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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-09-2010, 09:38 AM   #34171
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I get three full runs from my 180mah rx pack and a Tekin. My car is also faster than the BD equipped cars at our track. The only time a Tekin is slower than an LRP or BD is when the tekin is not properly set-up. I've run all the current speedos but the GM. I always end up back at the Tekin. Smaller, lighter, faster. Of course LRP has recently made their esc's user updatable, and that new Nosram would look great in my CRC cars........
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Old 08-09-2010, 06:47 PM   #34172
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
I get three full runs from my 180mah rx pack and a Tekin. My car is also faster than the BD equipped cars at our track. The only time a Tekin is slower than an LRP or BD is when the tekin is not properly set-up. I've run all the current speedos but the GM. I always end up back at the Tekin. Smaller, lighter, faster. Of course LRP has recently made their esc's user updatable, and that new Nosram would look great in my CRC cars........
You will have to let everyone know how you are getting so many runs with a receiver pack in your Tekin. Everyone I have seen here barley get a single run with a pack that size.

Mangoman: The input into the BD is direct into the ESC's BEC. Therefore powering the +ve and -ve wires out of the ESC and whatever they plug into. This argument was brought up when the ESC first came out and wooped everything. The speed has nothing to with the receiver pack cause if it did the receiver pack wouldn't last a single lap. Its just dynamic timing same as any decent ESC on the market.
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Old 08-09-2010, 07:24 PM   #34173
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Default Selling my Kawada 1/12ths

I've decided to move on to 1/8th so I'm letting go of my 1/12ths.

I'm posting it here because maybe someone here would be more interested in a Kawada rather than the general FS forum.

I have:
  1. M300 RSX roller
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If you're interested please send me a PM.

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Old 08-09-2010, 07:49 PM   #34174
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You will have to let everyone know how you are getting so many runs with a receiver pack in your Tekin. Everyone I have seen here barley get a single run with a pack that size.
I ran a 250mah receiver pack with my Tekin setup all season this last year. I usually only charged every other race. We ran 10.5, 8 min races and I never had any problems.

Most everyone at our track ran Tekins and I can only think of one person who went through some receiver packs; I'm pretty sure there was something wrong with his ESC. I'll have to get with him to find out what ended up being the problem.
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Old 08-09-2010, 08:24 PM   #34175
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You will have to let everyone know how you are getting so many runs with a receiver pack in your Tekin. Everyone I have seen here barley get a single run with a pack that size.
Either those people are running some serious amp sucking servos or you're just trying to start something. Most people are only using between 40 and 80 mah per 8 minute run. I myself was using about 60 mah. I would run my tiny little 300mah pack 2 to 3 runs on a charge. Probably could go more but just wanted to be sure.

As for the BD, I have yet to see one that could keep up with a properly set-up and driven Tekin 203, much less 208 so you can keep your expensive, un-upgradeable soon to be paperweight.
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Old 08-09-2010, 08:26 PM   #34176
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I can only think of one person who went through some receiver packs;
Ricky had some issues but it turned out to be his regulator. Me, I just used a diode. No problems at all. Want to try a LiFe pack this winter.
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Old 08-09-2010, 09:13 PM   #34177
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Ricky had some issues but it turned out to be his regulator. Me, I just used a diode. No problems at all. Want to try a LiFe pack this winter.
I'm running 1/12-- 13.5 w/ Tekin on carpet out here in California--and I'm only using 70 to 80mah per 9 to 10 minute run!! I've got a 250mah pack and I charge it every 2 heats is all. And it only takes 150 to 160mah to charge it full again. I'm using a digital Hitec servo for steering. That's it!!
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Old 08-09-2010, 09:37 PM   #34178
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You will have to let everyone know how you are getting so many runs with a receiver pack in your Tekin. Everyone I have seen here barley get a single run with a pack that size.

Mangoman: The input into the BD is direct into the ESC's BEC. Therefore powering the +ve and -ve wires out of the ESC and whatever they plug into. This argument was brought up when the ESC first came out and wooped everything. The speed has nothing to with the receiver pack cause if it did the receiver pack wouldn't last a single lap. Its just dynamic timing same as any decent ESC on the market.
Your assesment of the bec/rx pack is very accurate. There's no cheating going on wuth the BD. It's a great product. It's just retarded that it has to be sent in for a simple software upgrade.

My electronics package is simple: Futaba 9650 servo, set so there is NO overrun. I use maybe 50mah per run. If your endpoints aren't properly set you'll burn through WAY more mah per run. If you set it up properly, you should make 3 runs with ease.
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Old 08-10-2010, 12:06 AM   #34179
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Either those people are running some serious amp sucking servos or you're just trying to start something. Most people are only using between 40 and 80 mah per 8 minute run. I myself was using about 60 mah. I would run my tiny little 300mah pack 2 to 3 runs on a charge. Probably could go more but just wanted to be sure.

As for the BD, I have yet to see one that could keep up with a properly set-up and driven Tekin 203, much less 208 so you can keep your expensive, un-upgradeable soon to be paperweight.
I ain't start something, its just what I have seen here locally. It may just be poor setup like you guys have said. BD is upgradeable, its just not a huge talking point. So far it isn't close to needing it.

