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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-07-2010, 03:49 PM   #34156
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Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Hi!

What do you think about this:
Speed Power - 5500mah 3.7V 45C (1S)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Is ok or better choose another one?


Regards!
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if you go straight to the speed power website. the cells are cheaper not by much but still cheaper then going through ebay
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Old 08-07-2010, 03:54 PM   #34157
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Get a better ESC and you won't have too.
That made me laugh. If you check my signature you will see that I am running the Tekin rs with my 12th I thought they were good speedos. Yes I know they dont put out a 6volt supply to the receiver like the new Nosram but i like to be able to tweak stuff with the laptop.

Pointless post really
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Old 08-07-2010, 11:37 PM   #34158
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Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
Check that both king pins are straight. If that checks out, try swapping your front springs from right to left and see if the problem follows.
I got new king pins and springs on a completely brand new frontend. Noting changed, I adjusted the ride height with spacers and shims as close as possible. I'll give it a try tomorrow at the track to see what happens.
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Old 08-08-2010, 06:04 AM   #34159
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Originally Posted by tiko View Post
I got new king pins and springs on a completely brand new frontend. Noting changed, I adjusted the ride height with spacers and shims as close as possible. I'll give it a try tomorrow at the track to see what happens.
Wow... I'm tapped out man, sorry.
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Old 08-08-2010, 08:16 AM   #34160
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Okay, besides the main chassis, the rear pod, and the aluminum parts front and rear I changed everything on the car. Chassis and the pod are flat as it can be and the aluminum parts look good to me. Unless I'm missing something this car is turning in to a mystery.
Are your tires the same size left to right. Make the two fronts are the same and the two rears are the same. They never wear the same.
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Old 08-08-2010, 07:09 PM   #34161
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Originally Posted by tiko View Post
I got new king pins and springs on a completely brand new frontend. Noting changed, I adjusted the ride height with spacers and shims as close as possible. I'll give it a try tomorrow at the track to see what happens.
when i am desperate, it can be helpful to swap parts from left to right and see when the problem switches sides.

you might also try starting simple and work up, for example start with the chassis on a flat surface and measure the height of the lower arm surface then compare axle heights and the top of the upper arm.

people did mention the springs being sacked, but additional shims above the upper arm can remove any droop and isolate that. any extra or missing shims between the upper and lower arms will make things uneven.
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:16 PM   #34162
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Wow... I'm tapped out man, sorry.
I had 4 other guys at the track check the car and no one has seen anything like this. This car is not drivable. Thanks for your help. I'm going to take the car a part tomorrow one more time and go over everything again.
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:16 PM   #34163
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Are your tires the same size left to right. Make the two fronts are the same and the two rears are the same. They never wear the same.
Yes.
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:24 PM   #34164
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Originally Posted by avs View Post
when i am desperate, it can be helpful to swap parts from left to right and see when the problem switches sides.

you might also try starting simple and work up, for example start with the chassis on a flat surface and measure the height of the lower arm surface then compare axle heights and the top of the upper arm.

people did mention the springs being sacked, but additional shims above the upper arm can remove any droop and isolate that. any extra or missing shims between the upper and lower arms will make things uneven.
Hey Tony, I'm going to take the car apart tomorrow and I'll swap the aluminum pieces from the frontend that's the only thing that I haven't tried. Everything else on the front is brand new. I hope that I can find a solution for this because I like the 1/12th scale car more than my TC.
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Old 08-08-2010, 10:06 PM   #34165
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That made me laugh. If you check my signature you will see that I am running the Tekin rs with my 12th I thought they were good speedohttp://www.rctech.net/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=7774084s. Yes I know they dont put out a 6volt supply to the receiver like the new Nosram but i like to be able to tweak stuff with the laptop.

Pointless post really
Thats why I was trying to help you... Because you had a Tekin...

If you run a receiver pack the BD gives you three full runs before topping up (wired straight into the BEC on the ESC, something no other speedo can do), more grunt and pretty much the same speed. No laptop required.

If run time isn't an issue the LRP SXX SS (or copy) with built in booster is also very good and is just as fast as the BD or Tekin but also doesn't require a laptop to go fast.

12th has been increasing in popularity here in Sydney quite a bit recently and pretty much everyone has dumped the hassles of the Tekin for the simplicity of the LRP, especially with people getting rid of them cheap. The rest of us run BD's with a mix of receiver packs and boosters.

Of note the BD is proving to be the pace setter.
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Old 08-08-2010, 11:18 PM   #34166
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Actually, technically speaking a receiver pack must be plugged into a receiver and not the speedie. Time for a protest!
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Old 08-09-2010, 05:29 AM   #34167
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Actually, technically speaking a receiver pack must be plugged into a receiver and not the speedie. Time for a protest!
Correction! Read the rules and it states what the receiver pack can be used to power, not where it plugs in.

You just wish you could do the same.
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Old 08-09-2010, 06:03 AM   #34168
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Thats why I was trying to help you... Because you had a Tekin...

If you run a receiver pack the BD gives you three full runs before topping up (wired straight into the BEC on the ESC, something no other speedo can do), more grunt and pretty much the same speed. No laptop required.

If run time isn't an issue the LRP SXX SS (or copy) with built in booster is also very good and is just as fast as the BD or Tekin but also doesn't require a laptop to go fast.

12th has been increasing in popularity here in Sydney quite a bit recently and pretty much everyone has dumped the hassles of the Tekin for the simplicity of the LRP, especially with people getting rid of them cheap. The rest of us run BD's with a mix of receiver packs and boosters.

Of note the BD is proving to be the pace setter.

Well with the price of a BD being twice that of a Tekin you could buy a nice little pile of receiver packs to change out. That pile would almost be as big as the LRP speedos that were not updatable and are virtually useless now.
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Old 08-09-2010, 07:51 AM   #34169
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Well with the price of a BD being twice that of a Tekin you could buy a nice little pile of receiver packs to change out. That pile would almost be as big as the LRP speedos that were not updatable and are virtually useless now.
LOL this could go on forever! Well you need a pile of receiver packs to do just one run with a Tekin, and ESC size is very close anyway but that is irrelevent as they all fit easy in a 12th. From what I have seen the LRP dosen't need to be updateable cause it will take a while for the Tekin to catch up with what it offers. Anyway if you think it works for you then stick with it. Locally I have seen a very different picture.
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Old 08-09-2010, 09:14 AM   #34170
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Correction! Read the rules and it states what the receiver pack can be used to power, not where it plugs in.

You just wish you could do the same.
As per http://www.aarcmcc.org/docs/Electric...0July%2008.pdf

3.1.7
A receiver battery pack must only supply power to radio receivers for its operation......

Kind of makes sense seeing that its a "receiver" pack and when its plugged directly to a speedie you dont really know what the speedie is doing with the power. Although im sure the tekin is faster with a receiver pack, although that could be because the speedie is browning out without the pack (like a novak smart boost does with the tekin).

ROAR rules are not as specific:
Receiver and servo power for electric vehicles may come from an electronic speed controller equipped with Battery Elimination Circuitry (BEC) or from a separate battery pack used for this purpose only. (See rule 1.5.19).

However, to me the same stands, as my understanding of the concept of a BEC is take the main battery power and (usually) drop it as required to provide power to the receiver. It certainly doesnt say that a receiver pack can be used to provide power to an esc.

Ooops thought this was the australian thread, but i still believe my comments are correct :P
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Last edited by mangoman; 08-09-2010 at 09:50 AM.
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