R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-07-2010, 02:23 AM   #34141
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 130
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tiko View Post
The rear axle spacers are the same size I checked it ten times. Also if it wasn't the axle wont rotate properly. I tried that too.
I had that happen once, check the aluminum bulkheads on the rear pods. Take them off and check they still straight... If they bend even a bit this happens... Like I said happened once to me... If it is that you can straighten them, but do it gently and slowly or it will crack.
__________________
Corally PHI/PHI 09 TEAM DRIVER
BMI DB12RR TEAM DRIVER
TOP
LRP TC SXX, LRP SXX Ver. 2, LRP X12 Octa, Futaba 3PKS Spektrum Module, Protform.
SOUTH AFRICA :)
PHI/BMI racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2010, 02:31 AM   #34142
Tech Fanatic
 
tiko's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 936
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to tiko
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
Have you tried loosening and retorquing all the rear pod screws? Check the lower pod plate for flat?
Yes I did that with everything on the car. I don't get your second question. What do you mean by (pod plate for flat?)
__________________
LionArtPrints - Custom Apparel, Hats, PitMats, RC Car Bags, and More
tiko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2010, 02:36 AM   #34143
Tech Fanatic
 
tiko's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 936
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to tiko
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PHI/BMI racer View Post
I had that happen once, check the aluminum bulkheads on the rear pods. Take them off and check they still straight... If they bend even a bit this happens... Like I said happened once to me... If it is that you can straighten them, but do it gently and slowly or it will crack.
I did check the bulkheads when I took the car apart. But I'll check it one more time in the morning. Thanks
__________________
LionArtPrints - Custom Apparel, Hats, PitMats, RC Car Bags, and More
tiko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2010, 03:07 AM   #34144
Tech Master
 
HarryLeach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Hampton, VA, USA
Posts: 1,596
Send a message via AIM to HarryLeach
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tiko View Post
Yes I did that with everything on the car. I don't get your second question. What do you mean by (pod plate for flat?)
I meant to make sure your lower pod plate is flat when removed from the car. If everything else measures straight, make sure the pod plate itself isn't tweaked. Stranger things have happened, and I've seen it before.

EDIT: Second thought, are you measuring this difference in ride height at the RR on the main chassis, or at the pod under the axle?
__________________
Privateer racing lots of stuff.
Remember kids, racing isn't fair!

Last edited by HarryLeach; 08-07-2010 at 03:23 AM.
HarryLeach is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2010, 03:08 AM   #34145
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Belgium
Posts: 526
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tiko View Post
I'm new to 1/12th scale and to RC racing in general. On the 12R5 I don't think that the front end is adjustable (I could be wrong on this though maybe someone that has the same car and a little more experience could answer that question). To change the ride height I change the shims and true the tires. Now after posting my question I changed everything on the front end just to make sure that I don't have any of the parts bent or broken. Unfortunately this didn't fix the problem that I'm having. I also tried to measure from on top of the axel like the TC cars for droop and it's equal. My ride height is 3.8 front and rear on the left side of the car. It's 3.6 on the front and 3.2 on the rear on the right side of the car. As for the Left and Right sides the car's front end is facing you.
You need to check the car with a loaded front end! this means the springs must have the weight of the car on them, its easily possible that in the unloaded front end the top of the axles are exactly the same, then you put the tires on and the springs are compressed different.
when the front and is off by a few tenths this means mm's off in the rear!
One other thing I've seen alot is the height spacer makes the front lower whishbone not sit straight.
As far as I can see on the asso website you can shim the front kingpins to adjust droop.

When you tell me you have a difference of 0.2mm in the front (yeah, I forgot to read the post fully) its simple, shim the kingpins: check the spacing between lower whishbone and steering block with the loaded frontend.
__________________
Make it idiot-proof, and someone will make a better idiot.
Quante is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2010, 05:52 AM   #34146
Tech Fanatic
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Poland, Warsaw
Posts: 772
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
No one drives Receiver Battery's???

Best Regards

Robert
I try two options:
- small lipo pack with voltage regulator or one diode ;-),
- small life pack from GM (220mah or something).

For me is better choose voltage booster, the small one from
UK ebay (cheap and working). No problems with charging 2nd battery.

With S9650, futaba 2.4ghz receiver and gm speedo I never found problems,
just take 3.7V from 1S lipo, put output (about 5.2V) to RX and forget all problems. Also don;t cut red wire

You can also choose bigger boosters like NOVAK or others but why I should pay 10x more ??? I don't see it now

Regards!
Michal
__________________
Michal Abramowicz
http://abram.eu.org/gear_tc6.php
My setups there -> http://www.rc-setups.com
TC6!, TC5R, 12L4, 12R5.1, 10L2, 10R5, RC8T_CE_EL custom F1 chassis
http://www.wgtshop.com/
M.Abramowicz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2010, 07:14 AM   #34147
Tech Regular
 
darrenoakley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Dorset UK
Posts: 266
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
I try two options:
- small lipo pack with voltage regulator or one diode ;-),
- small life pack from GM (220mah or something).

For me is better choose voltage booster, the small one from
UK ebay (cheap and working). No problems with charging 2nd battery.