As for Tekin being fast, they are been beaten by pretty much everything in my area at the moment. It seems to have a very narrow window to get its performance right up there... Something others speedo's don't have much problem with. I think most people still running Tekin do so because they think somehow they will get another update that provides a huge speed increase, so they hang on and wait.
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Old 08-10-2010, 01:45 AM   #34180
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
I ain't start something, its just what I have seen here locally. It may just be poor setup like you guys have said. BD is upgradeable, its just not a huge talking point. So far it isn't close to needing it.

As for Tekin being fast, they are been beaten by pretty much everything in my area at the moment. It seems to have a very narrow window to get its performance right up there... Something others speedo's don't have much problem with. I think most people still running Tekin do so because they think somehow they will get another update that provides a huge speed increase, so they hang on and wait.
I can back up Dragonfire in respect to some local drivers using way more than 50mah from their receiver pack. I may well be just about servo's but also some people have found that with 203 you lose some performance if you turn the ESC switch off. With the switch on it seems that you chew through a bit more of you receiver battery. Some people have even dumped their 200mah within 8min. It seems many others have had no problems! Thats the great thing about RcTech, people from around the world can share knowledge and help each other.

As far as comparing performance of different esc's, thats not so easy in my opinion. I believe it can only be done at big events when fields of quality drivers line up against each other. Just as we have seen the BD's wallop the competition at some club races, I am sure others have seen Tekin or LRP do the same at their local club. A lot depends how well drivers can set up their ESC/gearing/motor timing and also driving has a lot to do with it. A very good driver who can carry more corner speed can gear up a tooth or 2 over the competition and appear to have more power. Credit must be given to Tekin for continuously improving their products via firmware just as Advanced Electronics deserves credit for pioneering the technology that has seen massive improvements of speed in our sport.

Now to the real argument. How much is 1/12th way cooler than all the other classes?
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Old 08-10-2010, 01:57 AM   #34181
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Your assesment of the bec/rx pack is very accurate. There's no cheating going on wuth the BD. It's a great product. It's just retarded that it has to be sent in for a simple software upgrade.
I didnt see the previous discussion, but to me it seems the rules havent been changed.

I cant say anything about how the pack plugs in to the esc. But technically speaking to me its not a BEC if its got a battery!
Hence then name Battery Eliminator!!!!

As i said strictly speaking the rules effectively state that a receiver pack must be plugged into the receiver.

For me when i was running a tekin with the tekin 203/10.5 sensored mode i would use 110 mah each time when the esc was turned on. Was a pain with the 200 mah life pack as i couldnt get two runs.

If i forgot to turn the esc on it only seemed to use 60-70mah but to me it seemed the car had less power (dont know if it was a mind thing though)
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Old 08-10-2010, 02:52 AM   #34182
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Ive just brought a R12, went to install a Futaba S9650 to find its too wide, argh... what servos are going to fit in ?? I cant seem to find much specs of the mounting tab widths of KO or JR servos.

The Yokomo R12 has a 38mm wide center to center for the servo point

please help..

i found this photo as a referance for the servo i need but i dont know what it is..

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Old 08-10-2010, 03:00 AM   #34183
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I didnt see the previous discussion, but to me it seems the rules havent been changed.

I cant say anything about how the pack plugs in to the esc. But technically speaking to me its not a BEC if its got a battery!
Hence then name Battery Eliminator!!!!

As i said strictly speaking the rules effectively state that a receiver pack must be plugged into the receiver.

For me when i was running a tekin with the tekin 203/10.5 sensored mode i would use 110 mah each time when the esc was turned on. Was a pain with the 200 mah life pack as i couldnt get two runs.

If i forgot to turn the esc on it only seemed to use 60-70mah but to me it seemed the car had less power (dont know if it was a mind thing though)
From AARCMCC
3.1.7 The maximum of number sub C cells allowed:
Six (6) for Stock & Super Stock ISTC classes,
Five (5) for modified ISTC class
Four (4) for 1/12th scale
For the purpose of motive power, cooling fans, radio equipment and transponders only in all car classes,
and must conform to the battery section rules in ELECTRIC MOTORS AND BATTERIES.
A receiver battery pack must only supply power to radio receivers for its operation and the control
only of addition equipment listed: speed controls, servos and transponders for their operation. No
other devices will be powered from a receiver pack.

As stated above it doesn't mention where you plug it in, only what it can be used for. Hard to believe its such a big deal.

So the real question is... Why does the Tekin use more power (rx pack) and seem to go faster when you switch it on with a receiver pack? If the motor is pulling from the RX pack it is putting it under a massive load that is unsafe. What happens if you remove a wire from the receiver plug and turn it on (ie the red wire)?
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Old 08-10-2010, 03:59 AM   #34184
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Naoto uses Sanwa radios, so i guess it is a Sanwa servo.
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Old 08-10-2010, 04:19 AM   #34185
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Here is some testing that i did last year with boosters and the Tekin.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/6357275-post303.html
One day when i get my hands on a fried one i will looking into what is sucking all the power.
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