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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-06-2010, 02:15 PM   #34126
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Originally Posted by darrenoakley View Post
Anyone running Tekin rs 208 software indoors on carpet that has a rough setup for The Tekin would be a great help. My gearing and rollout are ok I think just the Tekin I am struggling with. Its running 13.5 on 1s.

Cheers in advance
Look on the Tekin website and you'll find several 1/12 settings to work from.
That's what I did to make mine go good.
FYI
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Old 08-06-2010, 02:15 PM   #34127
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Originally Posted by tiko View Post
Hey guys I'm having trouble with the ride height. I got a brand new 12R5 the first two set of tires that I had on the car everything was fine. Now I can't get all four corners to be equal height. Looking at the car from the front right rear corner is lowest of all four corners. Now I did take the whole car apart to check and see if anything was bent; everything looks good. Front tires are trued equal and so are the rears. I even tried to much all the ride height shims and the car is still leaning to the right side. I have Jaco and Xceed tires and it's the same with both of them. Has anyone experienced anything like this before. Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Usually something wrong at the front end. Your front right rear corner comment is somewhat confusing but:
remove the tweak springs and side damper, put the car with the kingpins on something solid but of equal height left and right and then you'll prolly see whats wrong. (of course keep the rear tires on as well).
If you measure the rear ride height different left to right check the front. The front difference is multiplied to the rear so its easier to check there.
Unless of course the chassis is bad...
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Old 08-06-2010, 02:42 PM   #34128
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he is saying that the right rear corner is the lowest if looking at it from the front
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Old 08-06-2010, 03:23 PM   #34129
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
When you say the right rear is low, is that the chassis or the pod?

If it's the chassis, try new front springs. AE springs tend to develop a sag pretty quickly. Then check your tweak and balance.
It's the chassis not the pod. I only have one practice day on the front springs but I'll change it just to be sure that's not the problem. Tweak is fine but the balance could be off a little. Thanks for the help.
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Old 08-06-2010, 03:26 PM   #34130
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Originally Posted by Quante View Post
Usually something wrong at the front end. Your front right rear corner comment is somewhat confusing but:
remove the tweak springs and side damper, put the car with the kingpins on something solid but of equal height left and right and then you'll prolly see whats wrong. (of course keep the rear tires on as well).
If you measure the rear ride height different left to right check the front. The front difference is multiplied to the rear so its easier to check there.
Unless of course the chassis is bad...
Thanks I'll give that a try.
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Old 08-06-2010, 07:10 PM   #34131
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Originally Posted by buffalobill989 View Post
this is the way im going to run mine. seems like the way to do it


http://www.rctech.net/forum/7091098-post32.html
The drawing looks like the radio battery is wired backwards. Is this correct?
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Old 08-07-2010, 12:32 AM   #34132
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Default Speed Power - 5500mah 3.7V 45C (1S)

Hi!

What do you think about this:
Speed Power - 5500mah 3.7V 45C (1S)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Is ok or better choose another one?


Regards!
Michal
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Old 08-07-2010, 12:45 AM   #34133
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Originally Posted by tiko View Post
It's the chassis not the pod. I only have one practice day on the front springs but I'll change it just to be sure that's not the problem. Tweak is fine but the balance could be off a little. Thanks for the help.
I am not sure excatly how your front end works but another problem could be the preload on the front springs. Is it adjustable on your car and if so is it equal?
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Old 08-07-2010, 01:13 AM   #34134
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Originally Posted by RacinJ View Post
The drawing looks like the radio battery is wired backwards. Is this correct?
?Yes, and it works. Saves having to buy a LiPo regulator to use with a receiver pack. It does look odd, but remember that the speedo switch is just in the positive side of the feed to its regulator, and not connecting +ve to -ve.
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Old 08-07-2010, 01:20 AM   #34135
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Guy's small Question:

What Receiver Bat's do you prever?
Which do you think are the best?

Best Regards

Robert
No one drives Receiver Battery's???

Best Regards

Robert
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Old 08-07-2010, 01:23 AM   #34136
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Originally Posted by tiko View Post
Thanks I'll give that a try.
Like a few say here, its prolly one of the front springs that has settled a bit, just adjust the front preload on the springs a bit so you exactly the same space between the front suspension block and the steering block left and right.
Spacers are added where they dont hurt the setup, usually the heighest point of the kingpin, just before the highest e-clip (dont know the new asso front end).
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Old 08-07-2010, 01:33 AM   #34137
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
I am not sure excatly how your front end works but another problem could be the preload on the front springs. Is it adjustable on your car and if so is it equal?
I'm new to 1/12th scale and to RC racing in general. On the 12R5 I don't think that the front end is adjustable (I could be wrong on this though maybe someone that has the same car and a little more experience could answer that question). To change the ride height I change the shims and true the tires. Now after posting my question I changed everything on the front end just to make sure that I don't have any of the parts bent or broken. Unfortunately this didn't fix the problem that I'm having. I also tried to measure from on top of the axel like the TC cars for droop and it's equal. My ride height is 3.8 front and rear on the left side of the car. It's 3.6 on the front and 3.2 on the rear on the right side of the car. As for the Left and Right sides the car's front end is facing you.
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Old 08-07-2010, 01:38 AM   #34138
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Originally Posted by tiko View Post
I'm new to 1/12th scale and to RC racing in general. On the 12R5 I don't think that the front end is adjustable (I could be wrong on this though maybe someone that has the same car and a little more experience could answer that question). To change the ride height I change the shims and true the tires. Now after posting my question I changed everything on the front end just to make sure that I don't have any of the parts bent or broken. Unfortunately this didn't fix the problem that I'm having. I also tried to measure from on top of the axel like the TC cars for droop and it's equal. My ride height is 3.8 front and rear on the left side of the car. It's 3.6 on the front and 3.2 on the rear on the right side of the car. As for the Left and Right sides the car's front end is facing you.
That sounds like you have one incorrect rear ride height spacer in the car (two different axles offsets)
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Old 08-07-2010, 01:45 AM   #34139
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
That sounds like you have one incorrect rear ride height spacer in the car (two different axles offsets)
The rear axle spacers are the same size I checked it ten times. Also if it wasn't the axle wont rotate properly. I tried that too.
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Old 08-07-2010, 02:12 AM   #34140
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Have you tried loosening and retorquing all the rear pod screws? Check the lower pod plate for flat?
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