With S9650, futaba 2.4ghz receiver and gm speedo I never found problems,
just take 3.7V from 1S lipo, put output (about 5.2V) to RX and forget all problems. Also don;t cut red wire

You can also choose bigger boosters like NOVAK or others but why I should pay 10x more ??? I don't see it now

Regards!
Michal
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Voltage-Booste...#ht_3546wt_913
Is this the one your using ?
I am running a receiver pack but dont want to have to charge the bloody thing after each race.
__________________
Xray x11
Xray T3 011
darrenoakley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2010, 07:51 AM   #34148
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 5,310
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by darrenoakley View Post
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Voltage-Booste...#ht_3546wt_913
Is this the one your using ?
I am running a receiver pack but dont want to have to charge the bloody thing after each race.
Get a better ESC and you won't have too.
__________________
Blade: Andro Treiber H 79g AN
FH: Donic Bluefire M3 Max Blk
BH: Donic Bluefire M2 Max Red
Powered by Falco
Dragonfire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2010, 08:20 AM   #34149
Tech Lord
 
wingracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12,634
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tiko View Post
My ride height is 3.8 front and rear on the left side of the car. It's 3.6 on the front and 3.2 on the rear on the right side of the car. As for the Left and Right sides the car's front end is facing you.
Right there is the problem. It's in the front end. Either that spring has sagged or something has got bent or tweaked in the front end.
__________________
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
Team Shepherd USA
www.ashfordhobby.com
wingracer is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2010, 10:09 AM   #34150
avs
Tech Master
 
avs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,144
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by darrenoakley View Post
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Voltage-Booste...#ht_3546wt_913
Is this the one your using ?
I am running a receiver pack but dont want to have to charge the bloody thing after each race.
that looks to be the hobbyking version, which is very similar to the TQracing version. the TQ comes with more wire and a switch.

the hobbyking style needs a little wiring work to connect it from the battery to the receiver. you want to boost the voltage to the servo and ESC.
__________________
Tony Shimko
avs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2010, 10:51 AM   #34151
Tech Fanatic
 
tiko's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 936
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to tiko
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
I meant to make sure your lower pod plate is flat when removed from the car. If everything else measures straight, make sure the pod plate itself isn't tweaked. Stranger things have happened, and I've seen it before.

EDIT: Second thought, are you measuring this difference in ride height at the RR on the main chassis, or at the pod under the axle?
Okay I got it. As for the ride height I'm measuring on the main chassis.
__________________
LionArtPrints - Custom Apparel, Hats, PitMats, RC Car Bags, and More
tiko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2010, 10:55 AM   #34152
Tech Fanatic
 
tiko's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 936
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to tiko
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quante View Post
You need to check the car with a loaded front end! this means the springs must have the weight of the car on them, its easily possible that in the unloaded front end the top of the axles are exactly the same, then you put the tires on and the springs are compressed different.
when the front and is off by a few tenths this means mm's off in the rear!
One other thing I've seen alot is the height spacer makes the front lower whishbone not sit straight.
As far as I can see on the asso website you can shim the front kingpins to adjust droop.

When you tell me you have a difference of 0.2mm in the front (yeah, I forgot to read the post fully) its simple, shim the kingpins: check the spacing between lower whishbone and steering block with the loaded frontend.

Thanks I'll give that a try as well.
__________________
LionArtPrints - Custom Apparel, Hats, PitMats, RC Car Bags, and More
tiko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2010, 11:05 AM   #34153
Tech Fanatic
 
tiko's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 936
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to tiko
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Right there is the problem. It's in the front end. Either that spring has sagged or something has got bent or tweaked in the front end.
Okay, besides the main chassis, the rear pod, and the aluminum parts front and rear I changed everything on the car. Chassis and the pod are flat as it can be and the aluminum parts look good to me. Unless I'm missing something this car is turning in to a mystery.
__________________
LionArtPrints - Custom Apparel, Hats, PitMats, RC Car Bags, and More
tiko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2010, 11:13 AM   #34154
Tech Fanatic
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Poland, Warsaw
Posts: 772
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by darrenoakley View Post
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Voltage-Booste...#ht_3546wt_913
Is this the one your using ?
I am running a receiver pack but dont want to have to charge the bloody thing after each race.
This one.

Maybe is not the best one in the whole world but for me is OK :-) !

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Get a better ESC and you won't have too.
:-) should I give my Paypal account and wait for some money from you ?

Sorry I can not hold my hands :P

Regards!
M.
__________________
Michal Abramowicz
http://abram.eu.org/gear_tc6.php
My setups there -> http://www.rc-setups.com
TC6!, TC5R, 12L4, 12R5.1, 10L2, 10R5, RC8T_CE_EL custom F1 chassis
http://www.wgtshop.com/
M.Abramowicz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2010, 02:38 PM   #34155
Tech Master
 
HarryLeach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Hampton, VA, USA
Posts: 1,596
Send a message via AIM to HarryLeach
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tiko View Post
Okay I got it. As for the ride height I'm measuring on the main chassis.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tiko View Post
Okay, besides the main chassis, the rear pod, and the aluminum parts front and rear I changed everything on the car. Chassis and the pod are flat as it can be and the aluminum parts look good to me. Unless I'm missing something this car is turning in to a mystery.
Check that both king pins are straight. If that checks out, try swapping your front springs from right to left and see if the problem follows.
__________________
Privateer racing lots of stuff.
Remember kids, racing isn't fair!
HarryLeach is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:44 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0