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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-24-2010, 10:17 PM   #34096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer View Post
Rear Ride Height Adjusters

It's time to move on

So instead of using the plastic insert we need a design that does away with them so we can adjust the ride height in the rear without having to change the insert for different tyre sizes and keeps the wheel base the same length.

get your think caps on

maybe one for Jason at BMI

or has this been tried & tested and found not to work?
I have only just started racing 12th so I don't know the specifics of most chassis but on the CRC you loosen and remove the left rear wheel with one bolt, remove the entire axle, change the spacers, put the axle back in, and put the rear left wheel back on and tighten. This takes all of 2mins and you can have ride height within 0.25mm with all the optional spacer sets. I can't see how you could make it any easier. Compared to my TC I have to adjust springs and then check tweak to make sure I got the springs even which is far more work than my 12th.
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Old 07-24-2010, 11:00 PM   #34097
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did you forget to check droop also? it changes with sedan ride height too
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Old 07-25-2010, 08:55 PM   #34098
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I have a brand new 2400KV brushless motor similar to the 380 size motors. I'm looking to trade for a brushless ESC P.M. me if interested.
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Old 07-26-2010, 01:28 AM   #34099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
I have only just started racing 12th so I don't know the specifics of most chassis but on the CRC you loosen and remove the left rear wheel with one bolt, remove the entire axle, change the spacers, put the axle back in, and put the rear left wheel back on and tighten. This takes all of 2mins and you can have ride height within 0.25mm with all the optional spacer sets. I can't see how you could make it any easier. Compared to my TC I have to adjust springs and then check tweak to make sure I got the springs even which is far more work than my 12th.
Same for 99.9% of 12th chassis

I just want to change the tyres, then adjust the ride height using a sliding gate adjuster. No faffing with bearings, ride height inserts, forgetting to put the shims back on etc
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Old 07-27-2010, 03:09 AM   #34100
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Xenon rear ride height adjusters

they come in 0.25mm increments

anyone sell them in the USA?

scroll down the page and look for Axle hight adapter for Associated 12L4

http://www.xenon.ne.jp/english-index.html
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Old 07-27-2010, 07:03 AM   #34101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer View Post
Xenon rear ride height adjusters

they come in 0.25mm increments

anyone sell them in the USA?

scroll down the page and look for Axle hight adapter for Associated 12L4

http://www.xenon.ne.jp/english-index.html
Most of us here in the states use IRS ones.

http://ashfordhobby.com/SearchResult...yWords=IRS1167
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Old 07-27-2010, 07:49 AM   #34102
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Speedtech do

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...?catmainid=485

most of out of stock
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Old 07-27-2010, 08:59 AM   #34103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Most of us here in the states use IRS ones.

http://ashfordhobby.com/SearchResult...yWords=IRS1167
we do in the UK but there like rocking horse poo at the moment

Quote:
Originally Posted by revsinc View Post
$3.99 ouch = $64 a set + shipping to the UK

Last edited by radio_car_racer; 07-27-2010 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 07-27-2010, 10:32 AM   #34104
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I like the Hot Bodies adjusters. Cheap and come in .25 increments too. THere are two part numbers to get the entire set however. 1 for the whole numbers 1,2,3 and another for all the others. They don't all the way to 3.2 like the IRS ones do though. Only 2.5 I think...

I started using them when I saw them on Naoto and Hayato's cars in Vegas last year.
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Old 07-28-2010, 12:58 PM   #34105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RacinJ View Post
I've been running for quite some time with slightly puffed SMC's. One pack is definitely shorter on runtime then the other.

Who has the best 1S packs? I'd like feedback on runtime and durability.
I would like to know the same. My SMC pack looks like a football now. The swell seems to effect the performance. It just seem so very flat. So now I am shopping for a new battery. What about the CRC red batteries?
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Old 07-28-2010, 02:41 PM   #34106
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how does battery placement affect track performace?
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Old 07-28-2010, 03:02 PM   #34107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark506 View Post
how does battery placement affect track performace?
Forward = more stable

Rear= more steering.
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:10 AM   #34108
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What about the CRC red batteries?
I've got a CRC red case battery, but the carpet track has been too dirty to really get a good run in on it yet since we're racing outdoors at the moment. Been strong for what little running I have done with it so far though.

May not be a concern to you, but it isn't 100% balanced left-right, it's slightly heavier on the end opposite of the battery connections. Hasn't been an issue for me, just something to be aware of.
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:41 AM   #34109
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Guy's small Question:

What Receiver Bat's do you prever?
Which do you think are the best?

Best Regards

Robert
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Old 07-29-2010, 02:15 AM   #34110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
I've got a CRC red case battery, but the carpet track has been too dirty to really get a good run in on it yet since we're racing outdoors at the moment. Been strong for what little running I have done with it so far though.

May not be a concern to you, but it isn't 100% balanced left-right, it's slightly heavier on the end opposite of the battery connections. Hasn't been an issue for me, just something to be aware of.
I think you will find all 1s lipo's will not be completely symmetrical. There is empty space between the bullet connectors where the other end is solid. Even a deans lipo will have one end lighter because of the lipo tabs and wires not being as heavy as solid cells on the other end.
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