difference. And since I have a computer already at home and friends at the track who bring netbooks...I don't need to go out and buy one just for racing. Fortunately one of the computers I have is a laptop but it doesn't necessarily have to be.
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Old 08-10-2010, 06:05 PM   #34214
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I definitely agree with ya there VA. Tekin has tried to get better on that with the new built in profiles but it just isn't the same. The BD is a better plug in and go type solution. But still too expensive.
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Old 08-10-2010, 08:46 PM   #34215
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I definitely agree with ya there VA. Tekin has tried to get better on that with the new built in profiles but it just isn't the same. The BD is a better plug in and go type solution. But still too expensive.
It can be brought here in oz for about $350AU. Thats a bit cheap than the states.
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